How To: Remove valves from a Ford flat head

[Alastair Thomas]

Why does the valveguide not get pressed out of its bore by the pressure of the valve spring? Well the designer thought of that. He incorporated a “C” shaped clip in the groove shown above.
This clip is secured in a recess in the block.
In order to remove the “C” clip it is necessary to move the valveguide down away from the block to allow the “C” clip to emerge from the recess in the casting. Once this is done, the clip can be removed and then the valve assembly can be removed upwards. This last step is not straight forward but more of that later.
Valves in position

[Alastair Thomas]

Removing the “C” clip
All the above is easy to say but there are many words written and YouTube videos made to describe the removal of the “C” clip.
The official method is to use a “pickle fork”. These are obtainable from various sources at a price. The pickle fork comprises a bar up to 2ft long with a spade end with a slot in it.
The idea is to wiggle the spade end through the coils of the valve spring and engage the slot in a slot provided at the lower end of the valveguide. It is indicated in the illustration above and, if you say to yourself, “I cannot make it out”, that is true to life as it is difficult to see. The pickle fork is then used to lever the valveguide down until the clip is revealed and remove it.
In my case I got four clips out this way, the valveguide failed to move in eight positions and the end came off the valveguide in another four positions.
This eventuality is meat and drink to the YouTube videos and learned articles and I realised that I was following in the footsteps of 90 years worth of mechanics tales.
Suggested solutions fell into two camps: the first was to remove the “C” clip by brute force. To do this you are expected to get in there with just the right size of Mole grip, clamp the tab on the “C” clip tightly and then drive the clip out by hitting the Mole grip with a hammer (up to 10 times according to one article). Though this system clearly works for them, I could not grip the tab firmly enough with any of my tools.
Another way was to make a special ”U” shaped tool with a hook on the end, hook it in the hole in the tab of the “C” clip and hit the tool with a hammer (again 10 times was claimed to be sufficient).
The second solution was to get in there with a cut off disk, cut the valve spring and then the valve stem. The valve can then be removed and the spring discarded. The valveguide can then be tapped down into the valve chamber and removed.
An alternative method of removing the “C” clip
I could not employ the brutal method of removing the “C” clip so considered the cutting method. I even bought a small air powered cut off tool as none of my angle grinders would get into the restricted space in the valve chest. However I could not bring myself to use it firstly because it is brutal and secondly I hate the idea of all the grinding dust in my engine. Instead I decided to push the valveguide down using the valve. This is a time consuming and fiddly method but, if the time saved in not having to remove the grinding dust from the engine, and the cost saved of not having to replace the valves and springs, then it becomes more attractive.
I started by making some stops to put under the valve head. I first turned a piece of brass 1” diameter by 1.5” long and bored a 7/16” hole through the middle. The result was then set up in the (homemade) vertical slide and a 7/16” slot milled down the side. Setting up was a bit tricky but I used the traditional point-in-the-chuck and a-rule-on-the-work method to ensure that everything was properly aligned.
Milling the slot

[Alastair Thomas]

Then it was cut into three 0.4” lengths. The idea was to slip the three pieces under the head of the valve into the valve port. The first piece was generously tapered to ensure that it could not catch on the small land round the top of the valveguide. The second piece was left square top and bottom and the top piece was relieved better to fit the underside of the head of the valve.
Employing the valve stops
First the engine is turned until the valve opens. By means of a pair of screwdrivers, the valve is levered fully opened. It is important to avoid bending the valve by levering unevenly under the head of the valve.
The valve stops are slipped onto the valve stem one by one in the right order. It is important to avoid the stops sliding down the exhaust port. A little grease in the valve stop gives it sufficient stickiness to avoid this.
The valve is then released to settle on the stops, the engine turned to get to the back of the cam lobe, and the head tapped with a hammer to force the valveguide down by 1/8” and the “C” clip can be removed. The valve head is lifted once more and spacers placed between the tappet and the foot of the valve. The engine is turned to bring the tappet to the top of the cam lobe and the spring, which will bind if sufficient packing has been introduced, will push the valve, valveguide and spring out. It may take two goes, introducing more packing after the first go but the assembly will pop out. Have a care. Place a blanket over the valve for this last stage as, otherwise, the assembly will travel some distance across the garage as it did in my case taking a chip of paint out of my pride and joy, a 1948 Riley.
Afterword
If you have read this far you may have been shouting at your computer saying, “But there is a much easier way”. If so then please tell me, I have another of these engines to tinker with.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Alastair,

Interesting following your efforts to remove the valves.

Here is an interesting vintage tool, Australian made, by the Litchfield Tool Company of Sydney.

Similar to what you did by getting the valve up and sliding the "spoon" under the head to knock out the two halves.

I actually never used it as my engine is a '46 with the straight stems. Once the valves and springs were out a brass drift and a hammer got the solid guides out.

Added photo of homemade spring tool. No need to spend lots of money for an expensive commercially made pickle fork. I made one from a $5 pry bar (made from spring steel) how appropriate, with a notch ground in the end. May need to strategically place a block of wood behind it for a fulcrum but it worked for me.

Hope this is of some interest.

Cheers,

[Alastair Thomas]

Thanks, Jaques.
That is just the sort of information I was seeking. I had seen reference to a tool but no description nor picture,
I will now think how to make one.
Thanks again,
Alastair

[Jacques Reed]

Glad to help.

I believe Litchfield Tool Co. is still in business. Pity they cannot dust off the old dies and strike a few hundred of the tools. They would have a ready market worldwide.

Cheers,

[Lynn Eades]

If you plan to strip out an engine that has been sitting for a long time, a vigorous soaking with a penetrant pre the job can help a lot.