How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

I had to pull the Chorehorse out the other day. It was leaking gasoline badly between the fuel tank and engine. In my rush to get it done I thought it was fine. However it wasn’t and it’s not something i would consider as safe. So apart it came. This also made me realize the fuel tank wasn’t as clean as I thought. There was a good layer of gummy and hardened fuel coating the entire tank. The fresh gasoline had softened it quite a bit. This was flushed out and some very hot water was put in then I poured in a bunch of the POR15 cleaner degreaser (formerly Marine Clean). I also put in a small fish tank heater and pump. This way I’m keeping everything warm and moving. After about 4 hours the tank was nearly spotless. It got a good hose down with a hot water hose.

I’ll be reusing the original gasket along with a skimming of No2 Form A Gasket. This will also be applied to the bolt threads as they are open holes into the fuel tank. The fuel check valve was also soaked in the cleaner and it good to go.

[David Dunlop]

Good thing to find soon, Jordan.

David

[Jordan Baker]

Small stuff being worked on. The 6v battery for the truck finally had its cover installed. I made up a wooden block to help hold the battery in place as it is a smaller battery then what the tray was designed for. I also put in a sheet of neoprene so that the positive terminal wouldn’t short hot on the cover. The battery box cover was an original item that got a fresh coat of paint. I copied the original inked on part number. Lastly the cab buzzer wiring was installed. Thanks to John Sek for the original buzzer block.

[David Dunlop]

Nice to see a Buzzer Assembly back in a WIRE Cab again. Been a long time.

A number of years back, I recall somebody in the USA selling new batteries for 1930’s and 1940’s Fords and Chevrolets. What I cannot recall is if these were fully functional batteries, or shells designed to have a more modern, smaller battery dropped into them and thereby disguised.

David

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks. It’s got a good buzz to it. I ran the wiring for it from the dash following the main harness then across the bottom side of the cab frame following the left fuel tank wiring. It then comes up into the rear box via the wiring hole in the floor. I’ve terminated it just under the charging board for now. This will have a disconnect before heading up to the roof level before the pull switch. My reasoning is that the Wire3 setup was to be removable from the cargo box for a remote setup. No idea if that’s how it was done but that’s what I’m doing. The wiring then doubles back on itself to the buzzer with single wiring going to the hot terminal. The return hookup on the buzzer uses the braided wire shielding with the common ground being the vehicle itself. It’s very simple and uses half the wire.

As for the 6v truck battery. I thought about that but with the sheet metal box cover I don’t plan on taking the battery out unless needed. The battery only supplies the needs of the enging, horn and lights. And with using LED bulbs there is hardly any drain. The starter is hooked up to a 12v battery in the Wire3 box. It is tied into the charging panel and the Chorehorse. The truck starts very well and fast since the coil gets the full 6v.

[Jordan Baker]

Ropes for the canvas all done and installed. I made up a mixture of beeswax and linseed oil and boiled it then soaked the ropes in it. 10 ropes in total and all had to be eye spliced onto the grommets. Lots of waxy work but my hands have never been softer.

[Jordan Baker]

A total of 60’ feet of rope is required. The following measurements were taken from my NOS 15cwt canvas top.