How To: 1944 Chev HUW restoration

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

...using the wreckhouse 'sawzall' method (when you absolutely completely don't care about saving the tire). One down, 3 to go. And if it goes like this one 'sawzall' is my 'tyre remouveure' method of choice for the rest.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

In preparation of the engine coming back I used some of the brown paint I had mixed for the first time. Due to new (very frustrating) rules I can no longer get the chalky matt I wanted and was used on CMPs. This semi gloss alkyd enamel was the best I could find. The first coat dried more glossy than I liked but the second coat using more reducer and a slower application gave me a respectable matt I can live with. I'm quite happy with the No. 2 SCC Brown colour match.

Pics of the engine bay ready for the 216, the painted right door frame and of course the engine as pretty as it gets.

[David Dunlop]

Nice progress, Bruce, in spite of the challenges modern paints seem to throw at us.


David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

Nice progress, Bruce, in spite of the challenges modern paints seem to throw at us.


David

I was talking to a restorer at the Oshawa museum a week or so ago. They are restoring a 1942 HUW that I sold them decades ago. The work in progress had a nice very matt brown paint applied to parts of it. Apparently you can get the new water based paint in any colour you like and as matt as you like. I didn't know this was possible when I mixed my paint and even today I don't like the $180 a gallon price tag, and there's something about a base coat required first?

Still, it's nice to know that if I win the lottery I can get some decent CMP paint.

[David Dunlop]

One of the things I still have to look into for the 52-Set is possibly powder coating the flat No. 2 Brown onto the Carriers No. 4 and Remote receiver Case. Fortunately, still down the road a bit.

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

One of the things I still have to look into for the 52-Set is possibly powder coating the flat No. 2 Brown onto the Carriers No. 4 and Remote receiver Case. Fortunately, still down the road a bit.

David

The big thing that got me in the past was radio gear wrinkle paint. For a while you could still get wrinkle paint but only in black (and some times it didn't wrinkle too good). I was able in most cases to paint the right colour over the black and it was OK until it got scratched. Sadly I haven't seen wrinkle paint for many years now.

[Harry Moon]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

The big thing that got me in the past was radio gear wrinkle paint. For a while you could still get wrinkle paint but only in black (and some times it didn't wrinkle too good). I was able in most cases to paint the right colour over the black and it was OK until it got scratched. Sadly I haven't seen wrinkle paint for many years now.

the trick to applying crinkle paint is to preheat the object to be painted, in my case Hemi valve covers, about 110F in the oven for ten minutes and then spray from a well ajitated can that was sitting in a pot of hot water for a five minutes.
Try performance shops as Mopar used crinkle paint on a lot of things in the 60's 70's

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

One of the things I still have to look into for the 52-Set is possibly powder coating the flat No. 2 Brown onto the Carriers No. 4 and Remote receiver Case. Fortunately, still down the road a bit.

David

Dave, what you really want (and me too) is the correct colour of brown wrinkle paint in a rattle can. Oh to dream...

[David Dunlop]

Hi Bruce.

I fear that might be a thought that walks the line between a Dream and a Nightmare these days.

On doing some research into wrinkle paints a few years ago, the magic ingredient is apparently a product known as 'Tang Oil'. The ratio of it, the reducer and the oil based paint can be varied to alter the final appearance of the wrinkle finish, but an additional requirement, as Harry mentioned, is that the drying temperature and time are also factors that assist in obtaining the desired wrinkle finish. This can range from a smooth 'frosty' look, rather like Black Granite Countertop all the way up through grained leather to very heavy wrinkle.

The principle is basic enough. The paint is mixed as required and applied. The reducer evaporates at the surface creating a skin over the Tang Oil still in the mix. As the Tang Oil dries out underneath, the paint skin created on top collapses and starts to wrinkle up. changes to temperature and time dictate how much wrinkle forms as the trapped paint shrinks and drys up.

Back in the 1980's, Don Wright in Edmonton, looked into No.2 Brown wrinkle fin ish for his 52-Set. Very few paint shops back then still knew how to work with it. Those that did advised the tang oil came in very large quantities and was expensive. Now we are dealing with rapidly disappearing oil based paints in general and to my knowledge, water based wrinkle paints don't exist.

A local machine shop to me does work with powder coatings and I am going to visit them this summer to see what I can find out about them in better detail. Will keep you posted.


David

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

...using the wreckhouse 'sawzall' method (when you absolutely completely don't care about saving the tire). One down, 3 to go. And if it goes like this one 'sawzall' is my 'tyre remouveure' method of choice for the rest.

Been there. I used a chain saw . It works well, just be careful. The original Morris CS8 tyres were run flats - no spare wheel was provided.

BTW thanks for the info on the modern water based paints, your engine is looking better than new !