WS52 Carrier wS52 Aerial Tuning coil connector

[Brian McMahon]

hi all I have my WS52 - main and remote receiver , power supply and transmitter all working. I do have the rear connection bus bar from the carrier -case but no actual case so I'm looking for for decent pictures of the carrier to permit me to fabricate a replacement. I have given up trying to find an original.
Secondly my aerial tuning coil is misssing the connector that goes to the antenna. I dont know what it really looks like so some pictures would be helpful as those in the manuals are unclear. Lastly my Tuning coil case is missing its rear cover. Can anyone confirm that it was made from wood and not metal.
Thank you for your time
Brian Gi4KEQ

[David Dunlop]

Brian. The back panel for the Coil, Aerial Tuning is wood as per the rest of the case. Screws are slotted, round head wood screws. I can get you the length if you need it.

David

[David Dunlop]

Regarding the connector you need. Is it the long one you need from the large ceramic insulator on the top left side of the coil box, or the short one running from either of the two small wing nut terminals on either lower side of the coil case to the heavy insulated output terminal on the top right front corner of the Sender. Its the short one the coil was typically issued with.

David

[Brian McMahon]

hi David its the long insulator and associated bits that facilitate connction to the antenna . I'm sorry I dont really know what it consists of because on mine its all completely missing just leaving a hole in the case.
Brian

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

Regarding the connector you need. Is it the long one you need from the large ceramic insulator on the top left side of the coil box, or the short one running from either of the two small wing nut terminals on either lower side of the coil case to the heavy insulated output terminal on the top right front corner of the Sender. Its the short one the coil was typically issued with.

David

[Brian McMahon]

hi David thanks for that. I guess if you have the screw length at hand it would be nice to try and match the originals.
Brian

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

Brian. The back panel for the Coil, Aerial Tuning is wood as per the rest of the case. Screws are slotted, round head wood screws. I can get you the length if you need it.

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Brian, I'm happy to help with pics and dimensions for the carrier. The bad news is that it is a complicated item with a whole lot of parts that would have to be fabricated.

[David Dunlop]

While I think of it, Brian, can you post a couple of pictures of the outer left side corner of your Coil Box where the ceramic insulator was removed, and a corresponding photo of the interior of that corner? That would give us a better idea of the pieces you may need, to restore that portion of the assembly.

David

[Brian McMahon]

At the moment its looking a bit sad as its been got at. But I'm sure I can invisibly mend the chopped out bit. The connector is my biggest concern

[David Dunlop]

Yikes, Brian.

Looks like an entire family of Bodgers moved into it for a while. Even added a switch to the front panel. Probably to turn on the coffee maker. I often wonder what prompts people to ‘make things better that don’t really need to be improved.

I will see what I can do to help.

David

[David Dunlop]

Hello again, Brian.

The screws you are going to need for the back panel are 3/4-inch long, steel, round head slotted affairs as per the attached photo.

The rear panel is made of clear pine board, 3/8-inch thick.It could be a one piece board, but it would not surprise me in the least if it was a composite affair built up from smaller pine sections, either tongue and grooved together, or butt joined.

The board is 12-1/4 inches wide and 7-3/4 inches tall, which should give you about a 1/16-inch gap all around when installed. The board should also rest about 1/16-inch deep when mounted.

True dimension lumber is very hard to find these days so you may have to find a half inch or greater board and find someplace with a band saw and fence setup large enough to rip it down to the 3/8 inch you need. I would be wary of running it through a planer as you would need multiple passes to do it well and the odds are very high the board would heat warp before you were done.

Once you have some board available of the correct thickness, you should be able to repair the cutout to the left front side of the case. I would trace the cutout on a piece of paper and transfer that outline to a piece of replacement board, then cut out the replacement piece with a hand scroll saw. Sand and file to fit and white glue it in place.

Hope this helps,

David

[Brian McMahon]

hi, thank you most helpful. Last thing I would really appreciate some pictures of the aerial connector.
Brian

[Brian McMahon]

hi Bruce if you could manage some pictures of the carrier I would be appreciated. From what you say a full repro would be impractical but I may be able to make a simplified version that would look authentic from the front view?
Best regards Brian

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

Brian, I'm happy to help with pics and dimensions for the carrier. The bad news is that it is a complicated item with a whole lot of parts that would have to be fabricated.

[David Dunlop]

Brian.

I pulled the rear cover from my Coil Case to verify thickness and it was 3/8-inch not the 1/4- inch I originally posted. It is also one solid board, although you could certainly build one up to size if needed.

I also did some rummaging in old parts boxes and found an insulated terminal assembly I had long forgotten about. It got whacked in its life and the inner ceramic sleeve that passes through the side hole of the case had three small pieces break off. Two larger ones were apparently saved and one small bit was lost. It was repaired with a liberal coating of what looks like battery pitch, but cleaned up reasonably well. I think some careful gluing with a modern porcelain or china cement might do the trick.

I will post a photo tomorrow of the bits for you.

David

[Brian McMahon]

Hello David, that really exciting news
Please advise how much I need to send you including postage to N Ireland UK
you can email me directly at bjmcmahonATgmail.com change the AT
best regards Brian

[David Dunlop]

Hi Brian.

Here is a photo of the exploded layout of the output terminal I have for the Coil, Aerial Tuning No. 2 A, showing the orientation of all the bits in relation to the side of the case it mounts to.

As you will see, apart from the damage to the stem of the inner insulator unit, the midsized paper washer that fits between the ceramic and the wooden wall of the case is half missing. The large one on the exterior side of the case is in good shape, as is the small one that fits between the end of the inner ceramic bit and the mounting flat washer, inside toothed lock washer, and the brass hex nut. If you can get your hands on a black, manila file folder, that material will work perfectly to cut a replacement middle washer.

The thread for the long brass stem and brass hex nut is 10-32. Both could do with a cleaning up. Also, what you see in the way of hardware here is used simply to mount the socket/insulator assembly to the wooden case. Do not run it home excessively. A second internal tooth lock washer and brass hex nut are needed for the end to fasten the output lead from the actual coil to the stem of the aerial socket.

As for the three internal connections, it looks like, from the photos you posted, the two leads are still there for the pair of input terminals from the sender, at the sides, lower rear. These terminals have the wing nuts on the outside of the case. The leads are the tinned copper lines coming from the lower corners of the thick, brown, phenolic supports on either side of the coil drum assembly. They should end in a No. 10 crimp style ring terminal and from your photo, those might still be attached to the two input terminals. Somebody may have just cut through the cables rather than unbolt them. Sigh! IF they are still there, with a little time and care they can be saved. Heat them up and wick, or suck the old solder away enough to open up the crimp and pull the wire stubs free. Resolder and crimp them to the surviving connector cables and you are good to go. Those old No. 10 terminals will be slightly more robust than the ones you find today, although the newer ones will work just fine. Just depends on how much of a challenge you enjoy tackling, I suppose.

An identical type of tinned copper cable should run between the end of the ceramic insulator/socket assembly to a hex nut/screw assembly on the upper portion of the right hand large brown, phenolic support plate. This hex nut/screw assembly will be directly above the lower one on the right side, closest to you, right at the axel point of the drum. If it has been bodged out of there, you may have to remove the coil assemble to get better access for replacing it, as mentioned, the construction will be identical to the other two already present. I tried getting a picture of mine but the location inside the case is too narrow and dark for a good shot of it.

Let me know if you are still interested and send me your postal information. I will then see what shipping will be for you.

And thanks, by the way. I have not got around to working on my Coil yet. It’s complete now but will need a full disassembly to tidy up and repaint the case. Have to finish working on my two receivers at the moment and then tackle restoring the two wooden accessory boxes I now have for my 52-Set Project.

Best regards,

David

[David Dunlop]

Before I forget, again, Brian, the green felt mat under the coil assembly is a correct, original part.

David

[Brian McMahon]

Thanks David. It looks pretty good and would do the job nicely I will email my address details separately thanks re the green felt it looked like an add on but good to know its not.
Brian

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Brian McMahon

hi Bruce if you could manage some pictures of the carrier I would be appreciated. From what you say a full repro would be impractical but I may be able to make a simplified version that would look authentic from the front view?
Best regards Brian

Brian, here's some pics.

Without getting too detailed with where all the reinforcing angles are, what you have is:

- The top section which is a piece of 18 gauge steel the width of the radio and folded to form a bottom, back, top and lip at the top. There are four 18 gauge panels with ½” lips that become the two ends and center partitions for the supply unit. At both ends of this open fronted ‘box’ are two squares made of 1-1/4” angle that also hold lifting handles and rubber shock mounts.

- The bottom section made mostly of 1/8” in steel. There are two ends folded into ‘boxes’ which are set vertically into a bottom frame running the width of the radio. The tops of these end ‘boxes’ are what the rubber shock mounts sit on. There are reinforcing straps welded to the corners and oblong holes for mounting the carrier to a table.

I would tackle making one of these being able to bend and weld the angle iron and 18 gauge steel but would need someone to bend up the thicker stuff. If you're brave I can work up some dimensions and construction details.

[Brian McMahon]

hi Bruce apologies for the late reply. Thank you for the pictures, its a much more substantial construction than I had imagined. I dont think I would want to embark on such a project. I will continue to keep an eye out for an original . Meantime I will contruct a separate light weight box for each of the units . I already have an interconnect cable which permits a degree of movement and facilitates access to the innards . Anyway thanks again for the help it is appreciated. I have finished the aerial tuning inductance and can now direct my attention onto the casing
73 Brian