Reference: C15 s/n 2842129988 history and restoration

[rampant rivet]

Mmmm
Not too sure about meat head !!

RR.

[rampant rivet]

Had a few days holiday so got stuck into cab frame, now its starting to look more like a CMP

Heres the next project luckily not too much rot just a few post war slight alterations, I'll be glad when all this panel beatings finished as my welding is of the gorilla kind ! ugly but Bl**dy strong

RR.

[Bob Carriere]

You are doing a nice job Jeremy

....those tires are something else......

Are you planning to reskin the back of the cab..... or I should say do you have to....... every cab we see around here has rust hole in the bottom of the rear panel and bottom of doors.....

Will have to improve some of my sheet metal skills.....

Keep the pictures coming they are an inspiration for us grease monkey.....

Bob C.

[rampant rivet]

Hi Bob
Yes I have to replace the rear cab panels pus outer front wings need some work, due to cab design from what I can tell most 13 cabs go in the same places, bottom of doors. inner and outer wings,front cab panels and rear panels where joined together plus rear wndow opening though luckily most panels are fairly easy to do apart from wings.

RR.

[rampant rivet]

Managed to sneak off for a few hours this avo and started fettling front cab panels.

I knew the backing panels to my shelving unit would come in usefull

RR.

[Tony Smith]

Originally posted by Alex Blair
The 637 in the number refers to the gear ratio..the C15's had the 6.37:1 rear ends and the C15A had the 6.39:1 rear ends..diffs,if you prefer..

The first C8A,C8AX also had the 6.37:1 diffs... but changed down to 7.38:1...on replacement...

Slight correction to those numbers, Alex, they refer to the ratio, but expressed as Teeth to teeth, not as a numeric ratio.

6:37 = 6 gear teeth on the pinion and 37 teeth on the crown wheel, or a numeric ratio of 6.16 to 1
6:39 = 6 tooth pinion on a 39 tooth crown wheel = 6.5 to 1
6:43 = 6 '' '' 43 '' '' '' = 7.16 to 1
7:38 = 5.43 to 1.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Jeremy, you're making good progress! Seems you have not yet had time to watch YOTB


Seeing this picture, I wonder where you got that battery box? Did you make it up yourself?

Thanks,
Hanno

[rampant rivet]

Hi Hanno
Sorry for not replying sooner have been working all hours not all on the C 15 unfortunately, yes I have watched the video and very good it is too
As for the battery tray I think its an original one though someone has added an extra 100mm to the threads, I do have another problem in that the side steps differ in height from one side to the other.
As I have no reference to their correct height maybe you can help I have spare plates that will enable me to fit different height steps.
The problem for me in rebuilding this truck is that a lot of parts were missing or not fitted to the vehicle

Thanks again for sending the video.

RR.

[rampant rivet]

At long last I have a running 235 after fitting new plugs, coil, condenser and a carter YF carb it sprang to life this morning much to my relief it sounds good no blue smoke and when I fit a new vaccum thingy to the distributor its sorted hopefully !!!.
Many thanks to all those that have offered advice and help over the past months it all seeems worthwhile when you hear that motor running.
Have added pic all you have to do is make with the purring sounds

Regards RR.

[jim sewell]

Jeremy
Excellent restoration , well done .

You will find out sooner or later that the gear stick will need to be taken out and turned 180 degrees other wise you may end up with a deformed left arm .
Jim S.

[rampant rivet]

Thanks for the info Jim I did wonder how long it would take for someone to notice nah ! only kidding I am gratefull for the info and will turn it around on my next session at the workshop.

Cheers Jeremy.

[rampant rivet]

Have just aquired a new handbrake pawl spring but cannot fathom out how to fit the darn thing can anyone help please ? pic of the beast in situ would be of great help.

Thanks RR.

[Phil Waterman]

C15 I assume attached is picture of spring as used on my Chevys easy to slip in just remove the handle pin bolt and insert the spring in the hole and up the handle. That’s the good news the bad news is that the major reason for the parking paw not working as it should is not the spring but is slop in all the connections so that the paw doesn’t engage correctly.

I’ve been having problems with the parking brake on my C60S had the entire lever assembly and ratchet out twice now even compared the angle of the teeth with a known good unit. The only thing that could find different in the two units is the slop at all the pins coming down from the release handle guess only thing I can do is try replacing all the pins (bolts and rivets) with snug fitting pins.

From the dirty finger nails you can tell I just came in from the shop.

[rampant rivet]

Thanks Phil
Makes that little job a lot easier as someone had fitted a spring lower down towards the gearbox which is what threw me, as it had rusted away almost and seemed a bit weak for the job I thought someone would be able to shed some light on the original location.

Thanks again
jeremy aka RR.

[rampant rivet]

Now I have the engine running nicely on a temporary set up I am now about to sort the wiring loom proper, to do this I need to make a pattern but need to know the route the loom takes to various components to enable accurate lengths to be worked out.
Can anyone give me a rough guide to this please.
By the way its a Cab 13 15cwt GS CMP 1942.

Thanks RR.

[Phil Waterman]

The topic of reproducing wiring harnesses has come up several times before, so I would start by searching the Forum using a couple of terms, wiring, harness, wire loom. That should bring up most of the previous discussions and many good points. I’ve reproduced wiring harness on all three of my CMPs in each case using the old harness as the guide. I’ve save all the originals for future reference. With in the next few weeks I will be helping another member our little band of CMPers to make up a new harness for his C15A so I’ll be glad to try and supply any information that I can. While I’m doing that I can give you all the lengths color code information for the wiring.

Now from what you said-

“Now I have the engine running nicely on a temporary set up I am now about to sort the wiring loom proper, to do this I need to make a pattern but need to know the route the loom takes to various components to enable accurate lengths to be worked out.
Can anyone give me a rough guide to this please. By the way its a Cab 13 15cwt GS CMP 1942.”

-a couple of points or questions. From your question about the routing, I would assume that the original harness was missing or so chopped up that you cannot use that as a guide to the location. If this is the case I’d suggest that from photographs determine the routing and lay in a ½ or ¾ rope too check the route and to mark off the branch locations.

If you working from an original harness that you make all of your branch sections as well as the terminal ends 2-4 inches longer than the original this will aid greatly installation and later service. (particularly the section going off behind the dash)

From the 1942 date of your C15 that it has the commercial instruments instead of the later round military, this is important because there are several differences in the wire lengths and layout behind the dash.

Comparing the wiring harness part numbers from C60 to the HUP it appears that the harness are in general the same for front section which ends under the back wall of the cab so you can use wire routing and location information from the larger trucks.

The picture link below is of my original 1945 HUP harness on pin board, this is what I use for making up new harnesses. I also have 1942 C60S and 1941 C60L laid out this way. I’m trying to figure out how to photograph them so that it can be printed out full size.

http://www.mapleleafup.org/forums/at...=&postid=52124

[rampant rivet]

Thanks Phil I am waiting for a call from Keith Orpin in regards to a supplier for a new loom as there was no loom present at all when I first got my truck.
What I would like to know is the route of the loom IE does the rear part of the loom run to the left or right chassis rail, all may become clear after a chat woth Keith.

Regards RR.

[Keith Orpin]

Hi Jeremy,
Having enjoyed our little chat last night, could you please contact me in the next couple of days, via my phone numbers you have, as I have some good news for you.
Regards
Keith

[rampant rivet]

yes it is as bad as it looks
Jim yes I did remember to turn gearstick around by the way is that a photo of a C15 13 cab ?
Is that the correct pos for Battery carrier in the cab ? I think I may have fitted wrong step brackets can anyone post some photo's of correct ones please.
On a brighter note I have now sorted the brakes and she now sits on her wheels with prop shaft attached .

RR.

[jim sewell]

Jeremy
The battery box is not supposed to be in the cab as shown in the picture I submitted , it sits on the drivers step .
I have taken the steps off that particular truck for restoration so I cannot send a picture .
Regards
Jim S.

[maverick]

Great job your doin there if one of my two CMPS ever gets to that standard i will be well chuffed ! Im from Cirencester living in Swindon what part of Glos are you in ?

[rampant rivet]

Thanks for the encouraging comments its taken 3 yrs so far, thought it would take me 18 months !! main thing has been collecting missing parts, the internet and ebay have made my restoration possible if you are looking for Ford spares try searcing for Flathead V8 on ebay he has some nice NOS ford spares inc I think a new rad etc, makes me wish I was restoring a Ford ( almost !! ) I live in the Forest Of Dean not too far from Ciren, good luck with your restorations they will keep you busy

RR.

[rampant rivet]

I am about to order a new canvas for the rear body of my C15 I have set of bow hoops but need to be sure of the correct height of them.
Can anyone give me the measurement from floor of body to top of the bow hoops please, I have the later wood / steel composite body.
Also I need any information on the stowage box's fitted to the underside of the body some nice detailed pics and measurements would be great
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

RR.

[rampant rivet]

Am now starting on repairs to rear body plus I am starting to fit the rear hoops though I do need some help from you guys as I will need to make the locker box's fitted to the underside of the wood / steel body as fitted to a C15 HELP ! Please can anyone post some good detailed photo's and dimensions of them on this forum. Failing that maybe someone on this forum in the UK has some originals, condition uninportant as I will make copies if necessary.

Just had another thought does anyone know the length of the canvas mudflaps fitted to the front wheel arches and rear body.
I know the rear are 16" wide and front are 12" but as they have rotted away I have no idea on dimensions to have new ones produced.

Cheers RR.

[Bob Carriere]

How are you dealing with the swiss cheese sheet metal of the cab top...????

Are you re-skinning the top half of the cab??? I have seen the rear bottom portion reskinned and will do the same on mine but the top portion seems more difficult....... any suggestions or things to watch for....... are you doing it yourself or farming out to a body shop..??

Keep up the excellent work.

Bob

[rampant rivet]

Hi Bob
In order to move things along a bit I have just had new cab floor plates made from original patterns that were beyond use I have also parted the cab rear frame from panel in order to have a new skin made, it has curved corners plus a joggled edge top and bottom and thought it easier to have this panel made at the same time.
I will get rear cab panel frame blasted then re attach new panel. Regarding rear window I was lucky in that one of the frames was still good this one will be spot welded to the new cab panel I obtained a second frame from Canada and will use this one to hold the glass in, these tend to suffer from the dreaded rot and are hard to replicate.
I am off to my workshop tomorrow and will take some more pics, you don't happen to have any stowage box's of the type I need I will have to start making them soon.
I have also ordered a new rear canvas from Allied Forces here in the UK plus a new wiring loom from OZ will have to do some overtime to pay for it all

Regards RR.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi RR

First off my box is the ealry 2B1.... it has stowage boxes about the size of a POW can on the two rear most corners of the box..... is that what you are looking for...... I can send you pictures and take measurements... should be easy to replicate as they are just simple 90 degree bends....

Bob

[Ken Hughes]

bob can i put in my 2 cents worth in regard to rear top panel of cab
1st the panel is spot welded and seam welded ,easy to drill out the spot welds,but the seam,short of grinding it of?.
what i did was i had the top of the new panel swagged in behind the roof panel and plug welded it in place with the
mig
can anyone else tell us what they have done about this?

[Bob Carriere]

... for the input. I have minimal concerns with reskinning the bottom rear part of the cab.... but the top appears more difficult.

The bottom part of the back of the cab fits to an angle iron and you have some substance to work with... it is the top part of that skin where it meets the roof just before the curving sheet of the roof.

WE may have to invest in a spot welder..... but the arms would need to be at least 18 inches...... filling up holes with the mig to simulate spot welds maybe the best alternative.

I sure would like to hear for others who have done this part of the roof/cab. I have considered farming out the sheet metal work to a body shop..... but hey are expensive and may not fully appreciate what I need done or the quality of the product that is required when you consider that both side of the sheet metal is visible and gobs of bondo is not what we are looking for.

Bob C.

[rampant rivet]

When I have my cab panels made from the originals I will have to drill holes in one panel, clamp the two together holding them together with possibly self tapping screws then spot weld them together. I am lucky in that the roof panel is basically sound apart from over the top of the doors which I will repair myself.
I have had my new floor plates made and have added a pic they will still take a bit of fitting though.
I have to agree with Bob in that body shops are expensive I am using a local engineering firm while their costs are reasonable they are not so fussy about the finished project which I have to keep an eye on.

RR.