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Old 15-01-21, 17:51
Robert Bergeron's Avatar
Robert Bergeron Robert Bergeron is offline
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Default Warning signs

Original boxes had warning signs near the outlets . All i have seen is blurry pictures . Does someone have a clear definite picture depicting clearly the font and size of the letters ? Here is what i am working on with a local engraving firm . Comments ?
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44 GPW / 44 C-15-A Cab 13 Wireless 5 with 2K1 box X 2 /
44 U.C. No-2 MKII* /
10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer /
94 LSVW / 84 Iltis

Last edited by Robert Bergeron; 15-01-21 at 18:13.
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Old 15-01-21, 21:09
Gord Falk Gord Falk is offline
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Default Warning signs.

I do have the 110 volt brass plate, will have to check if I have two, let you know soon.(small item in my big mess)

Gord
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Old 16-01-21, 04:06
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Robert Bergeron Robert Bergeron is offline
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Default Voltage warning signs

Thanks Gord , very helpful. Here is a warning sign mentioning 12 V only near the outlet above the control box . My picture of Me Gibeau’s truck. This truck sits in the War Museum in Ottawa . There is no «*110 V only «* warning sign as the restoration respectfuly completely missed the point about the 110 V wiring being on every truck but actualy only used when it was equiped with an Onan generator .
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44 GPW / 44 C-15-A Cab 13 Wireless 5 with 2K1 box X 2 /
44 U.C. No-2 MKII* /
10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer /
94 LSVW / 84 Iltis

Last edited by Robert Bergeron; 16-01-21 at 04:28.
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Old 16-01-21, 04:13
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Robert Bergeron Robert Bergeron is offline
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Default 110 V warning sign

Here is the warning sign above the outlet with a red circle around it . Drawing by Bruce Parker 1980.
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44 GPW / 44 C-15-A Cab 13 Wireless 5 with 2K1 box X 2 /
44 U.C. No-2 MKII* /
10 Cwt Cdn Brantford Coach & Body trailer /
94 LSVW / 84 Iltis
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  #5  
Old 16-01-21, 04:21
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Default

Lower shelf compartment sliding door is Masonite, smooth side facing out and painted white.

Handle is identical in type and placement to the two handles on the exterior generator compartment sliding doors.

Handle is riveted in place with the same rivets used on the sliding generator doors which are the same as the exterior body skin. Inner side uses flat washers and flush riveting to secure them.

David
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Old 16-01-21, 16:38
Gord Falk Gord Falk is offline
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Default Storage Rack

The 110 volt plate is 2 by2 inch.
I will check to day if I have another one.

Gord
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  #7  
Old 16-01-21, 17:20
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Default Gen Compartment Sliding Door Latch

Here is what a complete Generator Compartment Sliding Door Latch looks like. The rubber wedge tip is hidden behind the lip of the doorframe on the right side.

The latch is in the ‘OPEN” position in this photo. This means you can lift the door up to any height and let it go and the latch will prevent it from sliding down.

To close the door, you flip the counterweighted swing arm clockwise. You can then lower the door, but it will lock closed as soon as you try to open it again, unless… you flip the swing arm counter clockwise.

These were a very common item for wooden sash windows in homes well into the 1970’s, when aluminum sliders took over the market. It would not surprise me in the least if small local Mom and Pop hardware stores still have some stock of these sitting in a corner somewhere. Very likely in cottage country somewhere.

You could buy complete latches, replacement swing arms and even the wedge rubber tips at one time. The tips can wear out or harden and get slippery.

Be wary. Another company showed up late in the game with a very similar product, but the swing arm had a longer and curvier profile and was too long to work properly in this style latch.

David
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  #8  
Old 16-01-21, 17:38
Bruce Parker (RIP) Bruce Parker (RIP) is offline
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On the bottom to the right of the pull handle there is a small angle piece. Is that for a padlock to hold the sliding panel down?

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Dunlop View Post
Here is what a complete Generator Compartment Sliding Door Latch looks like. The rubber wedge tip is hidden behind the lip of the doorframe on the right side.

The latch is in the ‘OPEN” position in this photo. This means you can lift the door up to any height and let it go and the latch will prevent it from sliding down.

To close the door, you flip the counterweighted swing arm clockwise. You can then lower the door, but it will lock closed as soon as you try to open it again, unless… you flip the swing arm counter clockwise.

These were a very common item for wooden sash windows in homes well into the 1970’s, when aluminum sliders took over the market. It would not surprise me in the least if small local Mom and Pop hardware stores still have some stock of these sitting in a corner somewhere. Very likely in cottage country somewhere.

You could buy complete latches, replacement swing arms and even the wedge rubber tips at one time. The tips can wear out or harden and get slippery.

Be wary. Another company showed up late in the game with a very similar product, but the swing arm had a longer and curvier profile and was too long to work properly in this style latch.

David
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