#31
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G'day Sam,
Looks like you are having loads of fun with the trailer project! Good to see that you are achieving results. I also live in Bundaberg. If you would like to catch-up or could use a hand with something please send me a Private Message. Good luck with the rest of the trailer restoration. Kind regards Lionel
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1940 Chevrolet MCP with Holden Built Cab (30 CWT). 1935 REO Speed Wagon. 1963 Series 2A Army Ambulance ARN 112-211 Series III ex-Military Land Rovers x 2 |
#32
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Lionel, PM sent.
Hi all, As I am missing some brake parts, the hunt is on for some replacements. By posting some pictures, someone may recognize the parts or know of similar sized easy-to-find replacements. So, the backing plate uses eight 5/8" mounting bolts and has adjustable anchor pins. One needed. The brakes are 16" diameter and 3 1/8" wide. Here are the shoes with the hand brake mechanism attached. Two pair needed. This brass bracket bolts into the backing plate to carry the handbrake cable. I don't need any of these, but they may help someone recognize the brakes. And the wheel cylinder is 1 1/2" diameter and 97mm long. The mounting bolts are 3/8"UNC at 2 1/8" centers and the mounting hole in the backing plate is 1 3/4" dia. Fluid fitting is a banjo bolt with a 1/2" thread. Anyone recognize these cylinders? Any info on these trailers is scarce, so to find a parts listing, let alone parts available is laughable! Anyone got any suggestions to help me here? Regards. Sam. |
#33
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Hi all,
The next job I did was to remove the handbrake linkages. I learned a couple of things. It is becoming increasingly clear that this trailer has had some modifications over the years, some more, um . . . , agricultural, than others. So another ongoing job is trying to work out what is original and what is a modification. Anyway, just getting to the linkage in the center of the frame was pretty tricky and restricted. Here is some that was easily visible. The lever shaft closest to the camera has something to do with the handbrake actuation equipment that goes to the rear of the trailer. Some pictures earlier in this thread show a small handwheel at the rear of the trailer between the ramps mounting points, it is used to apply/release the handbrake. This system is missing, so in the absence of a picture of an original one (anyone?), I need to design and build a new one sometime. Some of the nuts had to be removed with a cold chisel and others defied any mechanical sense in their design. But I got it all out of the frame. It was at this stage I realized that the mounting plate for the handbrake handle was previously welded to both the frame and the front end pivot shaft!!! Fortunately the welds were poor quality (thus probably not original) and had broken off the front end shaft. The picture below is taken from below looking up between the frame and the front end pivot shaft. Sometime, it is going to surrender to the grinder and be carefully redesigned during re-assembly. I like to assign a clear engineering name to the parts I'm working with, but the "front end pivot shaft" eludes a label that I'm happy with (yeah, I know, who cares?). Enjoy. Sam, downunder. |
#34
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wheel brake cylinder
Quote:
The wheel cylinders are a Ford part but used on all CMP trucks plus most Canadian-built trailers, so it looks like a likely application for your trailer.
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Regards, Hanno -------------------------- |
#35
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Thanks for that Hanno, I can follow that up locally.
One small job was to straighten a small section of the rear gunnel. I figured that a bit of porta-power grunt and applied big hammer work would do the trick. And so it did. I wonder if the good condition of the deck is due to it having a grain bin on it for most of its' life. Enjoy. Sam. |
#36
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Now, to the front end.
Hi all,
With some trepidation, I made a start on disassembling the front end. After hunting around a bit I managed to find a socket that would fit the 2 3/8"AF nut. It was 3/4" drive which I was not confident about. Anyway, after 3 meters of cheater bars and bending my 36" pipe wrench handle, I decided to add some heat. It is easy to add too much heat such that the material softens so that it can 'pick up' or broach inside. Despite some sniffing around, I have not been able to find the temperature range for mild steel where beyond that is very little to be gained but lots to lose when using heat to expand some material to loosen it. Anyway, that is what happened! In the end, I had to cut the nut off. So sometime will be a major bolt re-building job. Next job was to remove the steering pivot bolt. So I added some pressure, around 20 tons, I estimated. Plus some sledge hammer encouragement all without any action. So time to add more heat, carefully. It didn't help that I did not know the design of the pin which was still out of sight. So, as seen below, I managed to get the whole frame/pin assembly up to about 200deg C. Note that I removed the chains and porta-power as they would not handle the heat real well! Then removed the fire, refitted the porta-power and applied a good lot of pressure. The main caution I had was around a chain breaking and bits flying off like shrapnel. I added several wire ties to act as whiplash arrestors. The chain was 5/16" Herc-alloy with a working load of around 1.2 tons. Then six legs gives around 7 tons. Then I wandered into the safety margin, which is around 200%, while standing well back. A pause, then sledge hammer applied. Nothing. Stepped away, added a bit more pressure, waited, hammer again. After a few cycles of this, applying the hammer to the enormous hex head of the pin under the frame, without any warning, the whole pin flew out the bottom the the frame with a great crash! As it turned out, there is a large diameter 1 1/2" long section under the head of the pin where all the tightness was. Wow! I'm glad that job is done. One more job done. Enjoy. Sam. |
#37
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Hi all,
I have compared the CMP wheel cylinders with the remaining LRT ones and they are very similar. The mounting bolts are so close that a very little massaging of the mounting holes and they will bolt up. Yeah! The cylinder is the same diameter and about 1/8" (3mm) longer, which is of no consequence. The pistons are different, engaging the brake shoe in a different manner. However, the manufacture of replacement pistons on the lathe should be a fairly straightforward exercise. In order to strip out the timber decking, I first unloaded the loading ramps. Using my none-too-accurate crane scales, they weighed out at 170kgs, less than I thought, but still a solid 6 man lift! Then stripped out the decking and removed the many cup-head bolts with a cutoff wheel on the angle grinder. Earlier this week I was able to collect the special spanner I had made at the laser cutters. The tang on the right side is to use a hammer on, if needed. There is a spanner type specifically to use a big hammer on, called a flogging spanner. The idea came from that. It fits perfectly, making an otherwise difficult removal into a bearable but slow process. As the keyways (slots) on the nut are at 90° intervals, it worked out that by 'clocking' the handle away from a key by 22.5° (half of 45°) allows 45° bites at the nut instead of 90° increments by flipping the spanner over then back again later. Much easier. So hopefully it won't be too long before I can get the rockers and trunnion disassembled. Enjoy. Sam. |
#38
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Back to the front end.
Anyway, back to disassembling the front end.
The towing A frame was a poor fit in its' brackets. This will be fixed when reassembling it. (Don't ask how. I dunno yet!) After the removal of the pivot bolt, the front axle frame could be removed and inspected. Other than the axle bolts (4 on each side) being corroded away to nothing, and so having nothing to grip to extract them with, there are no apparent problems, just very heavy. Next was the front trunnion removal which started with the brass bush caps being removed. They did not want to move, but were gently coerced! The front cap was easier to move, but even then the trunnion wanted to stay in place. In the end, it was brute force! Done! But way too heavy for me to man-handle. I have a pallet jack that does a lot of the heavy handling. So far, so good. Enjoy. Sam. |
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