Tranny ex-spurt needed.....

[Bob Carriere]

Need help form the experienced tranny rebuilders.....

How do you take the darn tower apart....???

The manual..... may God bless Alex's little soul.... shows a special U shape tool that fits around the shifter.....says to press and turn left to release......

Ok now without the 1940 GM tool..... anyone knows a trick to remove without damaging the precious parts...... I will not promise like Jon my first born....... but a cold twelve pack if you promise to drink it at my place.....

I am into tranny number two.... the first was for practice... the second is my good one for the cab 11 which I wokred on after reading the manual..... may tare down another one to check for better gears...... mine were pitted somewhat on the lower quadrant. I do intend to replace all bearing if my trusted friend at Industrial Solution can source them as he did before.

I have taken mega pictures of the last teardown and will do the same for the reassembly...... God willing I will produce an article on the ins and out and will seduce Phil Waterman to make it available on his fantastic web site. Interesting to compare the early 1940 tranny and the late 45..... such as the speedometer access on the rear cover...... and different casting metal.

The early model the rear cover is made of white pot metal or some strange light alloy and is machined to take a spedometer gear... o n the later war models they are made of cast iron and the speedometer boss is not machine or drilled but left in the raw blank form........ did not keep the heavy cast iron from breaking when a yoke/U joint bolt worked loose..... an inherent weak design.......

Credit goes to Harry Moon of BC for first identifying this problem.

[Bob Carriere]

...sorry to quick on the submit button....

[Harry Moon]

Hi Bob
After lots of breakfree or similar product I just pushed down on the assemly at the bottom of the shifter shaft and twisted it counter clockwise. I used a big open jaw pair of plyers to do the twist while I pushed down with my fingers. only has to turn about half an inch and then the spring should push it up. The pliers should not squeeze to tight as it is a flimsy piece.
I see you have a broken tail shaft like I had on three of my 4 transmissions, make sure you read a back issue of convoy or an old post on this forum for the fix to prevent it from happening again..Hint, "the Ring"
Harry Moon

[Bob Carriere]

Nice to hear from you.......

Yes most of the spare trannies either have a broken rear cover or broken side ears in front.......

Just ordered new bearings for the tranny.... got the rear seal but will need a "Speedy sleeve" if I expect to keep the oil where it belongs.....

Did you noticed the different casting material used in the late to early years???? Any comments.... certainly the late cast steel were much more resistant....

Need to take a few top covers appart to develop some expertise.
I want to polish the shifting rods as most have rust build up...hoping that it will help me with the NO synchro shifts..... yeah I know double clutch.... but on a cab 11 you literaly need to open the door to double clutch... so I have big feet.....

In addition to the sleeve on the shaft I intend to use good lock nuts... not washers and possibly Lock tight...... almost like an accountant that wears a belt and suspenders.

Next I will be inspecting and possibly replace all the U-joints.....

Any leads on the rear engine mount bolt spring assembly.... possible substitute?????? valve springs are too large!!!

Bob C.

[Harry Moon]

I used a sealed front bearing to keep the oil from fowling the clutch on steep hills. Maybe thats more important were I live. LOL.
I removed the inner side cover of the new bearing to allow the tranny oil to lubricate it without letting it by the front .
I kept the part # somewhere but the bearing shop had no trouble finding one based on the old one being brought in.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Harry

will try to keep my cab 11 on mostly even ground......

Did the trick with Mooovit rustbreak..... now have the cap freed up and by coincidence now the shifting lever actually moves....

The large adjustable plumbers pliers will work but need a third hand..... namely Rob Clarke..... to push down while I twist... looks like I can do it without breaking anything....

Another questions...... of the 3 going on four tranny teardown the best gears found so far have some surface black marks.... telling me some rust has eaten into the case hardening of the cut gears... how critical is it???? what condition of gears did you have to play with???? it seems all tranny have some water build up inside evenif only from years of Winter/Summer condensation.

I am replacing all bearing to be on the safe side.

Who else has tranny rebuild expereince....Phil W.???

Bob C.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Another questions...... of the 3 going on four tranny teardown the best gears found so far have some surface black marks.... telling me some rust has eaten into the case hardening of the cut gears... how critical is it???? what condition of gears did you have to play with???? it seems all tranny have some water build up inside evenif only from years of Winter/Summer condensation...

Bob..
Back in my youth I rebuilt a few of those old flat head Ford gear boxes and as long as the gears had teeth ,they went in..
Slap some new bearings,new hypoid 90 and seals and stick her back in the truck...
For the amount of miles that truck will be driven,it will still be running at the second coming...
I remember changing a crown and pinion that the teeth on the pinion were actually razor sharp..but I wouldn't suggest you file the transmission teeth sharp,but if you filed your own pointy,you would be a big hit at BBB#2...