How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Warning acknowledged.

I’m slowly working away at installing the harness. So far I’ve used 5 clips just for the wires either side of the engine.

Overload protection? Would this be the current limiting device that is mounted to the backside of the dash?

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

Warning acknowledged......


Overload protection? Would this be the current limiting device that is mounted to the backside of the dash?

Hi Jordan

Yes, that's the current limiting device I'm speaking of. Of the three of these on my trucks only one actually worked to limit the current. It vibrated to beat the band to limit current at 30-40 amps when bench tested. The other two would pass 40 amps with not a sound.

The first the one on the HUP I used, the other two I did not use, instead putting a modern thermo braker in, forget if I used 30 or 40 amp units. Now as I think about it think going back and adding a 30-35 amp fusible link at the point where the main harness picks up power at the starter might be a good idea. Now that your work as reminded me I should go back and add it to all three of my trucks.

Other thread over the years have discussed the value of adding a battery disconnect switch. I used a marine battery switch on my C60S when I installed the 261 engine. It let's me run truck on 6 volt normal conditions, then if for any reason the truck doesn't start I can switch just the starter over to 12 volts. In either position the trucks normal electric system only gets 6 volts. The switch as an off possition as well. The 12 volt battery normally just drives the water pump for the shower, lights in the shower/toilet and the modern radios in the cab.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

The harness still isn’t fully installed yet. I’ve been busy working on some side projects the past week or so. However I did manage to get the following parts all finished and installed on the truck these past few days. The radiator shroud turned out looking great. I made up some wooden forms for the dished part. My first attempt didn’t go well but my second was bang on. I even spot welded just like the originals. I did have a minor fit issue with the bottom of the shroud and the lower radiator outlet.

[Jordan Baker]

Once I cut out a minor section the shroud went on just fine. I also made up a felt strip for the top shroud to seal against the bottom of the top tank. I used stainless safety wire for the felt staples. Now the radiator is all done and ready to go on.

[David Dunlop]

Things are looking good, Jordan!

David

[Alex van de Wetering]

Lovely work on the rad and shrouds, Jordan. It seems you work just as easy with steel as you do with styrene!

[Pete Ashby]

Very nice work Jordan

Pete