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  #1  
Old 29-09-21, 17:22
David Herbert David Herbert is offline
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Location: Ayrshire, Scotland - previously Suffolk
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Jordan,
I have a spot welder similar to yours and one of the best things I did was to make a copper cap that fits onto one of the electrodes. It is about 20mm diameter and long, drilled half way through to very loosely fit the electrode but still be able to rock a bit. The top of it is flat but with the edge a little rounded so as not to mark the job. Using this on the 'good' side of the job it avoids the sharp edged dimples that you get from a small spot weld. Obviously you can't use one of these on both sides as it wouldn't be a spot weld then and you do have to use a little more heat but it is easy to get really nice clean and strong welds this way.

David
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  #2  
Old 30-09-21, 03:12
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Thanks for the advice. This spot welder works great with both electrodes on both sides. You just need to make sure hat both pieces of metal are very tight together.

I decided with fresh eyes to totally remake the one magazine box. I realized after looking at the stowage diagram that the magazine’s fit in with the open end on top. I had made the dividers just a little too too narrow to do this.
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #3  
Old 01-10-21, 02:52
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Tricks on spot welders....

Keep your tip clean........ frequent light filing...... clean the steel with acetone.... I use a flat tip on the bottom side and a pointed tip on top...... make sure they sit absolutely flat. ....to keep the long reach of the rods from touching wrap them up with fiberglass tape intended for exhaust pipe manifold from Summit....... use locking pliers on each side of the spot weld when possible........ I often have a third hand helping me (Grant) we hold the spot welder steady on the work bench..... I carry the work to the welder and he fires while I hold it in place.....

Above all...... take the time to test out on scrap pieces...... each time you set up...... so you can adjust the timing.......if it blows or throws sparks something is wrong....too hot too long or not flat......

3 layers is possible but very tricky....... such as door skins!!!! Using the flat head leaves hardly any mark on the finished side.

.....but they do work nice!!!!!!!
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C15a Cab 11
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  #4  
Old 01-10-21, 20:29
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Making a second tail light bracket. The right side one is original with extra holes added by the Dutch army post war. The extra holes were welded up and the new one made from 11ga plate. Another small part finished.
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg A65F4283-19AF-46ED-B2C3-9A4B5F69404B.jpeg (144.5 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpeg 1B6F97AD-0E22-4095-9547-0A4A71BF01A1.jpeg (221.5 KB, 2 views)
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Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #5  
Old 01-10-21, 20:33
m606paz m606paz is offline
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Well done Jordan!
your works are very inspiring!
Thanks for sharing!
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1944 Ariel W/NG
1945 FGT FAT
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  #6  
Old 03-10-21, 03:19
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Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Front fender removed. At some point in the Otters life the fender flares on all fenders had all been bent in. Now the process of bending them back begins. I also have to make a new front left fender.
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Jordan Baker
RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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  #7  
Old 10-10-21, 17:41
Jordan Baker's Avatar
Jordan Baker Jordan Baker is offline
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Two new to be Otter pictures. Interior pictures are rather rare.

The turret down shows what looks to be a strap mounting matching the remains of what I found on the magazine rack.
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File Type: jpeg 24195CA0-23C0-4988-B427-9C9773B3B54A.jpeg (284.3 KB, 7 views)
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RHLI Museum,
Otter LRC
C15A-Wire3, 1944
Willys MB, 1942
10cwt Canadian trailer
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