Field phone and switchboard inter-operability

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by Chris Suslowicz

I think the remote handset is entirely passive, and powered from the J1 or J2 box in Wireless Harness 'B' (soft-skinned vehicles) or the equivalent in AFVs. (I must sort my library into some kind of order; I can't find the appropriate manuals at the moment.) The buzzer or other tone generator is in the J1 control box (from memory).

WD1 is identical to D10 cable. (D9 never made it into service, I can't remember exactly why, but suspect the insulation wasn't robust enough, and why D10 had a protective outer layer of Nylon over the PVC. The earlier telephone cables (D1 to D8) were a cloth-covered rubber insulated type, with wax (Ozokerite?) impregnated jacket. I've got the details somewhere.)

Chris.

I know a fast way to dull any knife is to try to cut WD1 wire! And yes, I think it was the J1 box on the C42. It's been a long time since I had to remember those designations!

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh

I know a fast way to dull any knife is to try to cut WD1 wire! And yes, I think it was the J1 box on the C42. It's been a long time since I had to remember those designations!

D10 (or WD1) is four strands of tinned copper and three strands of tinned steel wire as I recall. It's hard to cut even with the approved tools (Pliers, Side-Cutting or Diagonal Nippers - and I can't remember if the Hellerman Jointing Tool had a dedicated cutter built in (I suspect it must have)).

Earlier field cables also had steel strands for strength (and copper for conductivity), and I suspect the change from 5-inch Pliers, Side Cutting to the 8-inch version (that necessitated the issue of a larger "Pouch, Tools, Lineman") was due to the difficulty of cutting the later cables with the lower leverage of the 5-inch ones. (There were also pliers with replaceable cutting jaw inserts at one point!)

Chris. (I remember making the (time consuming) "bound-in" joints, and having to insulate the thing with fabric tape, then waterproof the whole bodge with self-amalgamating rubber tape. I also remember the "Self-Soldering sleeves" that were quicker to use but not as robust. The Hellerman crimp sleeve joints were much faster and more reliable.)