Lynx II, hull # 4225

[rob love]

They didn't have it back then, but we have it now: Loctite.

[Robin Craig]

Dear Peter,

Despite being at the same event you and I have not talked since.

Watching you in the arena while we were waiting to come in, the death wobble in the front end was only too visible to myself both times you came around. I can only imagine what it was like to handle. I wondered if tire pressures and or the tire size itself or construction had any part to play.

I ask this as the Supacat ATMP tends to be driven too fast off road by users. There is no suspension, so the tires give a bounce which can be violent if the right speed is achieved, operators have to be mindful of that.

I agree with Rob Love, Loctite, I use that $%^& on everything (appropriate strengths of course)

[Harry Moon]

I use the same 1050x16 tires and every now and then I get that wobble. Then it goes away. Haven’t really found out why but the only thing that was different is that it was soon after I used a tire shine to clean up the tires. Maybe sun on one side. Still a mystery to me as it comes and goes.

[Jordan Baker]

Glad no real damage was done to the radiator. I echo what Rob says about Loctite. That should keep the bolts from backing off. I think your other alternative will be constant pretrip inspection of them to make sure everything is tight before hand.

As for the wobble. Do your steering knuckles use the New Departure pivot bearing with shims? Going by some of your pictures the basic steering knuckles look very similar to the CMP ones. Is there any side to side play on the wheels if you jack up the front of Lynx? When I rebuilt my truck I was sure to follow the step by step instructions in he manual for getting these setup with the shims.

[Peter Duggan]

Guys,
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions, I can definitely use them.
Dry fitted the ratchet bolt and didn't like how tight the bolt sides were to the dished end of the double pulley. Not enough room to use a socket without shaving it paper thin. The bolt head was 1 3/8".
I rooted around my meager but growing parts bin and found a ratchet bolt which was 1 1/8" across, the threaded portion was identical to the first one.
After a good cleanup it will be installed with some medium locktight.

Once the back end is buttoned up the focus will shift to the front end and the shimmy problem. I suspect this will be more challenging.
Peter

rachet1.jpg

rachet2.jpg

[Tony Smith]

I know they fit, and are original parts, but Gawd! Those ratchet bolts look shocking. When so much else of the work you have done is to a high standard, have you considered new replacements?

Third Gen Automotive sell a lot of NOS original parts and complement that with a range of quality repro parts.

Often, either to clear the shelves or to stimulate interest, they list Ebay auctions starting at $0.01.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/39360307813...8AAOSwr8BeO6FJ

You might need to ask a question first to confirm the hex size to ensure it will suit your situation.

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, I'd suggest that your ratchet bolt is more for show than use. It is far more likely to have the crankhandle start spinning with the engine after it has started, than one of the originals.
I have seen this. I was in the Army on exercise in the J in Malaysia. I started a 150 Cu Ft. fridge (Onan 2 cylinder diesel as I recall) In this case the handle had a sprung loaded wedge. These handles are short but heavy cast steel with a wooden handle. "Anyhoo" it spun with the engine (straight up to high idle) and then flew off. It hit a man in the side of the head quite hard, knocking him to the ground. I honestly expected it to kill him, but after a few minutes he seemed o.k. The guy was a Singaporean bus driver, working for the N.Z. Army. I never saw him again, but always think of this incident, whenever a crankhandle is involved. I think the slot cut of your bolt leaves a bit to be desired. Just sayin. Btw, I have one of them, small hex, better ratchet?