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  #631  
Old 22-07-19, 02:29
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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More wiring
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  #632  
Old 22-07-19, 14:09
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Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default From notes-

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
This past week I have been working away on the front harness.

One question I do have. Do I have the green wires on my drawing correct? That power comes off that circuit overload piece and then the wires split into 6 individual wires going to the inspection lamp socket, dash lamp switch, tail lamp switch, tail/side switch, tail/side/headlamp switch and stop isolation switch?
Hi Jordan

From my notes the green wires in the drawing match my HUP.

But I'm not sure of the stop isolation switch, as I wired that switch different and added a turns signal flasher and a warning light which turned the function of that switch into rear hazard flasher. Brake light always works when peddle is pressed, dash warning light comes on. If the brake isolation switch is thrown, power goes to through the flasher causing the brake lights and the dash warning light to flash. If the brake peddle is pushed the brake light come on.

Your work is so neat, and nicely layed out.

Cheers Phil
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Last edited by Phil Waterman; 22-07-19 at 14:14. Reason: add information
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  #633  
Old 22-07-19, 14:19
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Hi Phil

Thanks for the on my wiring plan.

You wouldn’t happen to remember how you wired in the flasher for rear hazard lights do you? I didnt see it on your hand drawn wiring diagram on your website.
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Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
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Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
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  #634  
Old 22-07-19, 21:57
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Default Will dig out my noted on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jordan Baker View Post
........

You wouldn’t happen to remember how you wired in the flasher for rear hazard lights do you? I didnt see it on your hand drawn wiring diagram on your website.
Yes I will dig out the notes on it, won't be able to do it until next week as I'm leaving for the Weare Summer Rally which is this week, in the morning.

The change to the wiring is real simple, boils down running continous power to the preasure switch then using the stop light isolation switch to provide blink power to the light side of the pressure switch.

Cheers Phil
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  #635  
Old 24-07-19, 04:02
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The other day I made up the oil pressure gauge line after getting some photos from Rob. I added the asphalt loom to a couple of sections of the tubing to protect it from rubbing against the steering bracket and the harness rubbing on it.
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Otter LRC
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Willys MB, 1942
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  #636  
Old 25-07-19, 05:31
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This evenings task was to make up a few of the brass oil line adaptor blocks.
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Willys MB, 1942
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  #637  
Old 26-07-19, 02:35
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I didnít have much time in the shop today. However I managed to make up the mounting brackets for the oil line adaptors. Now I just need to make up the hard lines.
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  #638  
Old 29-07-19, 03:38
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Hard oil lines made up today. The flaring tool from Eastwood sure makes these job easy.
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Otter LRC
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Willys MB, 1942
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  #639  
Old 29-07-19, 03:50
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Lastly for tonight. Iíve got a couple of the electrical filters. I know where the small regulator filter mounts. However where does the larger one go? It was in a box of miscellaneous parts that came with the truck when I first got it years ago. Iím wondering if it mounts on the cab frame right below where all the wires and such go to the dash. Iíve got an extra set of holes there and the holes match up.
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Otter LRC
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
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Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
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  #640  
Old 29-07-19, 16:43
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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I found mine originally in the location you spotted!
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  #641  
Old 29-07-19, 17:50
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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That was fast, Harry!

Now all you have to sort, Jordan, is the correct orientation.

David
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  #642  
Old 07-09-19, 02:54
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Well I managed to get the wiring all done. Everything checks out using an ohm meter making sure no shorts. The only issue I had was my fuel gauge had an open ground between the two prongs on the back and the case. This was causing my lighting circuits to be open with the grounding of the truck. I ended up taking the gauge right apart and replacing the two rubber grommets inside the case and the two on the holding clip. This fixed the issue.

Today I finally got around to cleaning up the oil filter. I also made up a set of the special standoff bolts.
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
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Willys MB, 1942
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  #643  
Old 07-09-19, 03:54
Bruce Parker Bruce Parker is offline
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Jordan, wouldn't the oil filter can be black?
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  #644  
Old 07-09-19, 05:34
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From what Iíve researched there where a few different ones. The early ones were light grey. The later ones were simply satin black. This one, once all the grime was removed was shiny olive drab that had been over painted in flaking black paint. The decals were just visible.
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  #645  
Old 27-09-19, 03:27
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After a two week break to take part in the 30th Corps LTF Holland trip I was back at it today in the shop. I finally managed to get the oil filter mount installed. I ended up cutting as small as possible but out to clear the steam fitting. Next up will be getting the hoses made up.

I also installed NOS breather nipples on the axles. The old ones had seen better days.
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Willys MB, 1942
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  #646  
Old 27-09-19, 09:18
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Hi Jordan,
Looking through this thread again and perhaps I missed it, but did you cover the carburettor?
Did I see the engine had a Rochester fitted but it changed in one of the engine photos. Am interested because I am looking for carburettor options for the HUP 216 engine.
Thanks
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1943 Chevrolet C60s Wrecker;
1944 Chevrolet C8a HUP ZL-2
1944 Willys MB (British Guards Armoured Div);
1944 BSA Folding Bicycle (Best "Para Bike" at War&Peace Show 2011, 2012, 2014 and 2015);
Trailer, 10cwt, Water Lightweight, 100gallon;
Trailer, 10cwt, Cargo Lightweight 10cwt No1 MkII;
Trailer, 10cwt, Electrical Repair Mk.2; Ex-Airborne REME;
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  #647  
Old 27-09-19, 14:08
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Hi John.

The engine I got for my truck was a late model 216. It came with a Rochester carb on it. However I added all the wartime parts from my wartime 216 and then found a Carter carb for it via eBay.
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
Universal Carrier MKI*, 1942
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Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
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  #648  
Old 27-09-19, 19:16
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Default 216 Carburettor

Thanks Jordan,

Which Carter was it? Looks similar to one on my MB.

I currently have an old YF on the HUP but we were looking at whether there is a more modern Carburettor option that anyone has fitted to the 216.
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1943 Chevrolet C60s Wrecker;
1944 Chevrolet C8a HUP ZL-2
1944 Willys MB (British Guards Armoured Div);
1944 BSA Folding Bicycle (Best "Para Bike" at War&Peace Show 2011, 2012, 2014 and 2015);
Trailer, 10cwt, Water Lightweight, 100gallon;
Trailer, 10cwt, Cargo Lightweight 10cwt No1 MkII;
Trailer, 10cwt, Electrical Repair Mk.2; Ex-Airborne REME;
Trailer, 10cwt, Lightweight, Electric Welding Mk 2
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  #649  
Old 05-10-19, 01:52
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John I used a Carter W1. Iím not sure what specific model within the W1 family though. However it seems to be working just fine.

Today I refinished the oil bath air filter. I ended up stripping all the paint off due to the the number of scratches in it. Once repainted I gave it a decal. The decals I had were peel and stick so I masked it off and sprayed some clear coat over it to replicate the original water slide decal.

I also added a decal to the smaller engine air filter as well.
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  #650  
Old 07-10-19, 20:40
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default So nice an clean......

....how long will it last?????

Driving mine over very rough bumps...... maybe got daylight under the front tires..... the oil in the "normally" filled air cleaner spills out over the manifold ...on the inside engine cover.....and every staple hole in the engine cover now has a oil stain visible on the passenger side foot well.

Therefore....... after consulting on the Stovebolt forum.... I plan on using and older complete period 216 air filter and replacing the inside with a suitable corrugated paper filter...... it will be a Winter project with many trial and error to find the proper off the shelf paper element. Once completed I can sandblast the housing, repaint and install new decal stickers...... should have NO external difference visible but still filter adequately.

nice and beautiful has its price.

Cheers
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  #651  
Old 07-10-19, 21:56
Harry Moon Harry Moon is offline
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Default Air cleaner

after a couple of tries I found the CA146 to be thne best fit and doesn't need any modifications.
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  #652  
Old 07-10-19, 22:04
rob love rob love is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
. should have NO external difference visible but still filter adequately.

I would suggest it would filter better, not adequately. The grooves/scoring that I have seen on the bores of motors using oil bath filters is often incredible. I have never seen such damage on a paper filtered engine.
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  #653  
Old 08-10-19, 20:02
James P James P is offline
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While there are those who are slaves to original (and I was also at one time) dry paper air filters are the way to go, all my vehicles are dry and never going back to oil bath filters.
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  #654  
Old 17-10-19, 15:43
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Yesterdayís work. Started in on the nose of the truck. The nose is actually in quite nice shape. Years ago when I first got the truck Barry Churcher offered to fix the one headlight bucket for me. His guy did a fantastic job. Iím very much appreciative of that work. Now itís finally time to finish off some minor metal work then a sandblast, prime and paint. The main fix is to remake the inner shroud and fix a previous poorly done repair by a previous owner. Sadly at some point in its life the shroud was torch cut down making it now unusable. I also need to replace a few of the captive nuts as they were too far rusted. New ones are already on order.
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  #655  
Old 17-10-19, 15:45
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The inner shroud removed.

Does anyone have some drawings or measurements of one? I obviously have some measurements but not for where it was cut down.
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  #656  
Old 18-10-19, 23:36
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Removing the one bad panel from the nose. A rather poorly done previous repair was the main reason. Globs and globs of brazing with an ugly seam across a flat panel is not a repair. The air hammer made quick work of the wartime spot welds. I also picked up new steel today for making a replacement panel and the air shroud.
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Otter LRC
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Willys MB, 1942
Dodge D23c, 1942
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  #657  
Old 23-10-19, 00:44
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Yesterday I cutout and made up the replacement nose floor panel. I also picked up the nose, hood, grill and brush bar from the sandblasters. I started painting the POR15 on the nose. With all the seams, I decided to hand paint so I could ensure that POR got into them. Spraying would have been difficult trying to fit my sprayer in.
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  #658  
Old 23-10-19, 14:31
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Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Tie Coat ?

Hi Jordan


My experience, several years ago, with POR15 as a base coat was that had to have the special Tie Coat primer used over it to get primer and top coat to stick. But now when I check the Por15 web site https://www.por15.com/All-Products-Category does not show it. So I'm left to wonder if they have changed product? Will watch with interest how you proceed.


Cheers Phil
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  #659  
Old 23-10-19, 14:38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Waterman View Post
Hi Jordan


My experience, several years ago, with POR15 as a base coat was that had to have the special Tie Coat primer used over it to get primer and top coat to stick. But now when I check the Por15 web site https://www.por15.com/All-Products-Category does not show it. So I'm left to wonder if they have changed product? Will watch with interest how you proceed.


Cheers Phil
They still make it. Just changed names to High Build Primer. Still uses the same part number.

https://www.por15.com/POR-15-High-Build-Primer
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  #660  
Old 23-10-19, 14:55
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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I think POR have renamed several of their products recently:
Tie Coat Primer became High Build Primer
Chassis Coat became Top Coat DTM Chassis Black
Prep and Ready became Metal Prep
Maybe more name changes to confuse me....
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