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#1
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Reduced To Components ... now I have a much better idea of what I can recover versus what I will need to replace.
The biggest bit I'd like to replace is the engine block, as it has a post-war CJ replacement block with an engine number prefix '4LR'. Anyone in MLU-land got a spare GPW 'short' engine they would like to sell? Many nuts and bolts came apart with relative ease, which is a good thing as these are mostly original F embossed. Other items took considerable work using heat plus wax or WD40 to get apart. A few needed more drastic and destructive effort. Overall, more plusses than minuses. (Sorry about the images being sideways: I tried rotating them before upload, but they still came out on the side.) Mike |
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#2
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Great stuff, Mike!
__________________
Howard Holgate F15 #12 F15A #13 (stretched) F60S #13 C15A #13 Wireless (incomplete) |
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#3
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The original chassis was badly rusted, so I've decided to use the second chassis supplied as part of the deal. This one, of a similar manufacturing time period, was repairable, but needed lots of work, particularly to the front and rear sections. I had to rebuild the front dumb irons, removing the previous repairs and fabricating replacement sections. Same with the drivers side rear spring support, which had to have a short section of the chassis rail replaced. Likewise the rear spring supports needed the old repairs removed, and new sections fabricated and welded in, along with a new cross member and pintle attaching plate. The brake & clutch pedal shaft support bracket and bearing were also replaced. In contrast to working on the Ford GP, all the items needed for the GPW are readily available. So the chassis is now ready to be sand blasted once the weather improves.
Mike |
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#4
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I've been busy with little things - stripping, sandblasting, painting, wrapping and storing ready to assemble later as I need them for the build phase.
The engine strip down was tedious as the internals were rusted and fought me all the way. The valves in contact with the valve seats were well rusted together, and the valve guides have taken quite a bit of pressure before that ominous 'crack' that indicates the first little bit of movement. Two of the exhaust guides refuse to budge, so I'm having a drift made so I can use the 20 ton press. The surprise was the state of the bores - no lip at all, not a hint, so the engine had not done much work since being built. Bearings were all standard, too, but the builder had not done too good a clean before assembly, and some are scored. It appears the engine had ceased to turn over, and was abandoned in that state. The cause turned out to be a jammed tappet - half had broken away, and upon rotation, had dropped the tappet against the cam lobe. The image below shows the broken tappet on the right and the score across the cam lobe. Fortunately, it seems the engine was not running at the time, as there is no other damage evident. Hopefully, it won't need a new camshaft. So with some care, the engine should rebuild nicely. Mike |
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#5
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Good job with the chassis, my welding skills would not be up to that standard
![]() NOS valve tappets are available , the cam looks almost new . The general consensus is the Ford blocks are somewhat weaker with thinner walls in some areas. Quite common to see a crack below the dissy mount . I've not seen this problem myself, maybe its due to the colder climates of the Northern hemisphere where coolant freezing is an issue. Not much chance of that here with temps of around 30C the past week or so .
__________________
1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
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#6
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Thanks Mike, my welding skills are not that great either, but then, neither were the assemblers at Ford in 1942. My work is certainly not concourse standard, but it is what my limited skills can achieve, so I'm happy with that.
A NOS tappet arrived from Peter DeBella Jeep Parts yesterday, along with a rebuild kit for the manifold heat control valve. Another batch of parts is due from Ron Fitzpatrick early next week, consisting mostly of replacement brake parts, and the very obliging local spring works, Pohl Springs, are making a replica torque reaction spring for me, which will be ready next week. Currently rumbling, cleaning and sorting nuts and bolts from the dismantling of the axles, cleaning the housings, brake backing plates, and so on. Mike |
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#7
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Slowly, slowly ...
Spent last Sunday week ago sorting all the paperwork that inevitably builds up during restoration. I keep notes, receipts, supplier's contacts and so on in folders in the workshop for quick reference. I have an original parts list, but I keep a copy in the workshop along with repros of most manuals. After the frustrations of the brake problem with the Willys MB , I spent the rest of today painting all the small parts I had been cleaning and blasting over the last several weeks. They can dry overnight, and I'll wrap, label, and pack into storage boxes tomorrow. The last images are the tool I had made to press the new valve guides into place, with a red and white scribe mark at the correct depth below the top of the block, and the engine lifting bracket I made which bolts into the head stud holes. It has various lift points to allow lifting the engine alone, or when fitted with the clutch, bell housing and transmission. The lift holes are the size of a D-shackle pin. Have not a clue why the images keep appearing on their sides - they were the right way up when I loaded them! ![]() Mike |
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