Wireless Set No. 52 Canadian - Project

[David Dunlop]

As I had noted earlier, the Lock Assembly has been soaking in light oil for the last week. It took two days to get all the air bubbles out of it, so after that I was confident all the interior bits were fully immersed. I knew the cylinder was moving in its housing and the bolt moved back and forth about a 32nd of an inch but was not at all certain what state of corrosion, if any had evolved inside the lock. When I got the Sender home, I had flooded the cylinder with DeOxit and followed that with 3 in 1 Oil, but that was the extent of any work done on it.

When I pulled the lock out of its oil bath last night, I was pleasantly greeted with a lot of very fine grey ‘dust’ coming out of the keyway and from around the cylinder. I took that as a good sign.

At the locksmiths this morning, they had one cut key ready to go to try out in the lock. If it was OK, they would cut the remaining two I had ordered. The key went in easily but alarmed us all briefly when it would not turn at all. The bolt was in its withdrawn position and the natural instinct was to turn the key clockwise to extend the bolt. We went to anticlockwise mode on a whim and instantly, the cylinder turned and the bolt extended. Learned something new about the lock today. It is a one half-turn mechanism. I am not at all certain when this lock last had a key in it, but I am thrilled it now has a set and the lock is fully operational once more.

The reinstallation of the lock into the Sender was relatively straightforward. The really nice thing is the Power Switch is very stiffly fitted to the chassis by its wiring so tends to stay put. The first step of installation was to slip the lock back into place. Then install the spacer on the lower right corner between the back of the lock and the switch plate, drop the screw down into it and attaché the star washer and hex nut, just a couple of turns, Then using a pair of long, needle nose pliers, I was able to reach in with the spacer for the screw located top dead centre on the switch plate and drop its screw down through it, thereby holding the spacer in place. Then you can go back and install the lower left side spacer, screw, star washer and hex nut. Tighten both of these about half way.

The top screw will now be lined up close enough to its captive nut on the top of the switch plate; you can engage the screw in its nut with a screwdriver and secure it. Then go back and tighten the lower two screw assemblies and you are done.

David

[David Dunlop]

I had to review my notes on the weekend to confirm I started the physical cleaning and restoration work on the Sender back on 01 March 2020. It seems a lot longer than that!

Here are a couple of photos of what I started out with, and a pair showing what the Sender looks like now. I honestly did not think I would even come close to having it look like it does now.

David

[David Dunlop]

Thanks for the kind comment, Bruce.

I have a little reno project to do in the Rec Room now, which will be a nice diversion. It will also allow me to think about what to do next with the 52s-Set.

David

[Jordan Baker]

Very impressive and wonderful restoration. Thanks for such detailed posts every step of the way.

[James D Teel II]

I always admire a master artist at work. Your work is above reproach.

[David Dunlop]

Jordan and James. Thanks for your kind words. Much appreciated.

Well…I tried.

I got the Mini Home Reno started the other day, and so far so good, but I could not keep my hands or mind off the 52-St Project. So, late this afternoon, I made some decisions and played with it a bit to plan my future actions with it.

First step will be to go back to the Main Set Receiver to finish off a few details. The luminous markings on all of the Knobs, Phenolic on it are still there, but either very tired, or worn thin. They all need to be reapplied and this can be easily done with the receiver still in place in the Carriers No. 4.

While looking at all these knobs, I realized the luminous markings on the Flick Selector, HANDLES, No. 80 was also in poor condition and the original Gloss Navy Grey paint was badly chipped and covered in aging varnish. It too will be brought up to snuff and this can also be done with the receiver where it is.

The last little bit of cosmetic work will be redoing the two KNOBS, Metal No. C1, the two knobs for pulling the receiver out of the Carriers No. 4. Their Gloss Navy Grey paint is also badly chipped and covered in aged varnish. The upper one can be removed by simply taking off the upper front panel of the receiver, but the lower one requires the receiver be out of the Carriers No. 4. I will probably approach this as a two separate blocks of work. Batch out all the Knobs, Phenolic first, then pull the receiver out of the Carriers No. 4 and do the other three items that require the same paint treatment work.

David

[David Dunlop]

The other thing I did this afternoon was I hooked up the 52-Set Power Cable to my 12 Volt DC Supply System and fired up my CPP-2. After 15 minutes, the CPP-2 was on its lowest setting and producing a steady 12.30 Volts DC output at the unit. The output still measured 12.30 Volts at the Supply Distribution terminals the 52-Set Power Cable was connected to, so that was all OK.

At the 52-Set Supply Unit end of the Power Cable, the input to the Supply Unit was reading 12.28 volts steady. I attribute that small drop to the shear size of the power cable.

When I turn the 52-Set on at this point, only the Receiver Vibrator Supply portion of the Supply Unit is active, running the receiver only. It hums to life OK and I waited another 15 minutes for the receiver to warm up. Audio output arrives in about 30 seconds or so. What is interesting, however, is the Meter Readings I am getting for internal voltages. HT reads 130 Volts and LT 10 Volts. The manual states the readings should be HT 150 Volts and LT 12.5 Volts.

If you recall, when I was running the two receivers with the ZE-11 Remote Supply, the meter readings for both receivers were showing identical, higher than stated values which we traced to the slightly higher output the ZE-11 was producing as a result of getting 120 Volt AC input rather than the 115 Volt AC it was originally designed to receive.

So my thoughts at the moment are the Main Set Supply Unit, Receiver Vibrator Supply section has some issues and will need a closer look. Fortunately, it is easily removed from the Supply Unit so can be bench checked rather easily down the road. While at that point running the set this afternoon, I turned on the Crystal Calibrator in the receiver. LT on the Meter dropped to 9.5 Volts. Stayed there after 15 minutes.

Then I turned on the Sender Heaters on the Supply Unit. This simply preheats the valves in the Sender, so it is ready to respond quickly when needed. LT Reading on the Meter dropped to 9.0 Volts for this and stayed there. Interesting. This will give me a good starting point on the project when the Main Set Receiver final detailing is completed.

David