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  #121  
Old 15-06-09, 02:13
RHClarke's Avatar
RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Quiet Time at the Barn

The past three weeks have seen the Rotters on the road collecting bits of iron oxide. First, the show at Oshawa, where we met a chap selling a used CMP rim for only $100.00...Next, a trip to Barrie for the annual pilgrimage of the faithful (collectors, that is) to the gigantic automotive flea market, and then a trip to the deep bush of eastern Ontario to feed the bugs and to recover a HUP body.

Oddly, on every trip we ran into Brian Gough, who has taken on the job as our Fifth Columnist and G2 for the Rotters.

When will this madness end? Only the wife knows for sure... More later!
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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  #122  
Old 15-06-09, 23:45
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Shhhhhhhhtttttt.... stealth recovery.

Well time for some catch up pictures of our latest efforts.

The Evil Rotters have been busy this season.

We all know that thanks to Brian Gough Rob has become the Ottawa Hup master........Brian remains the HUP Grand BooBa......

Moving 3 Hups plus a HUP body from the bug infested Ontario Forest has blwon away a few weekends..... then I went back to Oshawa to pick up one of Mel's cab 12 for potential parts source.

The worst partr is we still have at least 4 more trips for a frame, a trailer and possibly two more HUP parts vehicles.......

Time for some pcitures....

First of Hup NO 1....... dated August 1942..... and its a cab 13...Hum !!!

Poor guys could not afford a winch and had to muscle it on by come-a-long..
This was on the Easter weekend.... two Ford trucks/trailer bringing to Chev Hups......

ROB...note... I can't seem to find my pictures of the Prototype..lost in the crash maybe..... will need to check my files.

The we did HUP no#3 in June while visiting the Barrie Antique car flea market...the rear wheels refused to turn and the HUP crabbed sideways while loading..... nothing a little jacking could not take care of..... carefully pushing the HUP off the jack in its place.....

Will do a seperate one for the cab 12 and the body.....

Boob
Attached Thumbnails
HPIM8808enlresized.jpg   HPIM8820enlresized.jpg   P1120258enlresized.jpg   P1120260enlresized.jpg   P1120263enlresized.jpg  

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  #123  
Old 16-06-09, 00:07
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default The cab 12 from Mel and the "body"....

Back to the chicken farm......

Now mid June to bring back the cab 12...... safely at home in the driveway....

One of the original run flat tire had a little cut in the side wall..... I inserted my Ford door key a full 1 1/2 half inch into the cut.... tire was flat yet it held up the front end of the cab as if inflated.....

Now the HUP body was another storey and another weekend.... deep intot he woods of cottage country...... Biran and Mel pooled there collective memory to figger out where it was last seen.....hidding behind a cloud of black flies..... there she was in all her glory....not sure if they were bullet holes or fly bites....

skidding her on without wheels was a challenge but we did it..... a bit of jacking....some lumber..... some heaving.... and she got one nicely....

Brian could not resist looking under the front seat for loose change... probably looking for a "1943 thumback nickel" made of copper....

Drive home was uneventful except for some OPP chickee who stopped us to check our seat belts and see if we had been drinking.... she probably assumed we had to be drunk to drag that thing home......

Although we have said it before .....it bears repeating...... none of this would have happened without the help, assistance and guidance from Brian.....

....... at least that's what we told our wifes......


BooBee
PS...... and thank God my 'Puter is up and running...again !!!!
Attached Thumbnails
P1120277enlresized.jpg   P1120278enlresized.jpg   P1120288enlresized.jpg   HPIM8921enlresized.jpg   HPIM8926enlresized.jpg  

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  #124  
Old 16-06-09, 14:23
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Well Done Boys

Glad to see so much CMP heritage being save from the scrap mongers.

Cheers and Well Done

Phil
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  #125  
Old 17-06-09, 03:47
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default HUP Haters

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
...Moving 3 Hups plus a HUP body from the bug infested Ontario Forest has blown away a few weekends...First of Hup NO 1... dated August 1942..... and its a cab 13...Hum !!!Boob
Why is it that so many who were lucky enough to get a HUP after the war had to cut off the rear sheet metal??? Why didn't they just get a "real" CMP instead. It boggles this HUP lover's mind...Fortunately, there are some HUP/HUW bodies still to be had (albeit in various stages of decay). I mean to have all within reach...(cue nefarious sounding music).

Thanks for the pix, Bob. A big shout out goes to Brian Gough for the art of the deal, Bob Carriere and Grant Bowker for transport and to my wife who puts up with this obsession (she doesn't seem to mind - in fact, she still is out shopping...).
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?

Last edited by RHClarke; 18-06-09 at 04:02. Reason: spelin
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  #126  
Old 17-06-09, 07:06
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RHClarke View Post
Why is it that so many who were lucky enough to get a HUP after the war had to cut off the rear sheet metal??? .
Because trucks were more expensive to buy and these 'Vans' were cheaper and easy to chop. Same thing happed here with artillery tractors and signals vans in particular.
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  #127  
Old 17-06-09, 08:48
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Useful

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Originally Posted by cliff View Post
Because trucks were more expensive to buy and these 'Vans' were cheaper and easy to chop. Same thing happed here with artillery tractors and signals vans in particular.
It made them 'useful'.

There were some 'van conversions of No8 and 9 arty tractors as well as sigvans. I've even seen sigvans used for smallgoods.

Oh well.
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  #128  
Old 17-06-09, 15:26
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Signals Vans and post war use

I've heard that the Signals Vans in fact any of the special use big trucks were more prized because as surplus (by some) because they had not been pounded to death so hard as the general service hauling trucks.

As anyone else heard similar stories or comments?

Cheers Phil
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  #129  
Old 17-06-09, 20:11
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Low mileage vehicles

Quote:
Originally Posted by Phil Waterman View Post
I've heard that the Signals Vans in fact any of the special use big trucks were more prized because as surplus (by some) because they had not been pounded to death so hard as the general service hauling trucks.

As anyone else heard similar stories or comments?

Cheers Phil
In Australia we kept many of our specialist vehicles for a long time. These included Wireless Sigs vans, Gun Tractors, Direction Finding vans (on F60S), Ambulances, Fire Tenders and Machinery Workshops. Many of these were very low mileage when surplused, especially those on RAAF bases.
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  #130  
Old 17-06-09, 20:46
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Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP) Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP) is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Webb View Post
In Australia we kept many of our specialist vehicles for a long time. These included Wireless Sigs vans, Gun Tractors, Direction Finding vans (on F60S), Ambulances, Fire Tenders and Machinery Workshops. Many of these were very low mileage when surplused, especially those on RAAF bases.
Jon Skagfeld can regale you ad nauseum with stories of our CMP sigs vans still in service in the latter half of the fifties, even well after the introduction of the M- series vehicles...
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  #131  
Old 17-06-09, 21:02
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Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
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Default Skag

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Originally Posted by Geoff Winnington-Ball View Post
Jon Skagfeld can regale you ad nauseum with stories of our CMP sigs vans still in service in the latter half of the fifties, even well after the introduction of the M- series vehicles...
I bet he can but I don't mind Jon regaling me ad nauseum at all!

Being the frugal types we are we kept many of these in service into the late 60s and even early 70s, so these beautiful, almost museum pieces were sold to be chopped and destroyed... not to mention our Studebaker US6 fleet which was also sold through the 70s after being stored new until the 60s. For one of these just run in trucks back in 1974 you'd pay around $750 with less than 2000 miles on the clock. You could also buy a White Scout Car with more miles on it for the same price.
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  #132  
Old 18-06-09, 01:07
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Alas!

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Originally Posted by Keith Webb View Post
It made them 'useful'...Oh well.
Yes, when faced with a need, you adapt. I of course speak (whine) on behalf of those spoiled HUP owners who can afford (today, at least) to restore a truck, and not for those farmers, truckers, etc...who had to make a living with these trucks.

But I still don't like it...(nice thing about this forum is that you can't see me pouting...).
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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  #133  
Old 23-06-09, 16:25
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Default fertilizer

Hi Rob,

You must be watering and fertilizing well as the cmps are multipling.
Hope all is going well.

Cheers,
Greg
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  #134  
Old 23-06-09, 16:39
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Hell no.....

..... we are not spraying with fertilizer....... we use Round Up to keep them from multiplying.......

All joking aside Ottawa as been so wet and damp this season....... we have some grass growing in damp soil and getting the reflection of the sun from the winter shelter......... the result is grass growing taller than Grant (72 + inches)as of last weekend.......... we are considering cutting it for firewood in late August.....

BooB
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  #135  
Old 23-06-09, 21:22
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Wet and Wild - Perfect Breeding Conditions

Hi Greg,

The great HUP rescue mission isn't over yet. There is at least one more on my list. My long-suffering, yet well-adorned (with jewery...) wife wonders when it will all stop. I intend to restore one HUP for each year of production and then quit collecting...FLWs.

The whole family will be out your way on Canada Day to join in the Calnan Canada Day Convoy. We are planning a lunch at Merrickville lockside. Hope you, Jen and the kids can join us!
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?

Last edited by RHClarke; 24-06-09 at 00:54.
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  #136  
Old 24-06-09, 02:33
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Door Delights - It's A HUP...

This Sunday I fitted my driver side door to the HUP. There were some clearance issues, so I took the hinge assembly apart. We found that the hinge end that fit into the door was bent. A few minutes of magic with the 30 ton press sorted that out. I reattached the hinge set and attempted to bolt the hinges to the frame. Once done, we found that the door would not close properly. This was odd as we used the same style hinges as the pax side. Although the door was reskinned it did not look overly warped.

The pax side door opened and closed with ease. It had about a 1/4 inch gap between the door and the frame. The driver side door had no gap at the hinge end and really had to be forced to make the latch catch. The low profile hinge bolts scraped the inside door frame - on the other door, the bolts fit nicely with some clearance. Bob suggested that we weld a 1/4 inch bar on the flange to get the clearance. Prior to doing that, I put the following questions out to the collective wisdom of this forum: What could cause the door to fit so oddly? What should be done to fix this?
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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  #137  
Old 24-06-09, 03:24
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Correction.....

....Bob wants to use 1/4 inch key stock "held inplace with tape" to have the same spacing as the pass. side....so as to test the fit.....no welding....too damaging/permanent.

I would suggest we fit the door without hinges....using wooden shims as spacers all around..... no hinges at this time.....

Weld/rebuild the door wedge see how everything aligns with the same spacing as the pass. side..... then see how the hinges have to fit.....

Might want to measure the door opening on the pass side in various corss directions..... and compare to the driver's side...... like wise measure the door.... not being sure how or what was done during the reskinning...

There are so many variables.......

Boob
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  #138  
Old 24-06-09, 05:11
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Yeah, That's The Ticket

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
....Bob wants to use 1/4 inch key stock "held inplace with tape" to have the same spacing as the pass. side....so as to test the fit.....no welding....too damaging/permanent.I would suggest we fit the door without hinges....using wooden shims as spacers all around..... no hinges at this time.....Weld/rebuild the door wedge see how everything aligns with the same spacing as the pass. side..... then see how the hinges have to fit.....Might want to measure the door opening on the pass side in various corss directions..... and compare to the driver's side...... like wise measure the door.... not being sure how or what was done during the reskinning...
There are so many variables.......Boob
Bob, This is not the first time I got things wrong...All good ideas that I look forward to trying out. Thanks.
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  #139  
Old 20-07-09, 20:01
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Hammond Barn Update - Finally!

It has been a really weird summer - weather wise and barn activity wise. The weather has been very odd. We still have Spring like conditions at the barn. There is no shortage of mud and water in Hammond...The mosquito and black fly forces are not in short supply but for some reason they seem to have learned to swim.

The first part of our "summer" was taken up with the recovery of more than a few CMPs -three HUP frames/cabs and one HUP body for me, Bob and Grant also "scored" some CMP frames of which they will regale the forum with tales of conquest and daring do... Here is a shot of a frame that mysteriously appeared over the past few weeks:




I finally got some time at the barn last weekend. I decided to swap out the front shocks on the 45 HUP. The "new" shocks have a greater curve on the arms and match those seen on other 45s. So, off came the old shocks with relative ease - cue nefarious musical intro...

I mounted one of the new shocks and everything went very well until I tried to fit the down links. With the shock arm in the full down position (which is near horizontal) I attached the top of the down link and noticed a small gap at the bottom end (at least one inch).





I will weigh my options, but it looks like I will remount the "old" shocks unless I find a 10 1/4 in down link...

In other news: Unfortunately, BB will not happen this year. Given the current economic situation and our less than synchronized schedules, it was felt that we should postpone until things settle down. That being said, we will have a summer Gracies call - more to follow on that.
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?

Last edited by RHClarke; 21-07-09 at 02:14.
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  #140  
Old 28-07-09, 03:25
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Sometime Ya Gotta Laugh

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Originally Posted by RHClarke View Post
...I mounted one of the new shocks and everything went very well until I tried to fit the down links. With the shock arm in the full down position (which is near horizontal) I attached the top of the down link and noticed a small gap at the bottom end (at least one inch)...
I will weigh my options, but it looks like I will remount the "old" shocks unless I find a 10 1/4 in down link...
Ahem...It helps to mount the shocks on the proper sides...Everything is nicely buttoned up now. The collective "wisdom" sometimes overlooks the obvious. Bob broke the code late Sunday afternoon, but only after I had completely overhauled yet another set of knee action shocks. After more than a few laughs, we choked back a barley sandwich and headed home.
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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  #141  
Old 07-08-09, 02:54
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Some Activity at the Barn

Not too much to report:

Bob is spending the remainder of his vacation splitting wood.
Grant is busy with his Mr. Manual duties.
Guy was away watching oversized kettles boil.
So I had the barn all to my self. After a quick brake bleed, a lube job and oil change, I moved the HUP out of the barn and back into it's shelter - which has dried out somewhat after our prolonged monsoon season here in Ottawa.

I posted a poor video on photobucket (http://s143.photobucket.com/albums/r...SummerTest.flv).

You should notice a squeaking sound when I shift gears - that is the clutch pedal rubbing the foot plate which is just wired into place. As well, there is a grinding noise when I first move her out into the sun - that is the starter shifter knob wobbling around. The starter is causing some issues - if the knob is too far forward, the gears engage. Too far backwards and the grinding occurs. I hope that a thin spacer between the starter housing and the bell housing will fix this annoying problem - any other suggestions?
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?

Last edited by RHClarke; 07-08-09 at 03:19.
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  #142  
Old 07-08-09, 03:26
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Nice video......

On the screeching/sparking starter drive......

I would like to compare the linkage to the other HUP hulks you have to see what differences we can observe.......

From by brief look at the prototype..... it seems your starter lever to be too far back when disengaged......

......also to be remembered..... we ran the engine before and did not have that problem........

...maybe something let go inside the drive mechanism of the starter.... we have other 216 starters to compare with....... it seems to me that the starter drive has a coil spring that holds the gear retracted..... the spring tension is overcome by the lever pulling and the starter torque when power is applied........ but that spring may have let go.... and allows the gear to be easily nudged forward grinding on the flywheel....

I am almost sure we need to pull the starter to check it out....

....will do a two some..... I need to pull mine to install the new brushes and the new top mounted switch...... also have a new fork to install as the one presently on has flat spots on the swivel pins.....

Will get it sorted you......

Boob
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  #143  
Old 17-08-09, 16:59
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Start me (h)up!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
On the screeching/sparking starter drive... (We swapped out the starter but ran into other issues - the "new" starter got really hot, so re reinstalled the old starter and ran a return spring on the starter lever - it addressed most of the issues)...

I would like to compare the linkage to the other HUP hulks you have to see what differences we can observe...From by brief look at the prototype it seems your starter lever to be too far back when disengaged......(Done - the mounting flange on the 45 HUP was bent upwards from abuse. The handle had also been broken and rewelded at a different angle - we bent it back into the proper aspect angle -it pays to have spares).

Boob
The rules to this message board are too logical...msg too short, indeed!
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?
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  #144  
Old 17-08-09, 17:25
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Default Hot times at the hammond barn

Saturday: 32oC - Bob and I spent the first part of the morning splitting and stacking wood. Then it got too damned hot. So, we retired to the barn, swapped out a starter and fiddled around with various bits and pieces of CMP history.

After reinstalling the HUP starter, I took the old girl for a short run. Bob looked like he wanted to give the HUP a try, so I offered him the opportunity. Little did I know that we would be going on a road trip! Bob took the HUP cross country to the big field where we bounced along the real estate in fine style. We had an issue with shifting, but found that the lock out lever had to be in a special location on the shift lever in order to let us shift gears - keep in mind that the HUP had only been driven in first and reverse to this point, so it was a bit of an educational process for us...

After 20 minutes of joy riding, I drove the HUP back to the barn (got up to third gear no less!). The Metal Mistress rode smoothly and handled quite well! Some lessons learned:

- lock out lever position is critical;
- CMPs do not possess power steering;
- 30kph in a CMP is FAST!
- CMPs are thirsty bastards; and most importantly
- Bob liked driving the HUP.

The day ended with a beer and the realization that Bob is the second most experienced HUP driver in Eastern Ontario.

Sunday: 32oC+ overcast.

Grant joined the party. The early morning was spent loading the trailer with the scrap firewood, which will be fed to Lucifer when Ottawa freezes again. Bob and his neighbour Bruce, joined us for a wood splitting and stacking morning. I spent the time with the weed-whacker knocking down the jungle that sprouted over the rainy season (April-mid August).

After lunch, we mounted the front clip onto the HUP. It really made the truck look good!



I took the truck for a ride in the back field and made some new trails thru the swamp maples...After a short trip, I headed back to the barn. My starter started to smoke so I shut the HUP down by removing the battery lead - which was friggin hot! Next time I'll use my gloves... Back to the barn I went, where Bob and Grant were adjusting the plugs on Bob's truck. Bob fired up his CMP and towed the HUP back to the barn, whilst giggling about HUPs and their "personalities".

As a lark, we compared the 20 in tires to the 16 in tires on the HUP - they might fit:



After swapping out the starter, I took another test ride and most things worked well. I had an issue with the auto choke on the Rocky B carb, but Grant came to the rescue with a new clip. Next challenge is to fix the accelerator linkage.

Bob took his truck out for a spin and ended walking back for a recovery mission. I smiled at the irony...



Bob did a fast diagnosis and it looks like there is a problem with the transfer case/transmission/linkage, which means there will be a tear down this week coming...Bob in his office:



All too soon, the end of the day approached. Bob, Grant and I cleaned up the barn, put the trucks away and sat down for a beer in the shade. It must have been really hot, as the beer disappeared really fast...

It was a great weekend at the Hammond barn despite the setbacks.
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Why is it that when you have the $$, you don't have the time, and when you have the time you don't have the $$?

Last edited by RHClarke; 21-08-09 at 03:45.
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  #145  
Old 17-08-09, 17:37
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default Questions and thoughs about starter

Hi Guys

Couple of questions and observations about the starter.

1. Does yours have the return spring on the linkage that pulls it all the way back when disengaged? Without this spring the starter drive can slide back and hit the ring gear.
2. Is the lever hitting anything when the starter is fully engaged? There should be a half to a full inch of travel in the lever once everything is engaged. There is spring on the start drive which allows for over travel and to be sure that the switch has over travel to insure full engagement. With out the over travel you can end up with the switch or drive not engaging fully.
3. Watch out for some of the aftermarket switches which do not have over travel spring, in which case the adjustment of the linkage becomes very important.
4. Dose your starter have a thrust washer at the flywheel end?
5. How many teeth does your starter have 9 or 10 and is this a match for your flywheel?

Reason I'm asking all of these questions as I have just had to pull the starter out of Beauty, 261 engine with 216 flywheel and ring gear. Reason the starter drive first started making funny noises, and spinning without engaging immediately. Then spinning and not engaging. I'm using the original 6 volt 216 starter which worked fine until recently. From the sounds and poor speed spinning the engine I had suspected that starter was at fault. Beauty is set up with a battery selector switch so I can give the starter 6 volt or 12 volts from the radio battery. With the floor up and the brush band off I could see that the starter was turning but the engine wasn't.

When I removed it and removed the drive unit I discovered that the drive unit, original to the truck 63 years old, which is a one way over ride clutch would no longer lock up completely. New drive ordered. Only difficulty with finding a new one was being sure that it was a 9 tooth to match the original.

If you need pictures of the starter and linkage on another late 45 HUP let me know and I'll take up the floor plate on mine and take pictures.

Cheers Phil
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  #146  
Old 17-08-09, 20:09
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Reply from Bob......

Couple of questions and observations about the starter.

1. Does yours have the return spring on the linkage that pulls it all the way back when disengaged? Without this spring the starter drive can slide back and hit the ring gear.I installed an avaialble soft throttle spring and it seems to be holding the handle back out of the way.
2. Is the lever hitting anything when the starter is fully engaged? There should be a half to a full inch of travel in the lever once everything is engaged. There is spring on the start drive which allows for over travel and to be sure that the switch has over travel to insure full engagement. With out the over travel you can end up with the switch or drive not engaging fully.Seems most of the problem was in the bent starter backet and the handle...once straightened out they were fine....
3. Watch out for some of the aftermarket switches which do not have over travel spring, in which case the adjustment of the linkage becomes very important.We rebuild an old starter and that one worked but seemed to draw current like an old toaster.........actually the saem switch was used/swapped between the toaster and the good one
4. Dose your starter have a thrust washer at the flywheel end?The old toaster one did not the replacement he installed back in place at the end of Sunday di have the washers.... on a positive note....Rob can now remove and reinstall a starter inless than 30 minutes and that includes swapping the switch.........
5. How many teeth does your starter have 9 or 10 and is this a match for your flywheel?....Never did count the little suckers.... next time it breaksd own and Rob removes it we will count them.... probably in the next two weeks....



Reason I'm asking all of these questions as I have just had to pull the starter out of Beauty, 261 engine with 216 flywheel and ring gear. Reason the starter drive first started making funny noises, and spinning without engaging immediately. Then spinning and not engaging. I'm using the original 6 volt 216 starter which worked fine until recently. From the sounds and poor speed spinning the engine I had suspected that starter was at fault. Beauty is set up with a battery selector switch so I can give the starter 6 volt or 12 volts from the radio battery. With the floor up and the brush band off I could see that the starter was turning but the engine wasn't.

When I removed it and removed the drive unit I discovered that the drive unit, original to the truck 63 years old, which is a one way over ride clutch would no longer lock up completely. New drive ordered. Only difficulty with finding a new one was being sure that it was a 9 tooth to match the original.Phil we have a bunch of old starters.... if you can't find one let us know... we can ship from UPS cheap in upper NY.

If you need pictures of the starter and linkage on another late 45 HUP let me know and I'll take up the floor plate on mine and take pictures.
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Last edited by Bob Carriere; 17-08-09 at 21:06.
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  #147  
Old 17-08-09, 20:59
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
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Default Now on my own behalf......

Phil

Remember when we first took out my truck we had problems with the transfer case linkages and T case shifter jamming in the jimjam....

Well it did it again......

First of all my truck would not start.... no spark.... new coil seemed very very hot..... may have been fried even though I was using a ballast and bi pass for starting only..... so I gave up and went for the gusto..

I have been planing to convert to an electronic system any ways sooooo ... I have installed a "Pertronix system" on my 261 Chevrolet..... so if any one else is considering take note......

Pertronix instructions are very brief and simple....... installation is very brief and simple..... remove the condenser and points..... remove phenolic block that takes current through the wall of the dizzy.

All the process is reversible.

Install the magnetic pick up using the points pivot post and the screw that previously held the points in place..... pull the triggering wires through the hole left in the side of the dizzy body where you removed the phenolic spacer.

Red wire on positive of the coil ....Black wire on negative of the coil....voila..

Pushdown the ferrite magnet ring over the lobed shaft.... install rotor and cap and fire up.

If you sheet metal is removed or not yet installed it can be done in situ...otherwise it is best to remove the whole dizzy assembly.

WHAT THE PERTRONIX DO NOT TELL YOU.....

You have to set the gap on the magnet and pick up at .028 - .030

Plugs should be regapped at .040 to .045.... to take advantage of the extra voltage...also runs better...
.............................I opted for the conservative .040

Recommend you use the Pertronix 40,000 volts coil which is internal resistor and you will not worry with a ballast.....

Those are not my discoveries but gleaned by reading other peoples' posting on the web and taking advantage of hours of frustrations expereinced by others.....

Engine started right up..... rough idle.... and smoking blue smoke which it had never done before....ran rich but not blue....

Changed the plugs to new AC 45 gapped at .040..... 90% of smoke disappeared...... runs like the devil...... still a slight stumble at idle..... need to tweak the timing......

We actually started the engine with the dizzy mounted loose so that while Grant was cranking the starter I rotated the dizzy until it fired and ran smooth...... real exotic timing process....... re adjusted the carb idel jet screw and tweaked the dizzy by hand to get best smooth idle.

....and clamped it down.

I could not for the love of God see the white mark on the flywheel.... even checked to see if the white paint was still visible...... timing light did not seem to flash bright enough...... may the direct sunlight messed things up so we will do it again inside the shady barn.

So far I am very pleased with the conversion......... will tweak later.

So the running engine was begging for a spin on the road..... remember no lights, no license, no insurance, no fun...... went like a banshee up to fourth gear in low range into the field...... where I had to slow down as it bounced to much...... U turn back on the road I shifted the Tcase from low range to high range....... was doing well in first....smooth crash in second and...... and...... when third gear engaged..... something let go in the transfer case and was left powerless in the middle of the road with Sunday drivers slowing down to look.......

So I let her roll backward onto the shoulder and ditch and screemed for help..... Rotters to the rescue.

We pulled it back to the barn with the tractor...... at first look the Tcase shifting handle was jammed and the t case was in neutral .......

We now understand that the high / low range lever may need adjustment to keep it from popping out.....because when it does pop out it jams the shifter lever and can only be corrected by removing the shiter lever (two bolts) and moving the shifting rods by hand using a very long screw driver.

Now for the headache...... to properly adjust the Tcase hi/lo range rod I will need to remove the floor plates and possibly drop the t case...... the shifting rod is designed so that it must be disconnected and rotated on itself to screw in or out for adjustment..... the linkage is NOT designed to allow disconnecting the shifting rods and do an adjustment in place...... &&%#**@

We will no doubt spend a whole weekend understanding how to do it...do it... and test it.

At this point we have one side of the truck on jack stands which helps us to rotate the drivetrain to facilitate the shifting diagnostics...... we will no doubt verify the 4x4 linkage and winch/PTO while we are deep in this process. The MB-C2 is of some help but cannot overcome the design nightmare of the machine itself.....

All in fun they say ...!

Will keep you posted of our findings.

Any comments/suggestions from other Pertronix user are welcomed
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Canada

Last edited by Bob Carriere; 17-08-09 at 21:13.
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  #148  
Old 17-08-09, 21:10
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
Posts: 5,213
Default Question for Phil

When you swapped the 261...... why did you stay with the 216 lighter flywheel and smaller clutch when you could have used the existing 261 parts..?

I am using the larger or heavier 261 flywheel as it stores more torque and kept the 11 inch clutch plate that originated with the 5 ton fuel truck.... clutch plate was machined and rebuilt with HD springs...clutch plate relined and grooved for cooling.....

Just curious....

BooB
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  #149  
Old 18-08-09, 03:57
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RHClarke RHClarke is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Ottawa Area
Posts: 2,325
Default Quick Run Down South

I have some chores to attend to in Southern Ontario. So I will be making a high speed run to the Toronto area soon.

If anyone in Ottawa wants something delivered down south (nothing too large) PM me. If anyone down Toronto way wants something delivered to the Ottawa area, let me know and we will arrange a pick up time and location. Kick in for fuel, and I will deliver the goods to where you want them...
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  #150  
Old 18-08-09, 04:11
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Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP) Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP) is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Toronto, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 5,400
Default

If you're in Toronto and either (a) want a break or (b), need a bed, call me. You're welcome anytime, mate...
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