I'll concur with Seans method with the addition of a prybar wedged so as to apply pressure on the tie rod to the knuckle. Hammer only the knuckle at the end near the hole.
Ideally you have someone else pushing (up or down as the case may be) the pry bar and then you hit the knuckle with a couple of sharp blows. Problem with trying to do both yourself is that it is hard to work a hammer and recover in time to save your knuckles when the bar moves as the tie rod comes free.
This is the method we were taught in trade school 20 ++ years ago. I have since seen tie rod pullers and of course the tie rod forks (which usually ruin the rubber boot over the tie rod) but none of them has the constant success of the hammer and the bar method. Not sure if it deforms the hole appreciably, likely not since the tapered stud is inside protecting the general shape.
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10-06-05, 15:45
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