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Old 28-10-17, 04:47
Les Kovacs Les Kovacs is offline
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Location: Toronto, Canada
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Default Leaky front crank

Hi...I just finished re-wiring the flasher to lever harness with the 4 blinkers as per my last post....I am now onto a leaky front crank.
Question...Is it hard to take off the crank pulley and get at the timing cover gasket and crank oil seal? Are there any other sources of oil leakage that may come from the front crank area under the timing cover?

Thanks in advance,

lesk
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Old 28-10-17, 06:49
Malcolm Towrie Malcolm Towrie is offline
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Les,
You gotta tell us what vehicle you are talking about!

Malcolm
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Old 28-10-17, 07:13
rob love rob love is offline
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I have seen the Willys leak right at the bottom corners of the timing cover gasket. Nothing a dab of RTV wouldn't fix on installation of a new gasket.

Best way to remove the pulley is with a puller. Otherwise a plastic face hammer may do it. But the puller is the right way.

The hammer thing is only for the engines with the solid steel pulleys. I wouldn't try the plastic hammer on the cheaper stamped pulleys.
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Old 30-10-17, 03:21
Les Kovacs Les Kovacs is offline
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Default Timing Cover

Hi Rob...good tip to get pulley off...however, is that it? So you just take off the front bolt and get the pulley off? What way does the bolt come off...counter clock wise? Is an air wrench appropriate for this? Is there any kind of drift key and if so how does that come off?

Thanks,

les
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Old 30-10-17, 04:59
rob love rob love is offline
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The nut is right hand thread if I recall correctly. There is a keyway in the crank....it will remain there as the pulley comes off. The pulley should not slide off easily....if it does you have another problem.

There was an instruction years back re the torque on that nut. If it is too low, then the pulley will eventually wear the keyway slot on the crank and on the pulley, resulting in you having to remove and repair or replace the crankshaft.
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Old 31-10-17, 06:28
Les Kovacs Les Kovacs is offline
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Default Crank Pulley

Thanks Rob....the crank pulley-timing cover gasket & oil seal comes next week. I have another question if time permits.

I just got new emergency brake shoes...the old ones hung out from the drum by 1/4 to 1/2 inch and ruined the shoes.....it also did not have the brake stop as in the m38A1 emergency brake exploded diagram. I am trying to put everything together but even the new shoes stick out past the drum by over 1/4 inch and I have no clue as to where the brake stop goes as the diagram does not show this. Any chance you would have a better picture of the whole emergency brake put together properly?

Thanks,

les
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  #7  
Old 31-10-17, 07:12
rob love rob love is offline
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See photo below.
Attached Thumbnails
m38a1 brake.jpg  
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Old 31-10-17, 22:59
Les Kovacs Les Kovacs is offline
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Default Emergency Brake Diagram

Thanks Rob....but I have this picture. I see the position of the brake stop on the shaft however, if I install the brake stop as it is in the picture there is no room left to put in a cotter pin as the shaft is not long enough. What gives?

Also, it has come to my attention that the compression and oil control rings were replaced on my M38A1 CDN2 in the 2011 rebuild by the retired Petawawa mechanic. I have gone through the oil loss details in past posts. It has now come to my attention that there is no PCV ventilator baffle although everything else is there and the PCV valve is free and clean. What does the ventilator baffle do and can the lack of this cause oil loss/burning?

Regards ,

les
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