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  #1  
Old 23-07-04, 03:14
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Pin up pictures...

Decided to start a new thread on the shackle pins for the C15a....

...are they the same for Ford and Chev????

....this particular model doesn't seem to be made anymore.... but I am still searching.....

Would Dirk or Brian have some....?

I ahve included some pictures... the pin in the foreground is not showing substantial wear and can be re-used.... the back on his worn out on one half... which ever half carried the weight all the time to the extent that the grease groove has been erased...

So far I have had to price quotes from machine shops who claim that annealing... rebuilding... machining...re-hardening.... would be more expensive than making new ones... and no guarantee that some pins will not crack due to the hollow design of the grease channel.....

Fo newly made pins.....one shop quote $45...small town rural area the other big commercial shop wants $65 per pin and I need at least 8.......

Fall back is to start taking apart the other parts CMP frame and hope to find some salvageable pins......

Suggestions, advice, anybody been there?? .....comments are welcome.

pic attached......
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resize of resize of hpim1535abc.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 23-07-04, 05:58
Wayne Henderson Wayne Henderson is offline
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Default replacement pins

Hi Bob,
I have done a pin replacment on 2 different Chevs. The first on a CGT and I had all new pins made up by a machinist friend.

Hardening and annealing etc is fine if you want to send your truck back off to war but is not nessesary if you use quality steel. The down side is the pins may only last about 60 years. Make sure the cotter pins are tight.

The idea is that the softer phos/bronze bushes wear first and not the pins. The wear on the pins happens when the bushes wear out through to the leaf eye (we've all see this) causing rapid damage. Bushes are still available in Australia (Coventrys) using the existing Chev part number.

With the second truck, "Lumpy" a C15A, I used the best pins I could find out of a heap of spares I had but used new bushes in the leaf spring eyes.
Some pins were only slightly worn, some like new and the rooted ones get thrown at next doors dog when it jumps my fence.

I think Ford ones are the same but you wouldn't want to ruin a good Chev.
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Old 23-07-04, 20:57
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Pins.....

Thanks Wayne

The one shop asking for $45 per pin intends to use induction hardened stock....... I get your point about wear rate...after all it took them 64 years to wear down... with plenty of grease I should make mine last for a while.....LOL

On my truck the pins are particularly worn in the area of the eye of the leaf spring.... the spring bushings are a bit oval but not cut to the leaf springs as I have seen on other trucks.... and the spring shop that will re-arc the springs will replace the bushings with new ones and ream them out to size of the new pins.....

This weekend will be spent hunting for salvageable pins from my other truck frames....... then I will decide how many to have made.

Bob C.
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  #4  
Old 24-07-04, 00:46
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Barry Churcher Barry Churcher is offline
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Default

Hi Bob
I am pretty sure that Dirk has them. I could be wrong but it wouldn't hurt to ask him. He phoned me today from Beltring, the lucky sod. He won't be back to Holland till the middle of the week
probably.
Barry
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  #5  
Old 24-07-04, 04:13
greg anderson (RIP) greg anderson (RIP) is offline
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Default pins

If I were faced with your problem I would look into getting some drill rod which is available from metal dealers in various sizes but is easily machined and would serve well without tempering-- I keep a bit on hand here for my own use
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Old 26-07-04, 17:24
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Follow up on pinups.....

Thanks for the information Barry and Gregg

I took out five pins this weekend and 4 where badly worn and one marginal...... and of course one would not move out after slipping out about one inch....no matter what I did so I drove it back in.

I have discovered that the best pins with the less wear seems to be the upper shackle pin at the back of the assembly.... the fornt one and the lower rear pin in the shackle seem to have more movement and wear out faster.

....on the plus side I have the engine installed on a test bed and managed to install the bellhousing easily but clutch was a different story....but on the 3 attempt I got it right.

Possibly because I am using a larger 11 inch clutch I could not install the shifting fork after the clutch was in...so down it went again.. in went the fork.....and back with the clutch. Having a spare input shaft made the job a lot easier.

Starting to look good with the manifolds in place....water pump and large 261 thermo housing installed.

Took advantage of the cooler weather to wear the sandblasting hood and finished blasting the frame.

Next week we paint and start on rebuilding the tranny..

...and I am seriously considering getting the pins done at the machine shop....... he is now talking $40 a pin if I do 8...... decisions ...decisions....
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  #7  
Old 26-07-04, 21:34
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Default Re: Follow up on pinups.....

Quote:
Originally posted by Bob C.
...and I am seriously considering getting the pins done at the machine shop....... he is now talking $40 a pin if I do 8...... decisions ...decisions....
Bob, although I must admit (confess?) I'm not into Chevy's, I would be highly surprised if there isn't a source for these. Someone in Canada or the US must have either NOS or repro's - I can't believe they were such a speciality item.

Someone on this forum must know, check the old threads, I remember several (online) sources for Chevy parts being mentioned quite recently.

Good luck with your decisions and post some more pics of your progress!

H.
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  #8  
Old 27-07-04, 02:48
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default running out of time....

I agree with you Hanno most of the early models were manufactured with "off the shelf" stock so the CMP shackle pin is probably identical to some other 1939 truck model.

One problem is that they built these truck with oversize parts probably from a 3 or even 5 ton stock truck parts....but... all suppliers that I have been in touch with in the USA tend to carry the high demand parts for 1/2...3/4 and some 1 ton pick up that are being done as hot rod.... in fact most of the fancy rebuilt trucks in the USA have only the body shell mostly with modern suspensions...... Ther are some extensive "interchange manuals" avaialble at the library to compare one part number to a series of truck model it migth fit on but no dimensions or pictures.

The best source so far was the Malmberg spring shop in Ottawa... they have manuals with pictures and dimensions for all kind... well almost all kinds because we could not find the CMP ones....

I got my engine back and need to have wheels on the frame to re-install the engine....... I know I will not finish the truck for Winter.... my target is to have the complete power train done so I can wheel it in or out of the barn before the snow comes..... brrrr I am cold already..... It is almost a whole year since I started the dissassembly...and it will probably this time next year before I can legally drive it on the street........ It is a lot more work than I ever imagined.....but she will be a beauty!!!!!

As luck will have it someone will find 500 NOS pins at $2.00 each the day I get mine back from the machine shop.....

Stay tuned.....
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  #9  
Old 05-08-04, 05:43
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default The last chapter...

I gave up and got myself 8 new pins made .........drilled ...tapped....polished...and hardened.......

at $45 dollars Cdn they better be good........ similar truck pins at the spring shop range from $20 to 35.....

Now I can have the spring packs re-arced and new brass bushing installed and reamed to match the pins.

On to the next headache.....

Bob C.
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