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Good Evening, Chris, and thanks for your comments. No rain felt here at all actually. We do have showers forecast for the day and a high of 8 degrees, but with 80% of our snow gone yesterday, I am not complaining at all!
I think I looked into that Hellerman/Tyton product a year or so back, though I am not sure why. I believe it was to do with some C42 Set cables I was considering making at the time. I ended up solving that problem by selling the set. Won’t be happening THIS time round, however. If I am correct in my recollections, there were some rather colourful nicknames floating about for the tool required to apply those H/T rubber sleeves and the tools were a tad pricy for the very limited use I would get from one. For this particular 52-Set cable, my first priority was to find the right cable type and get the finished length correct. Next, get as close to the original look as I could, based on the current availability of required parts. If I still smoked, I would say I would like to get close AND have the cigar! If I can figure out the length of required sleeve and a colour of yellow reasonably close to the rubber originals, I will be a happy camper. Lettering to go on the sleeve is another matter at the moment. I have yet to see close up details of any surviving such Leads and the images to date only show one small line “NO. C7” out of an as yet unknown number of lines. You are spot on with the number of versions of identification for cables during the war. I can also add to that list you posted with the 19-Set cable included in the last photo I posted. It is simply stamped with silver paint on the black rubber sleeve on each end lug with the cable ZA Number. Nothing else at all. Very cryptic and without a VAOS Reference at hand, quite a challenge to identify. Enjoy you evening, Chris, and thanks again! David |
#2
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I took some measurements off the Illustration in the Parts Manual and a photo of the complete set in the Operators Manual and dusted off my Proportional Algebra from High School this morning.
From the Illustration, I got a length for the ID Sleeve tucked up against the Pin Terminal Sleeve of 1.20 inches. From the Photo of the ID Sleeve a bit way up the Leads from the Pin Terminal, I get a measurement of 2.0 inches long for the ID Sleeve. The more I look at these two options, the more I think the differences reflect two, distinct types of ID Sleeves. Chris. Based on the typical tool used to apply the H/T style rubber sleeves on electrical wiring, is there a limit as to where on a piece of wire the tool can actually apply it? Most, if not all I have ever seen, have been at, or very close to the end of a wire, overlapping an end fitting, or butted directly against the end of same. So, if these rubber sleeve hand tools have a limited reach, I am thinking this might be the type of ID Sleeve that was on the Leads in the Illustration. In turn, the ID Sleeve in the Photo, is more likely a free moving type of sleeve of a differing type. Be nice to find some original surviving Leads to study. David |
#3
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1-5/8". There is one in captivity...
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#4
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Hi David,
Well, I've fished out the bag(s) of yellow sleeving - one continuous 5-metre length and a bag of "umpteen" (100) by 25mm sleeves, the set of 'bodkin' sleeving tools, a Larkspur aerial pigtail and the bottle of "Hellerine" lube. The "MJ8" bodkin takes the pigtail (which I assume is P11 cable) and I can slide a 25mm sleeve over it well enough - 50mm might be harder work to get it off the bodkin - probably needs a polish as there's a bit of surface spotting, and more Hellerine might help. I'm not sure the prongs on the pliers are long enough for much more than 25mm, and they're not immediately to hand anyway. (Also, the tool itself may not be strong enough to expand a 2-inch length of the sleeve unless it was softened by heating first.) Printing on the sleeve is going to need some suitable ink (craft shop or a company that prints on rubber) and probably metal type - though I've seen one-off cables with handwritten labels and a protective layer of varnish (probably applied later). Wording will probably be "CONN. SINGLE No. C7" or similar followed by the stores code. I've got "Leads, Aerial No.9" somewhere, spelled in full! I'll see what I can dig up, it might be an interesting project. ![]() Best regards, Chris. |
#5
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Hello Bruce.
Now that is nicely in the middle isn’t it. Good to know one has survived. If you get a chance, can you post some photos? It will give me something to think about during the next phase in the Reno. Chris. If you are pulling night shifts again, don’t stay up too late with this stuff. David |
#6
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Here you go...
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#7
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Ah, what do the ends look like, please?
The exact length would help (for possible forgery purposes) too. ![]() (Not that I have a WS52 nor am I likely to get one!) ![]() Best regards, Chris. |
#8
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Metal ends are 1/2" at 5/16" diameter and 9/16" at 1/8" diameter (1-1/16" total, and both ends are the same). Cable is 1/4" diameter 23-3/8" long between the backs of the metal end plugs, so overall cable length tip to metal tip is 23-3/8" plus 1-1/16" plus the other 1-1/16" or 25-1/2" tip to tip.
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#9
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Fantastic Pictures, Bruce. Thanks for posting with the specs!
Beats me what the original material was the ID Sleeve s fabricated from. It certainly does not look like the typical woven fabric, resin impregnated stuff one usually sees. The Sleeve you have looks very smooth with a consistent solid colour throughout it. The only cables I have on hand with yellow ID Sleeves that still have a look and feel of rubber or soft 'plastic' are on a pair of CPP-2 output cables and a late issue 19-Set Black Rubber 12-Pin Connector Cable from Set to Control Box. A 19-Set 3-Lead Battery Cable on Hand has one single cable yellow sleeve and a double wide yellow sleeve on it where the material is hard and 'plastic' feeling. Two other yellow ID Sleeves are on the Headgear Type 10's I plan to use with the 52-Set eventually, Photo attached. They are 1.25 inches in length, just slide up and down the cable are still pliable but feel more to the 'plastic side of things than rubber. I think I need to do some more thinking now. Cheers for now, David |
#10
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I can't break up the cable set I have (6 different leads, 2 with the screw-on spade connectors and 4 with different sizes of plug pin to simulate Aerial Rods B, and F, I think), but if I can get any more of the tips I will see about making a cable or two up. The lead is the standard Cable, Electric, P11 used all over the place for aerial feeder - usually black rubber covered. Best regards, Chris. |
#11
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Bah! Didn't find the aerial lead; I must have moved it to a different box in the 3-D Chinese sliding tile puzzle. Though I did find a box of surprisingly chunky cables, which it turns out are battery cables for the Switchboard, Charging, No.5 (presumably useless because they live in the Stowage unless you need to remove the set from the vehicle for use as a ground station with charging set).
Oh well... might get an early night for a change. Chris. |
#12
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#14
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Cables are thick rubber (about 0.75 inch diameter) or fabric-jacketed (about 0.5 inch) and Connector, Single, Nos. 24 and 24A-D. (Without going to look.) I will need one set for my charging switchboard, but the others will be available at a reasonable cost - shipping is likely to be the killer, they are definitely not lightweight. Best regards, Chris. (So much for getting a early night for a change.) ![]() |
#15
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Hello again, Chris.
I understand completely regarding the mails. Best the items in question stay put with you for the time being where they are safe and sound. There is little, if any, international air mail going anywhere these days. It is a service totally dependant on available space on commercial airline flights and with that service almost curtailed, it has dragged air mail down with it. We just received notification 10 days ago about an air mail parcel finally arriving at the Canada Customs Depot in Toronto. It was mailed from Barnsley, Yorkshire first week of December. I have another parcel mailed from Perth Australia mid November that has yet to get here. Thanks again for all your assistance. Now get some sleep! David |
#16
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Going to sleep right away, Sir!
![]() (falls into bed) zzzzzzzzzzzzzzz... |
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