How To: Ford CMP "Blitz" miscellany

[Grant Bowker]

Thank you for more helpful hints.
In creating your jacking bolts, you may find that a fine thread will apply force more smoothly and maybe more force on the parts you want to move for the same effort on your part due to the smaller angle on the threads.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Grant,

Good thinking! I used what was available but a 1/2-20 UNF thread would probably be better for more force. I am sure it will give others ideas based on what they have at hand.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

Here is another project I finished over the winter.

A year ago I looked at ways to repair rust holes in the diaphragm on a Ford horn. I put it on the back burner as I do when a solution doesn't quickly spring to mind.

A replacement diaphragm was not forthcoming so I thought of ways to seal the holes at least to prevent ingress of water. I discounted solder as that would probably fall out over time with vibration. Brazing or welding was out due to the possible heat effect on the diaphragm which I think is type of spring steel or tempered steel to allow for it to flex during vibration.

I found some vinyl inflatable pool patches in the shed and thought that might be a solution if glued to the diaphragm. Being thin, Light weight, and flexible it should not greatly affect the resonance of the diaphragm.

I tested a piece of it on a tin can using Sika Flex contact adhesive and it took all my strength to pull it of after it cured so I gave it a go.

It stuck well, and after reassembly and putting it across a 6V charger it blurted out a loud sound for the first time I would imagine in quite a few decades. Looking at the original condition I really didn't think it would work so it was a very pleasant surprise.

Cheers,

[David Herbert]

Well done Jacques, a very creative solution !

David

[Jacques Reed]

Thanks David, Dont think I will have any problems with the horn. Won't be using it in Rome or Mexico City where the horns get more hours on them than the engines!

Jumping back to the transmission rebuild, I am almost ready to finish it off. I was awaiting some new clutch cross shaft bushings which just came. I also have a NOS cross shaft to use in the gear case. The shaft and bushings can be subject to quite a bit of wear and therefore sloppiness as shown in the photo.
Found a couple interesting things about the bushings: There are two sizes of them for Ford Flatheads: 0.945" OD and 1.000" OD. My truck uses the smaller OD type. I also found two types of material used: Solid bronze, and steel backed bronze lining. See the attached photo. The newly manufactured one is on the right, original steel backed on left, and original solid in middle.

I seem to remember long ago tapping the steel backed ones carefully into a case with the shaft installed to prevent damage. I am not so confident to do that to the softer solid bronze new ones without crumpling them. Presently started turning up a guide tool to pull them into the case instead, and yes. threaded rod will be used again.

Will post results when done but truck work is on hold for a week or so as I look after my four-legged best friend after some surgery last week.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

Well, I finished my bushing guide tool on the lathe yesterday. My buddy is no longer wearing an Elizabethan collar so I could spend more time in the shed.

I was going to make it out of brass but then thought it was a bit of overkill so used a piece of 25mm nylon rod I had laying around.

Simple design: the pilot end has a section the same diameter as the inside of the bushing and a section the same diameter as the outside of the bushing. This ensures the bushing is pulled straight at all times. Two collars for the pulling end: one with the same diameter as the outside diameter of the bushing to install the first bushing, and one with same diameter as the inside diameter of the bushing to install the second bushing. Six mudguard washers and 4 nuts for the 3/8 UNC threaded rod finishes it off.

It worked a treat! A bit of 3 in One oil for lube and they pulled in nicely.

Not a lot of force on the spanners was required but I am convinced the solid bronze bushings would not just tap in without damage so I am glad I went to the extra trouble. No more shake, rattle, and roll on the cross shaft!

Hope this is of some interest.

Cheers

[Ganmain Tony]

As always Jacques
Need to do that very shortly myself..