![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Here it is Lynn as promised. Engine enamel in a can.
AVR number for the record and another stamping that I am not familiar with.
__________________
Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
"N54****P" number has been issued by NSW Police as an engine identifier, as the other visible stamps do not conform to the standard engine number format as recorded by the NSW DMR. An old practice that is no longer followed these days. The first 2 digits indicate this number was issued by NSW Police in 1954.
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Firstly..
Thanks Tony. That's very handy information to know. I'm not sure I would have ever found that out. Will be interesting to see if the RTA have any records of this truck and engine number. Doesn't look like a lot of progress but I have been putting in some hours. Figured out (with the aid of an excellent tutor) how to set the points. I bought a timing fixture at a swap meet yonks ago and managed to track down a set of instructions on how to use it. John and I did two dizzy's and the fixture got them absolutely spot on.
__________________
Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Good to see old skills being passed down the generations. Nice to see John at work and the progress on your F15 as well.
__________________
Film maker 42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains 42 FGT No9 (Aust) 42 F15 Keith Webb Macleod, Victoria Australia Also Canadian Military Pattern Vehicles group on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/canadianmilitarypattern |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
![]()
Days and days of trying to find 'bits'. Some people very helpful (in fact most) then there is always the one or two clowns that could help... but just cant be bothered.
Anyway had a little win with a little knick knack that is worthy of Jacques Reeds thread on Blitz miscellany. The little bush that acts as a spacer on the armature and the rear bearing, in my experience is always missing. So I had a few made. The guys did such a good job I could not tell the original from the copies. Have been mucking around with the generator for days with other bits I have picked up from swap meets... quite a few frustrating variations and weird threads on nuts that needed navigating my way through. Last two pictures made me chuckle. Ahh well, at least you Canucks still make something (unlike us, who have let the lunatics take over the asylum) And the old beast is a Canadian truck after all!!!
__________________
Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi Tony. Just trying to help here.
![]() What did your man make the bushes from? The reason why I ask is that usually generator rear bearings (bush type) are made from "sintered" bronze. sintered means something like lots of little balls of bronze all pushed together. One brand name I know of was "oilite" So before you install the bush into the end plate assembly, you would soak the bush in engine oil for a few hours first. The other way to do this was to: 1. sit the bush on your thumb. 2. fill the bush with oil. 3. bring your finger down on the other end and squeeze. The oil will immediately run out down the outside of the bush. Is there an oil wick in the end of your housing? Sometimes there is a piece of felt (oil reservoir) at the end of the hole with just a small orifice to poke an oil can into, and sometimes there is an oiler with a cap and a short small piece of felt in it. The thing is that ordinary bronze wont get enough lube, it will quickly run dry and in Kiwi / Australian parlance it will "bugger" the bearing end of the armature. One thing that will make a big difference here will be how tight you make the belts. Back in the day it was important to have so much movement in the belt so as not to load up the generator bush. Now days every thing has a ball bearing at the back and so belts can be much tighter. Another aspect is that you shouldn't "over oil" because you don't want oil getting on the brushes and commutator. This causes other problems. If your bushes happen to be solid bronze , you are going to have to oil a little and often. To go further, if the bush cuts out, the armature starts "polling" (hitting the pole shoes. This then causes the armature and or the regulator to burn out. I am sorry to have to tell you this now that you've gone to all the trouble. I just hope you've employed the correct material and that I'm jumping to conclusions. ![]()
__________________
Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|