Wheel rim repair or not

[rob love]

Brazing is not the same strength as welding. I do not see any kind of heads on those studs, so it is just the braze holding in that tremendous amount of force from coming apart and killing you.

I personally would either get another rim, or remove those studs, clean all signs of brazing, and weld them in properly.

The otter parts manual lists them as the rim for the 9.00-16 and the 10.50-16 tires. Sounds like they are the bog standard 16" rim. I would take Barry's offer of a new rim if I were you.

[Bob Phillips]

Hi Jordan, same comment as Barry, (not to undercut his generous offer) but I have several available perhaps a little closer if you want to runup to Guelph and get some. Bob

[Bob Carriere]

.....I would have spare rims for you as well........

Redoing the studs would need some expensive lathe work to make sure the two halves of the rims are properly and evenly centered..... that is why the nuts are the self centering type with similar self centering spacer both on the brake drum and the wheel nuts.

That thing is only good for filling with cement and used as a base stand for a grinder......

All rims suspected of being defective that we have run across were either cut/torched for scrape or for those with just one broken studs marked with the welder on both halves "YARD USE" ....... being used for bare frames or yard hulks......facilitates moving them around with the tractor.

[Jordan Baker]

Nothing special about the rim. It’s a standard 9.00x16 CMP rim. It had a very old and worn out British War Department tire on it. At some point in its life the studs had all been replaced… no idea why

This one won’t be used and scrapped.

Thanks for the offers on the rims guys. I believe I’ve still got 4 good ones for the Otter anyway.

[tankbarrell]

They look more like nickel welds to me, sensible if the studs are high tensile but I'm not sure I would trust them without a head on them.... I wouldn't use it like that and agree with the consensus.