Info needed: Rotisserie

[maple_leaf_eh]

Gents:

My projects, funds, and talent are aligning this summer.

I've concluded it is neccesary to dismantle my M151A2 to have someone much more skilled with a welder than me, fix its rusted, dented and potentially unsafe panels. That someone has previously restored an M151A2, and is familiar with its construction techniques.

An amateur trades time for materials, while a professional trades materials for time. To keep my skilled craftsman productive, we agree that the body should go onto a rotisserie.

Does anyone in Eastern Ontario/West Quebec have an unused and safe body rotisserie? And yes, I've put out the call privately to a few people on MLU asking the same question. Others seem to have their rotisseries in use.

The alternative is buy a newly built one, use it for the time necessary and sell it on into car restoration hobby circles.

Terry

[Grant McCullough]

Hi Terry, once the diffs, and engine are out, the tub shouldn’t be too heavy.
I saw an ad in a British car magazine called Practicle Classics, made out of tubing that had been radiused. This tip over jig, made from 2x6’s and plywood has the same profile as the advertised steel tube job. Getting tubing bent shouldn’t pose too much trouble. Or maybe the wood job could work.

From the UK. The autovip car roller

https://autovip.uk/basic-car-roller/

And some wooden design of similar principle.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yuGf68o3tKY


Also found an ad for a custom rotisserie builder in Brantford his name is Stan
Tel 519-756-3817 prices starting at $1500

[maple_leaf_eh]

So, when I graduate to building a carrier, can I simply reuse these same 2x6s and 3/4" plywood? That is a very slick idea, but it depends on knowing the CG and being able to "hang" the body just right.

Good to keep in mind!

[chris vickery]

Terry
I’m personally not a fan of rotisseries but to each their own.
Trying to find exactly what you need for a 151 may be a challenge, at some point I’m sure it will need to be customized to fit.
They take up a lot of room as well.
On a unibody design like a Mutt, one has to consider when cutting and removing panels, thought must come into play ahead of time as the strength of the body as a whole supports its structure when mounted in the device.
Best use of a rotisserie that I have seen is mostly for sandblasting, painting or whenever it is desirable to turn over whatever it is you’re working with- a frame, a complete body etc

[James P]

I will chime in on use of a rotisserie. Great for paint time but not so much during the cut and weld stage of a unibody. So that said make sure you are tack welding lots of 1/2" (or greater) angle all over the car prior to cutting to preserve its dimensional integrity and preventing it from sagging or hogging.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Terry

Congrats on becoming a fully retired OD green addict.

I made my own rotisserie based on plans I purchased and then modified from a multitude of web sites.....to respect my abilities at fabricating and the tools I had at hand.

I will gladly show you what I have done and let you know some of the things I would do different. Currently holding up the 2/3 rear of a discarded C15a frame and a 2B1 cargo box being rebuilt..... probably over a metric ton.

The M151 would have either front bumper brackets or front suspension points sturdy enough to lift that body. Getting it started or located on the rotisserie is slow but once balanced she will spin by hand.
In fact on the web you will see numerous users of two engine stands and some welding and it seems to do the job.

You can build one cheaper than buying a good heavy one. Unfortunately steel prices are high and that reflects in the material whether you buy it fully done or partly assembled or make your own. I could not find one I could afford that was sturdy enough to tackle CMP heavy components.

Have you chatted with Stuart as I believe he has fabricated one. The overall weight and size of the M151 is ideal for such a projects. I am using mine and although bulky, I love it and would do it again.

I built mine entirely out of 2 in. and 2 1/2 in. and a few short section of 3 in. receiver tube now hard to find..... square trailer tubing with 1/4 in. wall thickness.....heavy, expensive but will not bend under load easily and is safe to use with CMP loads. We are currently busy cutting out panels and rewelding new steel and as I hate welding while laying on my back with sparks dropping in my shirt it is a worth while investment.....and all the work is done standing up at waist level.

As for storage well we can park it next to your skidoo trailer in the back field until my demise.

Take your time and surf the web for the multitude of designs some of which are a death trap. And when you are finished with it you can rent it, sell it or do another Mutt. Have look at what I have posted on MLU. Call me if you want to chat or visit and get an eye full. Some sites are very educational and will show you how to brace a bare body before removing key structural components.....a rusted convertible with the doors and top removed will fold in half or sag like an old mare if not properly braced. Most of my ready made parts came from Princess Auto when on sale or curb side pickup on garbage day. Neighbor donated four almost new Winter tires on rims when he cleaned up to move....short haul from across the street ...and they were 5 on 4 1/2 bolt pattern that fitted the PA stub axles perfectly. Other parts came from friendly trades and scrounging. ....some sand blasting for a 100:1 gear box screw drive which means we can spin the frame/box by means of a 1/2 in. ratchet.

Strangely enough I had installed a rubber spider U joint between the gear box and the rotating load tied to a stub axle...... and used a 1/2 air impact wrench.....first time I used it the wonderful u joint just cracked up and spit out the Allen key........ but PA is known for ease of returning defective( or abused) parts and simply trade up for a HD U joint and no longer use the 500 pound of torque from the air impact.

Hopefully we have a nice Summer a head of us if you chose to build we can help you out. You get to learn welding and the personal satisfaction of doing it.

Cheers

[Grant McCullough]

Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh

So, when I graduate to building a carrier, can I simply reuse these same 2x6s and 3/4" plywood? That is a very slick idea, but it depends on knowing the CG and being able to "hang" the body just right.

Good to keep in mind!

Terry, for a carrier project I would invest in 12” x12” x8’ dunnage, cut and stack to suit, if need for track repair or heaven forbid floor repair. I had to stack them two high to facilitate spinning some frozen track on a Mk2 I used to own. I would suggest keeping a carrier upright and in position, for restoration.

However if your had to put a spin onto the term carrier roller, (I personally wouldn’t, unless it had to be done and no crane was available) then one might want to check this concept out. All joking aside it should work.

https://blog.world-mysteries.com/mys...-stone-blocks/

[maple_leaf_eh]

FB is not just good for finding old school friends and sharing the latest conspiracy theories. I asked this same Q on a group for M151 owners, and another member offered to send more pictures of the proper US military rotisserie. He got my attention with the ones attached.