How To: Remove valves from a Ford flat head

[Alastair Thomas]

Then it was cut into three 0.4” lengths. The idea was to slip the three pieces under the head of the valve into the valve port. The first piece was generously tapered to ensure that it could not catch on the small land round the top of the valveguide. The second piece was left square top and bottom and the top piece was relieved better to fit the underside of the head of the valve.
Employing the valve stops
First the engine is turned until the valve opens. By means of a pair of screwdrivers, the valve is levered fully opened. It is important to avoid bending the valve by levering unevenly under the head of the valve.
The valve stops are slipped onto the valve stem one by one in the right order. It is important to avoid the stops sliding down the exhaust port. A little grease in the valve stop gives it sufficient stickiness to avoid this.
The valve is then released to settle on the stops, the engine turned to get to the back of the cam lobe, and the head tapped with a hammer to force the valveguide down by 1/8” and the “C” clip can be removed. The valve head is lifted once more and spacers placed between the tappet and the foot of the valve. The engine is turned to bring the tappet to the top of the cam lobe and the spring, which will bind if sufficient packing has been introduced, will push the valve, valveguide and spring out. It may take two goes, introducing more packing after the first go but the assembly will pop out. Have a care. Place a blanket over the valve for this last stage as, otherwise, the assembly will travel some distance across the garage as it did in my case taking a chip of paint out of my pride and joy, a 1948 Riley.
Afterword
If you have read this far you may have been shouting at your computer saying, “But there is a much easier way”. If so then please tell me, I have another of these engines to tinker with.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Alastair,

Interesting following your efforts to remove the valves.

Here is an interesting vintage tool, Australian made, by the Litchfield Tool Company of Sydney.

Similar to what you did by getting the valve up and sliding the "spoon" under the head to knock out the two halves.

I actually never used it as my engine is a '46 with the straight stems. Once the valves and springs were out a brass drift and a hammer got the solid guides out.

Added photo of homemade spring tool. No need to spend lots of money for an expensive commercially made pickle fork. I made one from a $5 pry bar (made from spring steel) how appropriate, with a notch ground in the end. May need to strategically place a block of wood behind it for a fulcrum but it worked for me.

Hope this is of some interest.

Cheers,

[Alastair Thomas]

Thanks, Jaques.
That is just the sort of information I was seeking. I had seen reference to a tool but no description nor picture,
I will now think how to make one.
Thanks again,
Alastair

[Jacques Reed]

Glad to help.

I believe Litchfield Tool Co. is still in business. Pity they cannot dust off the old dies and strike a few hundred of the tools. They would have a ready market worldwide.

Cheers,

[Lynn Eades]

If you plan to strip out an engine that has been sitting for a long time, a vigorous soaking with a penetrant pre the job can help a lot.

[Dave Newcomb]

The site most popular with the Early Ford V8 Club international is Fordbarn.com
All the knowledgeable/expeirenced fellows are there. Dave N

[Mike K]

Used to be an old tool/engineering supply shop in central Melbourne called Ryan's ? They sold the flathead Ford V8 valve removal tool , I think it was their own design, a specially shaped length of rod that was hollowed out to fit around the valve head/stem from above so you could tap the split guides down.

They had an old fashioned overhead trolley system for the cash, you paid at the counter and a trolley would take the cash up to a mezzanine floor and the trolley would bring back your change . I remember buying a valve seat syncro seating tool there.