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#31
08-02-10, 15:12
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Tire press tool
One more shot of it under construction, three of the finished tool. We haven't yet made a second cross arm for 20" rims/tires but we can't think of any reason it shouldn't work just as well.
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#32
08-02-10, 15:19
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The tool in use and the finished result
Now that most of the learning curve is behind us, the next tires should be faster to process. We plan to pay attention to having two set up in each direction so that Bob can make a matching set of either "open end touches first" or "point of V touches first" or random to simulate "spare was put on and no-one cared which part touched first. If anyone is wondering what the yellow arrow on one arm signifies, it is because the arms line up more smoothly in one orientation than any other.
Last edited by Grant Bowker; 08-02-10 at 15:24. Reason: edited to explain the arrow.
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#33
08-02-10, 19:45
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I'll have to add your new tool to my tool page
Hi Guys
Well that tool sure looks like it fits the bill given the hole size on the rims is the same I agree that it should work with either 16 or 20 inch rims. Looks like if you turn the crosses around so the bead blocks face out you then use the rig to pull the two wheel half's together. Get out your steel marking stamps and punch a part number on along with CMP Tire Mounting Clamp or some other suitable descriptor. Just for the hell of it date it 1942 and if you can put the broad arrow on it just to screw somebodies head in 20 years. I had used a pair of large C-clamps but I must admit to having bent one of them in the process, to much force. Your tool also looks like it will help save the studs and nuts from being overloaded. How about a picture of it in uses the next tire you mount. Now I see the added picture with it in use, great. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com Last edited by Phil Waterman; 08-02-10 at 19:52. Reason: saw added picture, additional thought
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#34
08-02-10, 20:42
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Quote:
How about a YouTube video?
__________________
Those who live by the sword will be shot by those of us who have progressed. - M38A1, 67-07800, ex LETE
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#35
08-02-10, 22:26
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We are holding off for a Hollywood contract....
Next tire will set up a tripod and do a step by step photo shoot....... we were to eager to make it work this time.
I don't think we move fast enough for UTube....!!!!! Boob
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#36
08-02-10, 22:41
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U-Boob
Quote:
__________________
RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#37
08-02-10, 22:51
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Patent pending..??
Quote:
Looks good .. Probably sell a few ..but who has so many CMP's that they would need one..?? But at $6 million a copy ..maybe..   
__________________
Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk:
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#38
15-03-10, 16:40
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Barn Update
It is hard to believe that there have been no postings from the barn since early February. So, it is time for an update. Three additions made their way to the barn in the recent past.
The first is my heavily modified C15 dump truck. It has a well done post-war modification that shortened its frame and has civilian pattern dual rims on back. The dump body will be removed and will be used to store our scrap metal. The engine will be assessed and eventually reused. The cab, sheet metal and bolt ons are in good condition and will be donor parts for other barn projects. The other two additions will now allow us to cut and bend sheet metal for body work. A metal shearing machine and a metal brake now adorn the barn floor. Bob and Grant welded up some rolling metal frames for the new machines and they are now easily transportable. On one of my all too few visits, Bob and I tested his spot welder. We put together replacement lips for my HUP's large sliding hatch. Our first attempt produced varied but useful results. New tips are being ordered so that we can get a little closer to the bends. The barn was a very quiet place this past weekend as everyone was busy with other priorities. Just as well, the big melt is on and the grounds are very wet. Hopefully things will dry out this coming week.
__________________
RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#39
15-03-10, 16:44
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You Guys
Looks like you are setting up for some serious parts reproduction efforts with the new equipment on hand. What are the projects for the near future?
Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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#40
15-03-10, 16:52
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Projects
Quote:
Bob is putting together his doors for his Cab 11. I am not sure what Grant is up to. I am starting work on the Protoype HUP. The rear doors are in poor condition with the bottom sills and horizontal surfaces being extremely rusty. So I will be watching Bob and learning from his cutting and bending experiences. Next step for me is to remove the roof from the Prototype and to weld it into a jig. Unlike my 45 HUP, the Prototype's roof can be salvaged. There will be a lot of cutting and welding to do along the drip edges and other rusted out places, but we now have all the necessary tools to do most of the body work - as long as it is 16 ga or thinner metal... There is no shortage of things to do in Hammond. You can see our progress if you happen to stop in for BBB.
__________________
RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#41
16-03-10, 03:55
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Nice to see the 16 Ga shear and metal brake
Quote:
I will have to bring out some Iltis repair panels and use them to make up other parts that I need for restoration. Nice thing about the Iltis is many of the body panel parts are square, so can be made up. Last year I made up some muffler heat shields. I had the 16 Ga steel cut locally and used the metal brake at Algonquin College to put in the bends. I used the old muffler heat shields as a template and drilled the holes. (I guess I should post images) One item I have to make up for the Iltis is some gas tank straps. Easy job using 18 Ga mild steel to make the strips. Then cut out some sections and spot weld using MIG welder. Keep me in mind for some MIG welding. I need the practice..... Cheers! Stuart
__________________
Deep in the Cold War Bunker of Doom
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#42
16-03-10, 17:12
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Sheet metal......
Hi Stu
Will bend backwards to accommodate you...... do drop in..... I am now working on the skins for the cab11/12 doors..... also inner skin panels for the cab...... everything that was touching the arches or near the floor was rusted and very "Holy"...... some can be patched but it is almost easier to replace the whole panel. Now we can bend, shape and spot weld.... Mig is always there for the bigger jobs. I am still working with the large .035 wire/gas but will switch to the lighter .025 wire/gas for the thin gauge sheet metal..... and practice.... The welder needs to have the polarity changed inside before I can use the small wire..... can't figure out why but it as to be done. I might even practice doing gas butt welds..... difficult but very precise if you do not constantly burn holes in the metal.....Like Stu says....practice... especially perfect practice does give perfect results. I also have to do the rear cab skin..... including bending the angle iron according to Phil's documented process.... may use some of the new metal glue to attach center ribs as the spot welder can't reach that deep. Eventually will build a "rotisserie" ( at least one any ways) to facilitate the reverse engineering of the 2B1 cargo box. That will no doubt necessitate using the large HD pan box brake at the fabricator or his large hydraulic bending press..... the largest gauge on the box is 11 gauge..... most of it is 14 gauge. The problem with the cargo box is that some sections are 90 + inches long and even a modest 12 gauge pan box brake at $4000 can only handle 48 inches. ....but we are having fun..... Boob
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#43
16-03-10, 18:43
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Butt welding practice
Quote:
I will see if I can make a copy of the DVD for educational purposes for the Hammond Barn library...... Cheers! Stuart
__________________
Deep in the Cold War Bunker of Doom
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#44
16-03-10, 20:10
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Flattened copper pipe has limited heat absorbtion capability. How do I know? By burning through some while filling in rust perforated inner fenders on my cab 13 floor. If you are working on flat surfaces, 1/4" copper plate works better as a heat sink. There are a few pieces at the barn but if you want some for your home welding shop take a look at Cohen's on Merivale Rd. or if that doesn't fit your needs check the Metal Supermarket on Sheffield Rd. (soon to become Superior Metals - they are not renewing their franchise agreement - same location and phone numbers as at present).
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#45
16-03-10, 21:17
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Brass Door Kick Plates Work Nice As Heat Sinks
Hi Grant & Bob
I use odd bits of brass as well as copper as back up for but welds or for filling spots. Got some of those really heavy old brass kick plates from a school must be close to 1/8th thick. Make really good heat sinks if they are clamped tight behind a weld on thin sheet metal. Have a friend that uses wet toilet paper on either side when he is welding light gauge sheet metal. Same guy gas welds M151 back together with old coat hangers says it's the best match he has found for the grade steel used in the bodies, makes you wonder. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com
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#46
17-03-10, 21:15
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Toilet paper....?
Phil we weld sheet metal...... sheeet metal not sh*t metal.....
I found some old printers copper plate at a surplus yard...for Government letter head no less........1/4 inch thick and about 3 x 7 inches..... buss bars from large electrical panels are also nice to use.... It is amazing to weld a bolt hole shut and nothing sticks to the copper.... I have stiched many rusted exhaust pipes with coat hangers over the years but find that the more modern version are lighter gauge/size and crappy steel they used to be just varnished or coated with a schellac to keep them from rusting.... now they are painted and it seems to mess up the welds. Do you have pictures of your cab 12 in muddy holes showing of the traction of CMP....? Boob
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#47
17-03-10, 23:14
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Stuart,
Here are some of my thoughts on MIG welding. Hope that they may be of help to you  1. Always check what lies behind the proposed patch panel ie will it burn!!!!! Is there a fuel line or electrical wiring looms. 2. Prepare the joints to ensure that you are welding clean metal, Any contaminants in the weld pool will either weaken the join or blow out while you are welding like a mini volcano! 3. Keep the joint width between 0.5 to 1mm 4. Use 0.6/0.8mm dia wire with your smaller Mig welders. Having said that my thoughts on MIG welders are the bigger the better. Small MIG welders are fine but the bigger welders have more OOMPH! 5. If possible try to avoid using flux cored wire. 6. With patch panels don't try and weld in continuous seams, spot here then move away and place a spot there. Continue staggering your spotting until the join is filled-This takes more time but will help dissipate the heat and minimize your patch panel and parent metal from heat distortion. Remember HEAT is your enemy. A good cup of Tea or Coffee can be enjoyed many times 7. Use heavier gauge metal ie 1.2mm or at a pinch 1.6mm (than your parent metal)to make your patch from. This will help you to start your weld without blowing a hole in the joint. Looks no different on the outside. 8. Use sunscreen on exposed parts of your skin as MIG welders have a tendency to burn your skin with excellent results.  Better still try to cover all exposed parts of your body.9. I know it is hard but try to weld with elbow length gauntlets (Leather gloves). I am sure experienced welders at some time in the past have grabbed a hot bit of metal with their bare hands by mistake. OUCH! 10. If you can borrow an auto darkening helmet, do so. Good for tak welding. 11. Buy yourself a cheap Chinese angle grinder but always use good quality cutting and grinding discs. Use the very thin section cutting discs. As always use PPE (Eye protection and hearing defenders) 12. When grinding off the finished welds try not to use excessive force to speed up the removal of excess weld. All you will do is create heat with the end result being metal distortion. Once you have leveled the ground surface, get hold of a flapper disc to further smooth the surface. 13. Paint/prime the exposed metal as soon as possible to prevent corrosion. 14. The point of a screw driver is a very good tool for probing around the affected area to try and determine the extent of rust damage. Once you have cut the rust out of a particular area, then and only then is when you will know where to start your repairs. Don't rush the job Good luck Cheers John Wilson
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#48
18-03-10, 20:16
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Slack employee...
Quote:
Get down to Gracies tonight for some T.A.(Trade Advancement).. Just released today.. Quote:
__________________
Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk:
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#49
18-03-10, 21:46
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Junk Status
Quote:
__________________
RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#50
18-03-10, 21:58
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Quote:
__________________
SUNRAY SENDS AND ENDS :remember :support
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#51
19-03-10, 16:36
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Aaaah Yes.....
I shall keep my eyes wide open for that.....
Good thing I have a big cargo box on the truck to haul things back..... BooB
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#52
22-03-10, 20:33
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My Iltis was finally recovered on Sunday and is now at the Hammond Farm. I must once again thank Bob and Grant for all of their help and their time throughout the day. It is highly appreciated!
__________________
Richard Law
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#53
23-03-10, 12:43
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Fpr those who've wondered what we've been doing...
We've been working on a lot of small parts. Individually they don't look like much, for example building a new hold down clip for a chorehorse mounting plate to replace one that the rust worm had eaten, but they take time and when they start to be assembled into larger groups look more impressive.
The most recent challenge was helping corrupt one of the younger generation (sorry, introduce one of the youth to the wonderful world of MV collecting). A quick recovery was undertaken for Richard Law to move his Iltis from the previous owner's yard to the Barn. The trailer that was part of the deal is to follow.
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#54
29-03-10, 03:39
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One more Iltis running
Quote:
Richard was itching to take the Iltis for a spin, so it was off to one of the fields. The road in could be described as slightly damp. Seeing the water, mud and spinning tires was lots of fun. I knew there was a chance we would end up playing in the mud and water, so I wore my rubber "poggie boots"". Hopefully some pictures will be posted. Bob, I washed off my Iltis when I got home, and saved about 5-10 pounds of dirt I collected from your field, that I will bring back for the BBQ. Cheers! Stuart
__________________
Deep in the Cold War Bunker of Doom
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#55
30-03-10, 17:44
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So where are the pictures Clive...?
We now have proof...Iltis do get stuck !!!!
Boob
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada
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#56
30-03-10, 21:16
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Stuck Truck
Quote:
__________________
RHC Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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#57
31-03-10, 01:26
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Sunday was a beautiful day for a drive - only a so-so day for getting stick in the mud however.
Richard and I got there first and he topped jup the tank with some fresh gas as the old stuff had been sitting for at least 8 months.  The batteries were both dead so, when Stuart arrived, we towed the Iltis to a spot closer to Mecca - I mean, the barn. 
__________________
Those who live by the sword will be shot by those of us who have progressed. - M38A1, 67-07800, ex LETE
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#58
31-03-10, 01:31
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After charging the batteries we were (almost) certain that the Iltis would start up if it stalled, Richard had his first chance to get behind the wheel and try it out since he bought it at Christmas. I got in to provide ballast.
 We ran through a couple of mud holes but, on the way back to Mecca - I mean, the barn - we got stuck up to the axles. Fortunately, Booby and his trusty tractor towed us out. In order to ensure that the Law name didn't die out I let Richard continue without me as passenger. 
__________________
Those who live by the sword will be shot by those of us who have progressed. - M38A1, 67-07800, ex LETE Last edited by servicepub (RIP); 31-03-10 at 01:43.
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#59
31-03-10, 01:34
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Thanks to Bob for moral support, towing service, gratuitous advice, almost funny commentary and generally fulfilling his host role. Special thanks to Stuart for coming out and showing Richard and I all sorts of things about the Uglis - I mean, Iltis.
Here is Stuart's baby. 
__________________
Those who live by the sword will be shot by those of us who have progressed. - M38A1, 67-07800, ex LETE Last edited by servicepub (RIP); 31-03-10 at 01:43.
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#60
31-03-10, 02:08
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First Iltis mud bath
Quote:
My 85 Iltis also enjoyed doing what it does best, playing in the dirt (wet and dry)..........  [Cheers! Stuart
__________________
Deep in the Cold War Bunker of Doom
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