How To: 1944 Chev HUW restoration

[David Dunlop]

Good progress overall, Bruce.


David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

It is inevitable that any post war CMP Chev owner who ever removed the original 216 engine cut the cab crossmember located roughly between the transmission and bell housing. It isn't necessary, but it simplifies the engine removal and replacement because you don't have to remove the transmission shift tower. So just lazy.

My HUW suffered this fate together with some other nips and cuts to the floor for who know what but, thanks to a donor piece of channel from another Chev and some creative welding, the damage has been undone.

New piece fitted, clamped and then welded in place. I only hope all those post war users weren't right after all and the transmission really does fit under the cross member. MBC2 says it does... It also restored the obviously necessary starter lever that is attached to that crossmember.

[Jordan Baker]

I had that issue even with the shift tower off. I had to jack up the rear cab frame as much as it would go to get the transmission in.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

I had that issue even with the shift tower off. I had to jack up the rear cab frame as much as it would go to get the transmission in.

In theory it should work. My gap is 11-1/4" and the transmission without tha tower is 11". I think any angle at all due to the engine/transmission combo on the hoist will make it tight. The manual makes it sound so easy: disconnect everything, remove the transmission tower and push the truck out from under the engine. I have left myself the ability to lift the body if required; there are only two of the eight body bolts holding things together and they are finger tight.

The other thing that may change the angle is that the HUP series of engines sits lower in the front than in C-15As and bigger. Those have a cast spacer on the front engine mount absent in Heavy Utilities.

HUW/HUP cab floor and toe boards are different as well but that is another story. Let's just say it's irritating doing things twice once you realize there's a difference (and the better of the two that were straight and without rust holes were the wrong ones).

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Window test fitted to the rear door. It will need some tweaking and a rubber seal between the frame and the door.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

i finished up the repairs on the cab and front cowl and they got a coat of primer today.

i did find one odd thing perhaps another HUP/HUW owner can verify. On the cowl, passenger side floor there was a rough hole about an inch long and maybe 3/8" wide. Because it was rough and it somewhat matched another hole punched through the front just inboard of the headlamp socket I figured 'bubba' did it post war and I patched both holes. But when I looked at the underside of the hole through the cowl floor I saw that the sheet metal panel where it was was factory notched, perfectly rectangular. Bubba would not have done that even if he could reach it. So I think I patched a factory hole. But for what? Could it be the wire to the map lamp? I've attached a sketch of what might be if anyone can confirm or deny.

[Jordan Baker]

Map lamp wires would be on the cab frame under the windshield and not the nose.