Mk2 carrier tow hitch on a Mk1

[rob love]

I am at the workshop now where I have a carrier from 2PPCLI sitting a few feet from my desk. I held the left towing bracket nearby to the carrier, and noticed the pick handle bracket appears to have been notched to allow the installation of the towing bracket. Perhaps that is the route to go.
I won't be getting my carrier out until the weather warms up at least 30 or 40 degrees. It's -15C outside right now, which is the heat of the day, so perhaps in April.

[Colin Alford]

Rob,

Attached is a very old image of a pick/shovel/pry bar bracket on a mortar carrier that appears to be notched in the same manner as the one on the 2PPCLI carrier.

The outdoor image of the hitch on a Mk1* is another old image, but it gives a general view in decent light

There are also a couple of images taken today of a notch job that appears more crude than the other examples.

[Colin Alford]

Here are some images of the notching on the POW can holder. It was done rather crudely but the cans still fit.

[Colin Alford]

Here are some images of the conduit and underside of the switch/light bracket plus a couple of wider angle images. The carrier is currently shoe-horned into its storage location which does allow any long distance images.

That’s all for now,

Colin

[rob love]

Thanks Colin.
My research today showed 3 different of the shovel/pick handle brackets for the carriers. They are:
TL12151 "When stock exhausted use CTL12151"
CTL12151A "Used with "bolted to hull type" towing hook
CTL12151B Used with "spring type" tow hook

I had a look at the 2VP carrier bracket today and found a 1944 date on it. The part number is likely underneath the plate. Since this carrier was made up of mk1 and mk2 parts, my bet is that this carrier has the mk2 CTL12151B bracket, which will allow the hitch bracket to work with it.

My angle iron piece on the top of the brackets also has some modification to work with the mk1 carrier. They notched the lamp bracket so they did not have to cut into the POW bracket, and made a new plate above the angle for a steel CMP type lamp instead of the rubber one originally on the lamp bracket. My theory is the lamp in it's original spot would also have interfered with the POW bracket.

[rob love]

Looking at your last batch of photos Colin, that angle brace is very tight and higher than I had hoped. It is not looking good for the existing registration plate as there would not be much left of it if I were to cut it. We'll see what I come up with.

[Colin Alford]

Rob,

I was going to have a look at the parts list to see if there were different variations of the shovel/ pick handle bracket, but you have beat me to it. (After a recent update of my iPad, it took an incredibly frustrating amount of clicks to re-size and upload the pictures above. I had to walk away to calm down for a few minutes).

The modifications done to your cross bar to clear the POW can holder appear to be a better solution than my example. Yes, on the un-modified cross bar the lamp interferes with the right edge of the can holder.

Years ago I found some “walk around” images of another Mk1* with the hitch fitted. My recollection is that the carrier was in Ontario and it had a WD number which was only a couple of digits different. I recall that it had a virtually identical crude cut/weld job on the POW can holder. I suspect that both might have had hitches fitted in the same shop.

Do you know any history of the carrier that donated your hitch? My initial impression is that these might have been in-service mods, as I doubt any farmers would have gone through the trouble of preserving the functionality of the POW can holder, and ensuring that they had functioning tail/ convoy lights.

Colin

[rob love]

Looking at that POW carrier modification in your photo brings a tear to my eye. You would think, after they figured out what had to be cut on the first one, the could just cut out the required portion and not have to take out the whole corner, and crudely replace the upper portion.

The carrier that donated my hitch belongs to a family in Southern On. It does not appear to have any civilian modifictions done to it, and is rough/unrestored but fairly complete. The owner(s) do not want to sell, so I consider myself fortunate to have been able to purchase this piece.

Another option I am considering is to leave the angle iron piece off altogether, or else notch it where it meets the number plate. I won't notch the original of course, but make up a repro. I'll see which way the wind is blowing come springtime. If I can keep the original mk1 tailight with the red/white switch, that is my preference.

[Colin Alford]

Rob,

I agree that it is an ugly job. I am happy that no-one I know did the work, but it is an interesting part of the vehicle’s history.

I would think that you would want some sort of cross bar to mechanically tie the two sides together. I do have a somewhat rusty and bent registration plate hiding somewhere. If I can remember where it is hiding, I can take some pictures of it roughly in location to assist in developing a solution.

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by rob love

I am at the workshop now where I have a carrier from 2PPCLI sitting a few feet from my desk. I held the left towing bracket nearby to the carrier, and noticed the pick handle bracket appears to have been notched to allow the installation of the towing bracket. Perhaps that is the route to go.....

Sigh. You have the life!

[Dave Schindel]

Rob, is this fender gap for installation of the towing attachment? It's on my MKII and I do not have the hitch for it. I would like to get the proper fenders if possible but am unsure of what I have here.
Any thoughts or suggestions/
Dave

Bren Gun Carrier 195.jpg

[Ron Pier]

That's how mine are on my MK2. Without the Stacey attachments, I guess you would need some packing pieces (hardwood?) or re-weld the flanges in a different position. Ron

[Dave Schindel]

Ron, yes, I was thinking of making wood packing or spacers. I wonder if the factory used different fenders for carriers w/o hitches?

[Ron Pier]

Dave I just looked in the parts book. The numbers for those rear guards are
CTL 14326B for the RH side and CTL 14327B for the LH side. These are for vehicles fitted with the sprung hook.

Without the hook the "B" is substituted for an "A". so the guards are different. Simple enough for a welder to modify yours though. Ron

[Dave Schindel]

Thanks Ron. What I am going to do is get the fender holes lined up a bit better and install a couple wood spacers to take up the gap.