#31
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Clarification
Hi Stew: I think you know this story ...so
Radial engines have a tendency to collect oil in the bottom cylinders and can create a hydrostatic lock up situation if you try to start them without first eliminating any collected oil. Usually you turn the engine through several revolution to evacuate oil from the cylinders or you could remove the spark plugs and drain it. In a tank engine your supposed to handcrank the starter 50 times to turn the engine over ( through the starter reduction) to clear oil. Oil is not compressible. If you crank or are able to start the engine without clearing the oil, you will have major problems- bent link rods, broken pistons, jugs that are fractured off the crankcase etc. The story goes as I heard it was, that once the radial powered vehicle in Bill Greggs collection got away from Rockwood (Bill and Stew), at some later time it was damaged when someone unfamiliar with correct procedures attempted to start it. Anyone familiar with a radial engine would not make this error. WW2 vets told me they would "bump" the engine a little at a time with the electric starter so they would not have to hand crank it. |
#32
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I withnessed Bill start up procedure....
On a visit to the farm Bill offered us a drive..... and we cranked and we cranked..... Bill had instrcuted us that the engine needed 100 turn of the crank to get 2 full revolution of the engine and amptly expalined why. After pulling a battery cart that must have weighted half as much as the tank... cables were connected and a laborious starting process began.... took a while for all cylinders to fire in an orderly fashion........ and the oily smoke insured there would be no mosquitoes.
Cheers Bob C
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#33
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Batteries, smoke and roar...
Ah the good old days!!
When I first started playing with radial engines a friend and I would start them in his garage with a separate fuel and oil tank. After starting and running the first one we quickly learned that it needed to be attached at the top to a ceiling joist - because that engine just about took off as we cranked on the carb fuel supply before the governor kicked in ! Lots of torque and with magneto ignition a runaway engine would be hard to shut down until it ran out of fuel. By the way all the engines I ever ran had high oil pressure in the 60-70 pounds region while running. We also learned to prime the dry sump oil system thoroughly before running the engine so that we had oil in those weak - link bearings and didn't unintentionally wreck something. |
#34
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Just to close the loop on this thread, the R975-C1 engine with its 5 broken connecting rods is now a display engine at the museum. The Sexton remains engineless.
A restorable Centurion is now my focus. The ironic thing is we have four Rolls-Royce Meteor engines in various states of repair here, leading one to assume we could make a good one from all the parts for a reasonable cost. But in reality, the cheapest option seems to be to buy a rebuilt one one from these guys for $10,000. And it comes loaded with all the accessories. http://www.newenglandboatandmotor.co...gines-for-sale |
#35
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Call them up and offer on trade all the surplus engines and components you have. Might be an easy trade or a minimal investment with little to no work.
If they are in the business of rebuilding and re-using these engines, would be a lot less headaches than trying to rebuild what you have on hand.
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1981 MANAC 3/4T CDN trailer 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
#36
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more..
Not to belabour the point -either the Sexton vehicle itself is worth fixing or its not, engines aside. While it is rough and has much armor missing itsall flat steel and could be rebuilt. Options for engines are many, 6-71 detroits`seem the popular choice. With respect to radials you can get a complete core and OH parts for10K, when you havefinished overhauling it the market value is about 25k, not a bad return for your investment of money and time!
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#37
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Quote:
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#38
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Quote:
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#39
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I get it!
I understand about limited funds for many projects.You have plenty to look after there I know! There is material out there. At the Littlefield auction (California) today, what appears to have been a clean overhauled, complete Rolls Royce Meteor V12 sold for US $3500. By the time you add taxes, commissions shipping off the estate etc it probably closer to $4500 CDN but thats not too bad. (still got to get it home) A clean (rebuilt??) centurion differential went for $200. Most expensive bid of the day was a whopping $17,000 for five baskets of used, rusty and rough looking parts (including a radiator) for a Chrysler multibank engine.
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