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#1
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Hi Tony,
Think the attached will confirm your location for the clutch return spring. Looks like the hole above the master cylinder based on the diagram. Taken from the Australian Military Forces "Driver's Handbook for Ford" Hope this helps. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#2
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Thanks Jacques,
I think that is fairly definitive. I managed to find a stronger original spring as well so I will fit that up when I do the bushes in the clutch pedal and get it back on. There is a bit of play in everything so I'm working on getting things back to somewhere near original clearance. The clutch pedal shaft keeps wandering over to the pedal side when I put a spring on so hopefully, doing this will stop the drift. Thanks also Lynn for that information, I simply assumed it was Ford. Did not realise other manufacturer's used similar items.
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#3
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Have you got a picture of the cover of that Manual Jacques?
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#4
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Hi Tony,
Here is the cover of the Handbook. Also a photo of the brake and clutch springs for comparison. The clutch spring uses smaller diameter wire. The brake spring, typically, is unique to Cab 13 vehicles. Part No. *C29Q 2472. Both seem to be the same length however, about 10-1/2" to inside of hooks. The clutch spring is Part No. 81W 7523, so it is not unique to CMP vehicles and a quick search found Van Pelt sales carries them. No doubt other suppliers do too. Hope this is of interest to all. Cheers,
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F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed Last edited by Jacques Reed; 27-05-20 at 08:37. |
#5
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Thanks again Jacques for invaluable information.
I'm still getting my ducks in a row in regards to the engine so one of the little jobs that has been annoying me has been done. Mount the spare wheel carrier. Main reason... to get it off the shed floor. Had to improvise for the Australian version as this truck was originally fitted with the Canadian 'Clam shell' type. A couple of years ago I was beaten by about 15 minutes on line to the purchase of a Canadian Box. So I'll have to be content with what I've got. This was my solution. This spare wheel carrier I think was also for 20 inch Wheels and has been altered. Luckily the 10.5 x 16 inch Tyre juust fits.
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
#6
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Thrust bearing installed with new grease pipe.
Local Pirtek guys were very good. The fittings look almost identical to the originals.
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. Last edited by Ganmain Tony; 13-07-20 at 01:26. |
#7
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For some reason I have been dreading the engine. I think mainly because I was dreading making a costly mistake.
Anyway... now I have made a start, I am really enjoying doing the rebuild. Had an original engine stand (which is very well made) and it has been put into good use. Valves done, clearances done (about 8 removals of each lifter to get them right). Solid lifters used. Egge is the brand of the stuff I was sent. Did not want to drill holes in the block cause I was worried I might clutz that up. One piece guides and colletts. Original keepers for the guides used. Those mysterious O-Rings that came in the kit were put in - on a second go of course.
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. Last edited by Ganmain Tony; 13-06-20 at 06:38. Reason: More blab |
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