My Blitz's

[Scott Hamilton]

Just wishing to share my first Blitz trucks that I have just aquired.

Excited about my first restorations.

Still looking for builders plates so I can identify build date etc.

I also got in the deal - six rims/tyres, spare motor, canvas door, three fuel tanks, two spare doors.

Not sure how I plan to finish them of in regards to colour or rear body type.

As you can possibly see they are both Holden built bodies, ( rectangular side vents ) and the short wheel base version even still has the Holden badge on top of the engine cover.

[Luke R]

Looks like a good start for a resto project,
Looking forward to seeing it progress.

Luke

[Keith Webb]

The C15A looks like it has traces of it's ARN painted on the front shell under the windscreens. This is your best chance in the absence of data plates (usually on top of the dash) to establish what they were.

The second truck has the dished wheels fitted usually to C60S tippers, so that may be a clue as to it's former identity.

You'll find the chassis number stamped on the vertical face of the front left chassis rail.

Where are you located?

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Just wishing to share my first Blitz trucks that I have just aquired.

Excited about my first restorations.

Still looking for buiders plates so I can identify build date etc.

I also got in the deal - six rims/tyres, spare motor, canvas door, three fuel tanks, two spare doors.

Not sure how I plan to finish them of in regards to colour or rear body type.

As you can possibly see they are both Holden built bodies, ( rectangular side vents ) and the short wheel base version even still has the Holden badge on top of the engine cover.

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Has anyone seen the type of dash switch panel in the second photo ? All the photos I have come across do not show this type of switch panel.

This is a reasonably common conversion of the earlier dash to military instruments.

[hrpearce]

Hi Scott My C15A has that switch plate and I have seen a picture of one like it on MLU also on a C15A. With yours thats 3 I've seen with the five switches across the top. Mine has the insert with the round instruments as well.

[hrpearce]

The engines look like 216's to me going on the steam pipe on the back of the heads and the pivot point for the accelerator linkage behind the exhaust pipe.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

First Rides In CMPs are memorable, nice looking C60L for your first ride. The long wheelbase 158" do ride different than the short C60S 134" or 101" wheelbase. The long wheelbase is much more stable on the road but have a huge turning radius, while the 134" has a much smaller turning radius but is squirely on the road above 40 MPH. Guess what I'm trying to say is that each one is distinctive.


First time I drove one was when over to look at my HUP and take it for a test drive. The kid I bought/trade from had never been able to shift it so he was surprised to be taken for a drive and have it go through all the gears. I had to wait another 6 years before I saw another CMP and got to ride in one with somebody else driving.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

Hi Scott,

Looks like a good find!

Have you checked that 20" wheel/tyres fit in that tyre carrier?
Seeing yours got me wondering whether mine (orig.) is big enough for 20" too. I will need to look tomorrow.

Your first pic of a tool box looks exactly same as mine, so I HOPE it is original . It is even the same color. Mine has several rust holes though. Yours looks to be better than that.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

You may have invented a new MLU game Name that hole?

Looking at your photos some of the holes are obvious like the groups of 5 holes fore and aft of the transfer-case mounts are for the gas tank as are the large single hole forward of those is the fuel line.

Are there any in particular that you are curious about then we see who can name them?

Interesting the layout for the winch is different than my Pat 12 C60L.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers Phil

[Bob McNeill]

simply bolts on the rear, same as front output. Where in this wide brown land is your patch as postage may be more than the bits worth. Dubbo swap on tomorrow.

[hrpearce]

Scott if you get desperate for parts I have them and google maps say you can walk from your place to mine in 224 hours

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Scott Hamilton

Not an update but more of a number of questions that someone may be able to answer.

.....

2. Where would I find the horn button assembly for these steering wheels fitted to these vehicles as I have been having no luck in locating the correct type?

Hi Scott

I think that the button and all the parts associated with it are the same as used on the CCKWs. Probably an off the shelf part off some truck of the period, but I have not found it in listed online with any of the Chevy Parts suppliers.

Bob check my memory those NOS horn assemblies we found at Weare a few years ago were CCKW weren't they?

Cheers Phil

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

First here is the information on the horn button

HUP Parts Info 002.jpg

Found these a couple of years ago as NOS sorry only bought the one which I used on my HUP. But it hopefully will give you some part numbers.

Now to your question about the sender units for the M35 my volt-ohm meter started giving funky readings about that time so I didn't get to check the resistance of these units. So after your reminder I send an e-mail to an electrical engineer who happens to collect M35s so hopefully he will get back to me with an answer soon.

Now the M35 sender looks like it would fit



Can someone confirm what the senders range was in Ohms for CMP?

Strange you should mention the fuel gauge sender today as I was working on one of the senders in my HUP today that has not worked since getting the truck back on the road last month. Turned out the cork float had sunk.

Cheers Phil

[hrpearce]

Ross Prince-- 07 41244075, E-mail rossprince @ y7mail.com Scott if you are coming to Corowa it's a great place to arange pickup of heavy parts.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Scott

I've been driving my HUP for 30+ years with the original 216 as installed in 1945 the engine had never been apart until this year. See http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...AUL%202011.htm for explanation of why it is apart now.

Take a look at the engine pages on my web page to get a little more understanding of the 216 splash lubrication system.

The only real draw back is that the engine system was designed 70 years ago when road speeds were lower. Most of the problems people have had with the 216 is when they try to drive it at high speed 50 MPH and higher for long periods of time.

The other problem is the 84 hp is ok hauling a C15 around but has a little more trouble hauling C60 on the road, modern traffic doesn't understand that truck slow down on hills. Having said that I've never been on a trail ride that my HUP or C60L with the 216 they could not climb anything a jeep could climb they just do it slower.

Cheers

[Grant Bowker]

I agree it looks like a 216.
The steam fitting wasn't on commercial engines of the period (or any of the later 235 or 261 that could have been put in easily). Although they could have transplanted the steam fitting to a later engine they were more often tossed.
The tin cover for the push rods looks as if it extends to the height of the valve cover so that would make it a 216 or possibly a very early 235.
The valve cover with oil bath breather and fill point is a correct for CMP part. Again, if the engine was being changed odds are they would have used the valve cover from the replacement engine rather than going to the trouble of swapping the covers.
The carbs look to be Carter rather than Zenith or the Rochesters you would expect on late 235 or 261 engines.
You also have the period correct (3rd photo) takeoff below the carb for the brake booster, another part that often goes missing.
I think it all points to original CMP engines.
About the engines - By modern standards they are feeble for the weight but you already knew that. The "splash" lubrication system is criticized by many but seemed to work reasonably in it's day by flowing large volume at low pressure. Like every oil system dirt is an enemy as well as people who won't read the book when doing work on systems they aren't fully familiar with. Babbit bearings aren't as easy to replace as the newer insert bearings but went through a lot of abuse without leaving all owners stranded. I believe it is possible to convert engines from babbit to insert bearings (for a price) if you want to keep what looks to be an original engine but find the babbit bearings bad. There are also outfits who will redo babbit bearings, again it comes at a cost.
Keep in mind my comments are from the North American perspective, not Australian. I have no idea if later engines were the same wrt carb etc in both areas. Not sure why they would have been different, but it is possible.

[hrpearce]

Hi Scott, I still have the original 216 in my C15A 1943. Because I operate in steep country at low speeds I keep the sump 1L over full.

[Ganmain Tony]

Seems you Chevy guys need to experience the pressure fed system that came standard in a Ford Blitz.

That V8 really cant be beat....

[hrpearce]

Tony I don't operate too well under pressure being a nervious type

[Mike K]

Scott

turn it upside down and give it a few sharp downward taps onto a piece of wood . The element should fall out

MIKE