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#1
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Detail pictures of the fuel tank. It’s pretty solid but did rupture during the fire. My thoughts are to repair this tank vs making a new one.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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Some more pictures
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#3
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That is an interesting arrangement, Jordan. Two tanks sharing a common end wall?
Did the two halves feed to a common selector valve, and I assume that would also mean a selector switch as well at the dash to be able to read both tanks as required. David |
#4
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Hi David.
Yes it’s one tank construction but divided in the middle. There is also a baffle on each side. Two drains and two fill ports. Two fuel senders as well. Two fuel lines run in the frame rail up to a standard CMP type 3 way fuel selector valve. On the dash there is one fuel gauge with a tank selector switch.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#5
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I think I'd be willing to give it a go for repair.
The obvious caution is to be at least 100% sure any gas fumes are gone before applying heat/flame to restore the solder joint(s) that opened up (or for any other reason). When I was doing my CMP tanks, I put a shop-vac to blow into the tanks for a couple of days out in the sun to warm and ventilate. I used the mark 1 nose as fume detector, do you know anyone who has access to combustible fume detectors? (Occupational safety, fire investigator, police/military bomb section etc.) There don't seem to be sharp creases - good news - gentle persuasion can work instead of needing brute force. If you aren't sure of safe soldering in your shop, you might be able to do the straightening and joint preparation and farm out the soldering to a radiator shop. One of the challenges will be to get to the corners of the tank to apply outward pressure if needed. One end looks as if it is enough de-soldered that it might be worth considering finishing removing the end cap to make it easier to restore the end cap and tank body and then reinstall the refurbished end. |
#6
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Since it has already been in a fire and exploded I doubt that there are any combustable fumes in it ! I think it will straighten out quite well once you remove the damaged end plate which will probably be the hardest part. I assume it is spot welded or crimped on prior to soldering to seal it ?
David |
#7
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Based solely on your photos, Jordan, that tank looks a lot shorter than a pair of 15-cwt tanks would be, sitting end to end, but it looks a lot chubbier. It must have been fun to fill in the field.
David |
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