Info needed: Ford V8 water pump rebuild kits

[Mike K]

This 'how to' is focused on the post war water pumps but it has some relevance.

https://myflatheadford.com/b-b-1949-...mp-rebuilding/

[Mike Gurr]

I had almost forgotten this thread but an update to my earlier posts. The pump repair kits from Gotham Auto Parts were fitted and pleased to say have been very good. Now fitted for a year to 18 months and still sealing well. Before fitting it is important to have the inside face of the pump body machined perfectly smooth where the carbon disc runs to ensure a good seal. The only issue I had was not having run the Carrier for nearly a year during lockdown as I could not get to it the pumps did leak on first running the engine again, I assume this was due to rust having formed on the sealing face of the pump body as following more running the leak has stopped.

[Lynn Eades]

Mike if you put a corrosion inhibitor in the cooling system it should stop that. The other benefits of that are that it should Lube your pump seals(so it is said) and it will stop the buildup of scale which greatly assists in heat transfer and therefore a more effective cooling system. This is important with the Ford flattie because they are known as "hot" engines. Bearing in mind that the engine is trapped in a box, the air flow entirely comes from the windmill at the front.
I run a 3 5/16" bore (which increases the potential for trouble) but in saying that I have done every thing I can to keep her running within range. I run 180 degree thermostats and a 4 pound cap(I made an adapter to take a Morris Minor cap) The original pressure cap is supposed to relieve at 3.5 pounds (during WWII Ford upgraded their radiator seam laps because they were splitting) Waffle finished
I'll add James's contact details here again. I take no pecuniary benefit from James. He has just treated me like a valued customer.

James Saccoccio
Gotham Auto Parts,LLC
340 Cherry Street
Bedford Hills, NY 10507

sales@gothamautoparts.com
Tel: (718) 878-3699
Fax: (212) 519-790

[Lynn Eades]

Having just looked through the link that Mike posted, I would suggest the following:
First, the impellor is sacrificial. Don't try to save it. It's junk!
Second. Drill a series of small holes straight down into the impellor, in a line across it, in an imaginary line through the bearing center. (don't go too deep)( you want to go right through the impellor, just!)
Then increase the drill size and re-drill those holes.(hopefully merging the holes?) The idea is to form a line of weakness across the impellor. Then take a suitable sharpish cold chisel and split the impellor. This approach will take some risk out stuffing your pump housing.
You can then press the bearing out from the back of the pump and lastly you press the bearing from your (well supported) pulley.
On the seals. There is some variation in the componentry. The ones in Hanno's picture have more parts than the ones from James. I think Hanno's kit is earlier and is obviously a British kit. The bearing is the same. Some people have spent big money investing in improved modern made pumps. I'm too tight for that.

The above applies to lots of press assembled water pumps across different manufacturers.

[Mike K]

I admit to breaking a few 216 Chevy water pump housings while pressing out the shaft. It's so easy to break them if everything isn't set up just right.

[Mike Gurr]

Agree with all the above, the kit from James comes with a new impellor, all you re use is the pump body and the pulley.