How To: Ford CMP "Blitz" miscellany

[David Herbert]

Well done Jacques, a very creative solution !

David

[Jacques Reed]

Thanks David, Dont think I will have any problems with the horn. Won't be using it in Rome or Mexico City where the horns get more hours on them than the engines!

Jumping back to the transmission rebuild, I am almost ready to finish it off. I was awaiting some new clutch cross shaft bushings which just came. I also have a NOS cross shaft to use in the gear case. The shaft and bushings can be subject to quite a bit of wear and therefore sloppiness as shown in the photo.
Found a couple interesting things about the bushings: There are two sizes of them for Ford Flatheads: 0.945" OD and 1.000" OD. My truck uses the smaller OD type. I also found two types of material used: Solid bronze, and steel backed bronze lining. See the attached photo. The newly manufactured one is on the right, original steel backed on left, and original solid in middle.

I seem to remember long ago tapping the steel backed ones carefully into a case with the shaft installed to prevent damage. I am not so confident to do that to the softer solid bronze new ones without crumpling them. Presently started turning up a guide tool to pull them into the case instead, and yes. threaded rod will be used again.

Will post results when done but truck work is on hold for a week or so as I look after my four-legged best friend after some surgery last week.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

Well, I finished my bushing guide tool on the lathe yesterday. My buddy is no longer wearing an Elizabethan collar so I could spend more time in the shed.

I was going to make it out of brass but then thought it was a bit of overkill so used a piece of 25mm nylon rod I had laying around.

Simple design: the pilot end has a section the same diameter as the inside of the bushing and a section the same diameter as the outside of the bushing. This ensures the bushing is pulled straight at all times. Two collars for the pulling end: one with the same diameter as the outside diameter of the bushing to install the first bushing, and one with same diameter as the inside diameter of the bushing to install the second bushing. Six mudguard washers and 4 nuts for the 3/8 UNC threaded rod finishes it off.

It worked a treat! A bit of 3 in One oil for lube and they pulled in nicely.

Not a lot of force on the spanners was required but I am convinced the solid bronze bushings would not just tap in without damage so I am glad I went to the extra trouble. No more shake, rattle, and roll on the cross shaft!

Hope this is of some interest.

Cheers

[Ganmain Tony]

As always Jacques
Need to do that very shortly myself..

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony,

Thanks. Here are the before and after photos with the new gears, shafts, and bearings installed. Nice to finally have a transmission that matches the type of truck I have.

PM me when you want to do your bushings. I can probably send you just the nylon bits to keep the postage down if you want to borrow them. Bunnings has the threaded rod.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

Another loose end crossed off from this past winter.

I decided to replace my front spring clips (U-bolts) with the ones from the parts truck. The main reason being the parts truck is an original F15-A but the restoration project started from what I believe to be bits cobbled together by previous owners so I am not sure if the clips are the originals. The other factor is I just prefer the look of the the full-nuts and half-nuts. There is a bit more thread engagement too, with the full-nut compared to a slotted-nut which can only be beneficial. It is not uncommon to have wastage on the threads near the cotter pins of the slotted-nut type clips.

The parts truck used full-nuts and jamming half-nuts to secure the clips to the front axle. The project truck used slotted-nuts and cotter pins. A friend who has a dozen trucks said about half his used slotted-nuts and half had the full-nut and half-nuts for securing the clips.

The two types of clips are show and differ in length by about 1/4"

Could not find a torque setting for the nuts in the Ford CMP Maintenance Manual but checking my GM CMP Maintenance Manual they gave 90 Ft lbs for those nuts. That is what I torqued them to and applied a bit of Locktite just to the half-nuts as added precaution against them coming off. They are not the kind of thing you find at the local nut and bolt supplier if they go missing.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

Ticked off another loose end. Started fabricating the last fuel line a while back but got a bit sidetracked with the transmission rebuild.

So yesterday I finished off the fuel line from the left side fuel tank to the changeover valve. Again, the parts truck junk was invaluable as a pattern. The clip that holds it to the running board support adaptor was too wasted to reuse so another small fabrication job was required.

So that completed all my Bundy tube bending for the truck. fuel lines, brake lines and even the lines to and from the bypass oil filter. Must be quite a few metres all up not including the lines I redid after getting corrected information.

Time now for a Bundy and Coke! Bundaberg that is.

Cheers,