11 cab CMP Distributor question

[MikeV]

So with the electronic system it makes sense to use it , since the vehicles sit for extended times with out running except for events at the museum.

But wouldn't we need to install crankshaft sensors and since we have a franken truck so to speak.

Wouldn't we need serial numbers off the engine to get the right parts?

[MikeV]

Here is another view with the distributor cap on the motor! before we removed the distributor

[MikeV]

Here is a picture I took as we started the work, you can see we have some of the hood off to get at the engine. We did the easy part first the carb and fuel pump. I kinda like the truck it has Character . Can't wait to get it running.

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by MikeV

So with the electronic system it makes sense to use it , since the vehicles sit for extended times with out running except for events at the museum.

But wouldn't we need to install crankshaft sensors and since we have a franken truck so to speak.

Wouldn't we need serial numbers off the engine to get the right parts?

I think you're approaching this with a "Modern Car" mindset. WW2-era vehicles remained unchanged for years at a time, and even then many parts were common to a lot of variations.

The "Rabbit Ears" distributor has exactly the same internal parts as the wartime "Crab Cap" distributor. In fact, as a museum piece you might light to consider changing the bails and cap to revert the distributor to a wartime appearance.

But for this discussion (for the '42 to '49 distributor), the only info you need to find the correct Pertronix ignition unit is the electrical set up of the truck; 6 or 12 Volt, positive or negative earth.

Some examples HERE

Perhaps one of the users on here of the Pertronix unit could provide a quick write-up or photos of the modification?

[rob love]

Dennis Carpenter sells some reasonably priced electronic conversion kits for these distributors in either pos 6 volt or neg earth in 12. They note that you cannot use the solid core wire with them, so that will be something to consider.

https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/en/...ition-sys-6-vo
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/en/...ition-sys-12-v

[Lynn Eades]

I have done my carrier. It is 12 Volt, Negative earth.I used the igniter kit, 1285LS it works for 42 to 48 Ford V8. Then you need a coil (the resistance is important) so the Pertronix coil number is #40011. The ignitor senses off the cam lobes (and so lobe condition is not important.
With the original system even NOS coils are very unreliable. (any doubts, ask Tony) Modern condensers are apparently the same,(buy three to get a good one?) and I have heard bad things about modern contact sets. From what I have heard the old points are better and having been used, hold their setting, whereas a new set will likely need adjusting after little use. (pull distributor out again)
The Pertronix doesn't have a condenser, so all in all, when you find that you have to change a lot of components, it might well save a lot of grief to go electronic.
As Tony says, you need to decide voltage and polarity as a first step.
Brown caps are supposedly better than black.
In this area, I wouldn't go back.

[Harry Moon]

This summer I installed the Petronix and blaster coil as a set , easy and simple. I'm going to upgrade the leads this winter although I didn't have any issues.

[MikeV]

Thanks for all the input on this subject
The Truck Is a 6 volt negative ground. Brian and I are a long way from the
finish line.

We have to replace the ape hanger shift lever we are both 6ft tall so when you put it in reverse you bang your elbow.
We have to change the crankcase oil it is black with a fresh blood. so we have a ways to go. Hoping after our repairs on the M8 Greyhound. (doing the brakes).

And first parades for remembrance day, we will get back at our favorite project.
We also have to put a new tail gate in and a grab bar on the roof opening .
Plus a lot of other minor things. I will post pictures when we progress further.
Once again thankyou for all your help.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by MikeV

The Truck Is a 6 volt negative ground. Brian and I are a long way from the finish line.

It was originally 6V positive ground. I hope al the appropriate conversions took place if it is negative ground.