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If you are curious you may want to check the existing thermostat that you have..... and find out what setting it has..... of course you need to drain the block and drain some of the coolant...... while the radiator drains slowly and only half drained is OK..... start boiling yourself a cup of tea..... you know this HUP is a British design..... with your thermo stat removged and rinsed tie tring to it and suspended it in the hot water.....use your wife;s best cooking thermometer.....wait until the temperature of the water is near what the numbers are stamped on your thermostat..... if it says 185 F it should be fully open at that temperature AND returned to shutting when it cools. Some modern thermostat are design to open and stay open.... they call it fail safe position.... get rid of that and use a normal open old style thermostat......around 180 F........
If you do remove your radiator to have a radiator shop solder a threaded fitting for a steamline it might be a good time to have the radiator boiled out by the rad shop BUT do tell them to test for leaks at ONLY 2 or 3 pounds of pressure as these CMP radiators are not run under any pressure... ..meanwhile when the rad is removed try flushing the engine coolant core with some rad cleaner to see if you have any build up of rust sediment in the block........... on the passenger side....left side.... near the bell housing you should have a drain pet cock that allows you to drain even the lowest part of the engine cooling system...... it should flow slowly or you have deposit in the coolant passages...... try with a piece of steel wire to work it free... if not close the valve and wait for the next engine rebuild.... Sorry if Imissed correcting some typo Ihad too mcvuh wine with supper.....
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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....from my truck or overall collection.....
Having problems with my software tonite but here are some photos.... firts one shows my early attempt at making a bypass on the water pump....notice that I am using a 216 Water pump with an adapter plate onmy 261 engine...... second photo.......Carburator is a rebuilt YF689....work real good...... after market fuel filter with glass bowl...... because I had to plug the original vacuum connection on the intake manifold with a brass plug I needed to create new vacuum connection site .....so I had a solid steel plate milled as a spacer below the carb...... this allows the connection for the wipers and a vacuum gauge onthe dash.......NOW right behind is the testing connections that I put together that allowed me to connect a temp.gauge and the steam line to the engine....in your case you willneed an adapter to the head.... the T fitting..... a line to the radiator and again an adapter that is suitable for the bulb of your temperature gauge. You can see the green coolant n the temporary plastic tubing........ I would run my truck in the field for 30 minutes with the v\lave closed than stopped and open the valve and watch all the froth/foam green coolant purge itself....... if I drive leaving the valve open it only shows the occasional bubble....I concluded that it needed to be in place. I eventually replaced the whole set up with a permanent steel tube to the rad...... if that fooaming coolant stays inthe head for too long you risk over heating and possibly warping the head with resulting cylinder head gasket leaking. I will post other photos as I find relevant pictures..... Please do hesitate if you have any other questions........ For the strong of heart....... I ust run my stock rebuilt 261 engine at 2000 rpm at 32 mph or close to 3000 rpm flat out for brief scary moments around 44 mph. I just finished a 652 miles cruise on abandoned logging roads in less than 3 days....... mostly in 2nd and 3rd gear....4x4 hi range....lost some body screws and bolts to vibration and leaked a shock absorber with airborne jumps and bumps...... truck did good I was busted....never again but now it is scratched off my bucket list.......also lost all brakes..... but being a good CMP and having engraved in my mind the brake adjustemnt process, I spent 20 minutes in a church parking lots readjusting each wheel with a 3/4 in, spanner and the two snail nuts on the backing plate of each wheel..... presto brakes again/////// but it was fun!!!
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada Last edited by Bob Carriere; 23-09-24 at 03:21. |
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At least in all my remaining parts I found a connection
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