Reference: C15 s/n 2842129988 history and restoration

[Hendrik van Oorspronk]

Hello should never say it is your last, if you have room in your garage you will buy a next project, until the last, you thought it would fit, it doesn't, ask a lot of people, you always have one vehicle more then will fit in your garage, you thought it would fit in it, bit it did not.

Green greeting Hendrik

[rampant rivet]

Hi Hendrik
Yes this is the last big restoration job I will do, I have spent over three years working on the Chev and it has been good fun, but I just do not have the time or money for another large restoration and as I have had my Norton 16H for twenty years I think an M20 or Ariel WNG would make a good stable mate in the future.

RR.

[Hendrik van Oorspronk]

Now I understand, you don't start a new project, you are just looking for another motorcycle you can work on

Green greetings Hendrik

[rampant rivet]

Came to offer up wings to cab 13 on my 1942 C 15 and saw that the steps are too far foward so mudflaps will not clear.
can any please post detailed pics of both drivers side and passenger plus distance of drop from top of chassis rail to top of angle iron step support.
I have a pile of parts some of which I should be able to use to make up a couple of sets if not at least I'll know what I'm short of.
By the way I am still after details pics and measurements of the stowage bins as fitted to a wood composite body.

Any help very much appreciated.

RR.

[Stewart Loy]

RR,

I did the same thing. I was very disappointed to see that the steps did not allow the fenders back on when reassembled. I went back to the 'pre-resto' pix and determined that I had the left step on the right side ( and vice versa ).

Swapping them side to side fixed up the issue.


Stewart

give me a PM if you need more pix, as most are too large for posting

[Lynn Eades]

If you e-mail your picture to yourself, your picture will probably be reduced in size. You can then save that image for posting.

[rampant rivet]

Have made another step forward this evening after work as now I have lowered the rear body onto the chassis

Took it outside for a spin in the yard probably the first time the chevs moved under its own steam in years.
Note - this is what a happy rivet looks like

Now to sort out the steps, wiring loom, front shell, wings etc etc can anyone tell me the system used to hold rear body to chassis rail.


Heres a better shot without a rivet in the way very nice to be able to dive the beast at last can't wait to start using properly

RR

[Max Hedges]

the step on our C15 hope that helps
Max

[rampant rivet]

Thanks Max
Could you send some of the drivers side as well please and if you have time I need some detailed pics of the stowage bins fitted to the underside of the body as I need to make new ones.

Cheers RR

[Max Hedges]

there was a thread on these bin agood while back, Hanno remembers every thing so he might be able to find it
Max

[rampant rivet]

Tried fitting nose shell to my C15 last night and had some difficulty due to the fact that I think I had fitted the radiator too low down.
Can anyone tell me the height of spacer fitted between radiator and chasssis crossmember please ?

Cheers RR.

[aj.lec]

hello
the one on friends c15a is 1.5"
consists of 2flat plates with rubber spacer in between
not quite sure if it is original
if that helps
doing a great job on yours it looks a treat
congratulations

sorry correction on the rubber it is one solid steel piece

[Keith Orpin]

Andy,
The twin bobin arrangement, made from steel on your friend's Chevy is correct.
R.R. From memory, it's about 1 1/2" deep, I'll see if I can measure mine tonight to confirm
Keith

[rampant rivet]

Thanks for your help and pix will make something up to lift the rad by required amount.
Will post some pics tomo as the truck is being inspected by the dvla prior to it having an age related reg No. and being exempted from Mot

Cheers RR.

[rampant rivet]

Have had to dry fit nose shell prior to truck being inspected by the DVLA in order to get a registration mark, free road tax and MOT exemption the beast really is starting to look like it should though I have to remove the nose shell to enable me to finish off electrics / lift radiator to correct height, fit headlights if I ever get them etc etc etc.

On fitting the nose section I came accross this problem see photo - I think that in a previous life this truck was fitted with a diesel engine resulting in the shell being modified, the gap shown is not parellel and does not look right I think that before removal I will take some measurements and adjust to close the gap up, two steps forward one back as they say Off to France for the annual beer and battlefields tour next week which will be good to enable me to recharge the batteries and then push on with the retoration on my return.

RR.

[Gunner]

As an interim solution try old hockey pucks... should be available in Blighty and the rubber is both hard enough for this application and can be drilled (freeze it first, makes the drilling easier).

Good luck, your work is amazing!

Mike

[Phil Waterman]

One of my trucks which I do not think had been apart prior to my getting it the rubber isolator was obviously cut the side wall of a truck tire. So, I suspect that this may have been one of the few actual uses they found for old tires collected in the scrap drives.

[Grant Bowker]

Old tire sidewalls have also been seen as isolators between transfer case and frame and are also one of the materials used at the forward can mounts for Cab 13. What was on any given truck for cab isolation seems to have depended on whether they were shorter of spring steel or rubber products at the time the truck was made. The service bulletins make reference to both types of cab isolator. A Cab 12 seen at Bob Carriere's field of dreams had strips of wood (oak?) along the top rail of the frame under the cab, too long to make out of single tire sidewall, even three pieces wouldn't be likely.

[rampant rivet]

Interesting you should mention front cab insulaters made from tyre sidewalls as that is the material I am going to use on my 13 cab front mountings.
I need to sort out the method of attaching rear body to chassis with I think packing pieces between wooden runners and top of chassis rail.
Any ideas gratefully received, and thanks for the encouragment had some good news yesterday as I have now sorted out an age related reg No. free road tax and exemption from MOT testing, there is a god after all

Cheers RR

[George McKenzie]

I have a #13 F15A original with no helper springs and a #11 F15A with the Chev rearends .It has helper springs .These trucks have their original paint and no rust . This is very interesting as I think alot of changes were done by local units .George Mckenzie

[rampant rivet]

Well not too much to report lately, have recovered from a mad trip to France am in the middle the middle of trying to buy our first house together and I have just been informed that the owner of the workshop I rent wants me to vacate while doubling the rent meanwhile this will mean a delay in my restoration while I move all the gear as well as the truck to new premises.
The good news is that if we do manage to sort the new house there will be room for me to build a nice new shop to take the Norton, Jeep and the chevy plus all the other accumolated junk ooops I meant to say historic military artifacts.


RR.

[rampant rivet]

This may be the last pic I post on here for a while untill I have managed to move truck and contents of workshop. though I have finally finished the electrics with the generous help from my father.
Just need to fit wings, wipers and other odds'n sods but its getting there looks a bit better with the spare wheel fitted.
Am looking forward to its first shake down road runs

Well the chev has a new temperary home as it now resides at the estate I work on, had to move it on a beaver tail as I am having problems getting the brakes to operate properly.

Its starting to look the part now with details like roof grab rails, headlights, and markings to do. It drives well but with no brakes its quite an experience

After adjusting wheel cylinders according to the manual the Chev has now got some brakes and a good pedal, I am bedding in the shoes to the newly skimmed drums and have done 4.5 miles so far with nothing major falling off, just the odd adjustment here and there.
Jobs for Sat include making brackets to take the front british army Butler sidelights to act as disguised indicators and some temperary mirror adjusting brackets to allow me to fit the mirrors as even with no tilt fitted its not much fun reversing without them.

RR.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

RR,

Looks really splendid - well done!

Hanno

[rampant rivet]

Well the brakes are ok now after some adjustment also the engine runs a lot smoother after getting some miles on the clock, Even took my wife for a spin as well, she was very impressed !! and was the first passenger brave enough to jump in !! I am moving the truck again tomo to more permanent storage now that it road legal so it will be interesting to see how it drives on the highway
Will call by a neighbour on the way who was seconded to Canadian troops during WWII he remembers driving the CMP's back then and I am looking forward to reuniting John once again with one of these trucks, will post pics tomo eve.

Nuther pic taken on the estate I am working on. Will fit headlights when I get them. Note mirrors are temporary untill I get used to size of truck then will be replaced by original ones.

RR.

[Keith Webb]

The colour looks really good in the sunlight and the blackouts make it look complete! Are you teaching your wife to drive it?

[Col Tigwell]

Really great work, the standard is so high, really impressed.

Now I have been married much longer than you, And your lady is showings signs of being at home with the truck, just watch out that she does not suggest that you have a his and hers.

Great to see you nearly at the end.

Regards

Col

[Rob Beale]

I found the original CMP mirrors give a much better view than the larger (flat) modern ones. The left side especially is far more visible, and safer too. I found my passengers often knocked it out of position when they swung the door too wide.

Good work, it is an inspiration to us all!

Rob

[rampant rivet]

Thanks Guys
Yes my wife will learn to drive the Chev as she thinks my jeep too scary I still have to make the stowage box's and add markings, door tops and rear canvas, all should be 100% by spring 2008. We hope to take the C15 to Normandy in 2009

RR.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally posted by rampant rivet
Well the brakes are ok now after some adjustment also the engine runs a lot smoother after getting some miles on the clock, Even took my wife for a spin as well, she was very impressed !! and was the first passenger brave enough to jump in !!

RR
Just goes to show you that what I have been saying all along is true..
These CMP's are "CHICK MAGNETS""..
Well done..Two beauties..

[rampant rivet]

Have now moved the C15 to its winter storage, 40 miles now and its still going well, just have to stop all the sqeaks
On the way I called by to see John our neighbour who was seconded to canadian troops during WWII and drove lots of CMP's it was great to reunite two old friends after 65 + years and made the three and a half year restoration worthwhile.

Well things have been a bit crazy of late, have moved house at last which means that I have a garage for the Norton and the Jeep
Also installed the Chev in its new quarters after making new doors to keep it snug this winter, when things calm down some I'll start making the stowage bins and doing all those finishing touches

RR.