Scout T5329

[Ben]

A Liverpool head is the shallower dome found on the outside of the carrier armour, snap the bigger semi circular type (and the forming tool) there is also a cap head that is the same semi circular head but proportionally bigger compared to the shank size.

It was a great place. They haven't had a "rivet while you wait" job before but there was plenty to absorb so I didn't mind hanging about.

[RichardT10829]

great stuff. brings back memories when i did mine.

[kevin powles]

Hi, Nice to see it coming together, will you be getting it grit blasted before painting?, I would recommend this, don't leave it in primer for to long, what's the colour scheme you have chosen?.

Kevin, do you need any cross tube gaitors?.

[Ben]

Yes it going to a local company that have a blasting room and spray booth at the same site. Total sand blast, primer and top coat all in a couple of days. I'm keeping the original painted reg number and laquering over it to protect it the rest will be as it left the factory, khaki green no3. This way I can apply its later schemes over the top as it was done during the war.

It could be KG3 for a few years, then it's N Africa scheme then the Aus camo, all correct for the vehicle showing its progression through the war.

[gordon]

I use SET and SNAP on the T-36 but never heard of Liverpool till now.

One thing about the blasting though. If you have a word with the blasting company, they can spend a little extra time on the new plate to get it to the same surface roughness as the original, before they prime and paint.

I've seen similar jobs where they have just blasted, primed, and painted, and the flatter, shinier finish on the new metal was very obvious.

It should take just a few minutes during the blast process to match up the surface profile and might make all the difference to the end result by making the new and old metal visually the same. Many blasters will just sweep blast the new metal if you didn't ask them specially to do the little extra.

Just a thought.

[Ben]

I know Carl at the blasters pretty well, I've already sorted a couple of grades of grit to get it matched up. That being said the armour on the scout is very nice and has very little pitting, getting it all to match shouldn't be too hard........ I hope.

[gordon]

It's one of those things that is so easy to miss on the way past and a complete bu**er to fix afterwards.

It would be nice to do those colour schemes in order too, as presumably when you do the second and third variations you can just do the outside and main internal areas, and the 'original' colour will show up everywhere you just don't quite get to.

[RichardT10829]

Just to throw in a shameless sales pitch... I can provide the required snaps, (Liverpool, flush, and cap / button head) for those that have armour to rivet up.

[tankbarrell]

Originally Posted by gordon

Paint coding for the tool types too. I can work out the snap and flush tools, but what's a Liverpool, then?

A Liverpool head is a slightly domed countersunk.

[Ben]

The Scout has been blasted and painted over the last couple of days. Very pleased with the results. The new armour has got the slight texture the rest of the vehicle has from age but not the unevenness that you can only get from the real deal rolled armour.
Overall I'm very pleased and i think it looks the part. Just needs a little time to bed in and let the paint go off 100%
I made four castor wheels to make life easier moving it around. I can push the hull around by myself like a shopping trolly in the workshop, they're just the job. It took two of us to load and unload onto the trailer, one to winch the other to steer.
Now the real work starts............

pics.
In the booth, still wet. just after unloading and back inside the workshop ready to have bits bolted on.

Ben

[RichardT10829]

Nice and clean it takes seconds for the paint to get scuffed and fouled up you may want to put some sections of card over the heavy traffic area's.


She looks a million bucks though and I am green with envy... Get her painted caunter quick !!!

[Ben]

Does anyone know the bearing number for the bearing that's at the bottom of the steering column?

Thanks

Ben

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by Ben

Does anyone know the bearing number for the bearing that's at the bottom of the steering column?

Thanks

Ben

Hi Ben,
If you have the TL number or any other army number from the parts list, let me know as I have a British wartime cross reference list to give sizes and bearing makers part numbers.

[RichardT10829]

i think It's the same bearing that goes in the cam rollers mate, and cam plate spigot (from memory) either that or it's the same as the return rollers.


Sorry that does not help you at all really

[Ben]

I've just been searching the past posts and Doug mentions SKF RM8, is an RMS8 the same thing?

Ben

[kevin powles]

Hi, glad your cArrier is taking shape, that bearing is a special double ball type, have you the remains of the old one, I managed to get two off ebay some time ago but was lucky, can't remember the number but there is a thread on here. If you find a source I need three more.

Simply bearing. Co.uk £26 plus vat. Rm8 self aligning.

How is the other carrier coming?.

Kevin.

[Richard Farrant]

Originally Posted by Ben

I've just been searching the past posts and Doug mentions SKF RM8, is an RMS8 the same thing?

Ben

Hi Ben,
There was a RM8 bearing specified in Carrier, the army stock number was MT7/28622. It is a double row ball bearing 1" x 2.5" x 0.75", the number is the same size as RMS8 which is a single row ball bearing which is easily available.

I also found a thread from 2011, here:
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/ar...p/t-16669.html

[Lynn Eades]

I cannot remember the part number. It is an imperial bearing, the bore size being 1.000" The Australians saw a bit of common sense and changed theirs to a metric 6305 (standard metric annular grooved) which is what the cam rollers and cam plate pivot bearing is. The metric 6305 is 62x25x19 so the imperial bearing has a bigger bore, and a smaller O.D.
Back to the imperial bearing, it is quite expensive, and hard to find, but as has been stated here, a few vendors in the U.K list them ( not around the rest of the planet) (RM8 = 2 1/2" x 1.0" x 3/4") If you can get a non self aligning bearing in the right size (I think the RM8 is just annular groove) It should work just fine. Phew!
BTW the self aligning bearing is supposed to have the lowest rolling resistance.

[Ben]

Thanks. The single row comes out at about £3 each the twin row self aligning about £25.

The British column has no bearing and as Lynn says the LP ones that came with the scout is a different size.

Ben

[eddy8men]

I like the carrier ben, it looks really good

[Ben]

Cheers Rick.

Bearings....... Checked today, SKF RM8 on the bottom of the column, SKF 6305 on the cam and rollers. The RM8 is missing so I'll need to get one, about £25..... The 6305 are much cheaper at about £4 each, the only change I'll make is to get sealed bearings for the cam and rollers. It'll save any dust or water getting in. The ones that came out are very rusty, fortunately the bolts and roller inners are gleaming.

What's the standard finish on the cam? Doesn't look to be painted, were they just well greased on the faces?

Ben

[Lynn Eades]

Ben, and anyone else, just the standard caution, check the cam plate bore and column dia. against what you are buying, before doing so.
I can't answer about the cam plate finish. Mine have always been too rusted to tell.
FYI. the only other bearings that are imperial sized in the carrier are those in the fan extension. (British style)

[kevin powles]

Ben, I just bought 3 of the RM8's from simplybearings.co.uk they also do the carrier wheel bearing 6408 at £20 each.

I think once you have cleaned up your cam, cover it with grease. Before you put your cam bearings in, pop one seal and add some more grease, (they never come with sufficient grease). Also don't put your radiator in yet !, consider tack welding your cam plate mounting plate left side retaining nuts to the carrier floor, that way later on if you have to drop the cam you can just unscrew the bolts out from the bottom (my plate is missing some left side bolts due to the sheer impossibility of fitting them with carrier engine/radiator/cooler assembled!).

Anyone got details pics of the cam plate canvas cover, not the drivers compartment rod cover but the rarely seen cam roller covers, I think Richard had a pic of this when he bought his carrier.

Ben, Also before you fit your cross tube, lay in your gear change connecting rod under it!!.

kev.

[Ben]

Bearings ordered and on the way. I'm off to paint a selection of bits and bobs later.

Cross tube will probably be the next job, the radiator won't go in until after the engine is in I would think, too easy to damage.

Does anyone have any of the conduit elbows that fit to be back of the division plate spare? I don't think I have enough. I need to track down some of the shielded flexi pipe that the speedo cable runs down and a long length of bike brake cable for the Arens control.

Ben

[RichardT10829]

I have some if you want to make some more from them they are just cast... I also have dies and benders for making the old style conduit.

[RichardT10829]

Also Dirk has the speedo cables and if you need the drive sprocket for the speedo, Marc made copies from mine... He may still have details to make more.

[Ben]

Thanks Richie

I'll keep you in mind for benders.........I've got the speedo cable and drive gear it's the spiral type outer protector I'm after about 8mm diameter I think.

Ben

[Doug Lavoie]

Ben,
Some where in the threads on the cam plate there was a thin spacer / washer required when putting things together. You may want to check out the reinstallation sequence of the bits. If memory serves, someone went to the effort of installing all but the spacer and had to undue all the work. Not a nice thing.
Doug

[Ben]

I collected the rear axle from Richard Farrant's workshop last week, he was a great help and it allowed for me to carry on with some of the other parts whilst it was at his.
It was in very good condition generally but a couple of bits were broken or missing. Thanks to those of you helped find the missing parts.
The shoes were relined and the inside of the drums machined to match, I suspect the axle may have been serviced at some point as there was an excess of preservative on one half shaft rather than oil but the internals all look to be original. Sentinel wagon being cast into the inside of the drums and 1937 new Hudson shoes, i believe new Hudson was acquired by Girling a little later. A lot of the bolts and fittings are marked with TL numbers and 37 dates. Interestingly many of the components look to be made by smaller companies but all have an army inspection stamps. The axle has the Ford script in the outer casing.

[Ben]

Once it was all back together and painted it was ready to fit it back on the hull. It went straight back on with no issues. While I was at it, I fitted the cross tube. I'm waiting for some bolts then I can fit the leather seal around the ends.
Front idlers are ready to be fitted as well but again I'm waiting for the bolts.

I've got lots of the smaller parts ready but a bigger pile of bits to be blasted and painted. I'll probably try and do a few days of prep work on parts then have fitting days.

It's nice to see bits going back on.