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#1
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Interesting way to degrease a frame, but I think I will stick with a proper sandblasting.
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#2
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One issue I could see with this type of cleaning is that the chemical gets in and cleans where it will be impossible to get paint into. Even sandblasting will often do the same. It leaves the unpainted areas subject to corrosion down the road.
Perhaps not much of a problem for us in the West, and most likely even in the East not a big issue for open top vehicles like a Jeep as it will not likely be driven on the salted roads. I have heard of guys dragging a paint soaked sponge or rag through the box of a frame. When I replaced the frame on the wife's stingray, I did that where I could, along with shooting paint through every hole in the frame possible. Those frames were especially susceptible to rust. Some actually send their frames to get hot dipped and galvanized. |
#3
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Another issue I see and have heard about from others when going with a "wet" stripping method is solution bleeding out and making it difficult to paint even more so if there is wood incorporated in the vehicle construction (like the wood in hat channels). Thanks but I am a guy who likes sandblasting and the "one and done" aspect of it and going straight to primer and paint.
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#4
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Before passing judgement on ultrasonic cleaning it would be important to know if any chemicals were involved at all. Maybe just fresh water and some soap. This would make it far better than tradition “dipping” which involves caustic soda that is very difficult to neutralize in welded seams and crevasses.
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#5
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Hard to believe another month has gone by since the last update. Laid down some primer and color on the frame, springs and miscellaneous items. Pressed in some new spring bushings too. Feels good to start bolting stuff back on for once. This was my first foray in using a paint gun and I'm happy with the results for a beginner.
__________________
Peter Phillips 1952 M38Cdn 1953 M100Cdn 1951 PE-95K Gen Set MVPA Cdn Forces 1986-2006 |
#6
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^ Looks great Peter. Just a little tip if I may, do not bother shooting paint on bolt heads that are visible on the body (like on grab handles, windshield, etc) hit them with primer, bolt on, then brush on paint with a suitable fine model brush. This will save you barking paint on install then revisiting and cleaning up. Remember, there is never enough time to do things right the first time............but always time to correct things on the second go.
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#7
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Thanks for that tip James! Never really thought about that issue until now, interesting problem
![]() And for the record, I've since replaced the t-case rubber cushion with a repro one. The original was a real treat to get out of the metal cup.
__________________
Peter Phillips 1952 M38Cdn 1953 M100Cdn 1951 PE-95K Gen Set MVPA Cdn Forces 1986-2006 |
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