Wireless Set No. 52 Canadian - Project

[David Dunlop]

I was absolutely amazed to find a set of these connectors came with the Spares Box Reg had found. In the back of my mind, I was wondering if and when I ever found the Supply Unit for a 52-Set in complete condition, how to safely connect it to a suitable DC Supply for testing. Even more important, how to do it safely to operate the set?

So far this connector seems to be in dirty but near complete condition. The only missing item I can currently identify is one of the four corner screws holding the main body together is missing. Hopefully that will be an easy fix. There is a bit of sulphate deposit on the two banana sockets on the back of the plug assembly and the large mounting screw has some surface oxidation that should also clean off easily. All the raised letter identifications cast into the bakelite are intact and still have their white paint highlights.

The Parts List states the two leads should be black and red. The ‘red’ one on this item looks more tan/brown, but that just might be decades of dirt accumulation. I took a look in the manuals to see where this item was normally stored and it took me a few moments to realize it was an active part of the 52-Set and would always be fitted to the front of the Supply Unit. Doh!


David

[David Dunlop]

This was the other item found in the bottom of the Spares Box. It is in rather rough shape, but is the first one I have ever seen up close. Not sure at this point, just how important it is, since the same chart is printed in the Instruction Manual for the 52-Set.

There is a paint line around the edge of the front of this plate, so it was clearly mounted and in use somewhere in its working career. The paint is either white, cream or that funny pale hospital green one used to see a lot of, decades ago.

Still also a mystery how somebody came into possession of two differently painted Spares Boxes decades ago, and both still had the Plates and Connectors still tucked away inside.

David

[David Dunlop]

I stumbled across this item locally over the weekend while looking for something completely different. Since it was actually the Satchels, Signals listed in the Master Parts Listing for the 52-Set, I figured I might as well pick it up.

It has some dust marks on it, but the overall condition of it suggests it was never issued/used. It does seem to be a much lighter weight strap, and although the strap is adjustable, it is a much plainer design with no extra shoulder reinforcing. The canvas used for the bag also seems to be a lighter weight than other satchels I have on hand.

David

[David Dunlop]

This last week I was able to go through both the Remote Receiver and Main Set Receiver and clean all the accessible switch contacts.

Immediately after the cleaning, there was a noticeable improvement in the operation of the meter switch in both receivers. I am going to let everything dry for 24 hours before powering up the receivers to see what other changes become evident. Not an actual requirement of the process, but I have enough other things to do (Insert ‘yard work’ here) to keep me occupied in the interim.

One other thing I took the time to look at more closely was the FREQ. ADJUST. Control situated directly above the Frequency Dal. The one on my Main Set Receiver, as I think I mentioned a while back, is very stiff. I discovered the one on the Remote Receiver has a ring of heavy grease around the perimeter of the tension and locking disk. The one on the Main Set Receiver did not. The first attachment is the Master Parts List illustration of this item. The photo attached is of the offending piece in situ.

After cleaning the disk assembly and adding some grease, there was about a 25% improvement in the operation of the control. Still a little too much tension on the disk itself and I will explore this issue eventually.

Other than that, the dandelions keep calling my name.

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

I was absolutely amazed to find a set of these connectors came with the Spares Box Reg had found. In the back of my mind, I was wondering if and when I ever found the Supply Unit for a 52-Set in complete condition, how to safely connect it to a suitable DC Supply for testing. Even more important, how to do it safely to operate the set?

So far this connector seems to be in dirty but near complete condition. The only missing item I can currently identify is one of the four corner screws holding the main body together is missing. Hopefully that will be an easy fix. There is a bit of sulphate deposit on the two banana sockets on the back of the plug assembly and the large mounting screw has some surface oxidation that should also clean off easily. All the raised letter identifications cast into the bakelite are intact and still have their white paint highlights.

The Parts List states the two leads should be black and red. The ‘red’ one on this item looks more tan/brown, but that just might be decades of dirt accumulation. I took a look in the manuals to see where this item was normally stored and it took me a few moments to realize it was an active part of the 52-Set and would always be fitted to the front of the Supply Unit. Doh!


David

I've cast up some bodies for the Connector, Twin No.17 and am sourcing out the guts and cables (any idea where I can get the proper fabric covered cable?). One had your name on it but I think you're OK now. Good find!!!


A couple of details I've noticed. The face plate on yours has rounded corners and my original is square. Your screws may have washers but aren't the star washers on mine. This connector was used for the 52 set but also the No.9 Mk.1 and No.9. Both those manuals have pics that show one cable darker than the other so I expect 'red/black' cable colours were from the beginning. The British No.9 set must have had a similar plug and I wonder what it looked like.

[David Dunlop]

Hi Bruce.

Just came up from trying to tune the 19-Set to 3.615Mc. Thunderstorms in the area. Not very productive. Was hoping to natter a bit on the air tomorrow.

The Connector No. 17 cables are No.3 B&S stranded copper cable, rated at 125 Amps and rubber covered. Up to that point in their description, they would appear to be standard automotive battery cables of the day. From what I can see at the lug ends of mine, the rubber on both is black. Red and black cotton cloth loom was then slipped over the rubber cables and the ends on mine were then bound with a heavy cotton cording and lacquered to hold them in place. The loom at one lug end has started to unravel a bit due to moisture, but should be an easy repair when I get to it. The loom binding just peeks out from under the Bakelite head about 1/8 inch on mine.

My thought process leads me to wonder if red and black cloth looming might have been a common item on automotive battery cables at some point in the 1930’s and 40’s. If so, it might be replicated today by some of the antique auto electrical suppliers.

David

[David Dunlop]

Nice looking repro’s of the connector head, Bruce, by the way.

David

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

I've had mine apart. The hard bits to make will be the sockets for the trouble light and of course the knurled clamping screw. Luckily I have a great big spool of the original cotton binding thread. The plans is to make two, one for my No.9 and one for the No.9 Mk.1. And if economical a small run for fellow radio enthusiasts. Cosmetic 'non-runners' would be a snap.

I just went back to the manuals. The British No.9 shows a square face plate thought the lettering would of course be different. The Canadian No.9 Mk.1 shows rounded corners so I expect those represent the early version.

Ain't this stuff fun?

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

Hi Bruce.

Just came up from trying to tune the 19-Set to 3.615Mc. Thunderstorms in the area. Not very productive. Was hoping to natter a bit on the air tomorrow.

The Connector No. 17 cables are No.3 B&S stranded copper cable, rated at 125 Amps and rubber covered. Up to that point in their description, they would appear to be standard automotive battery cables of the day. From what I can see at the lug ends of mine, the rubber on both is black. Red and black cotton cloth loom was then slipped over the rubber cables and the ends on mine were then bound with a heavy cotton cording and lacquered to hold them in place. The loom at one lug end has started to unravel a bit due to moisture, but should be an easy repair when I get to it. The loom binding just peeks out from under the Bakelite head about 1/8 inch on mine.

My thought process leads me to wonder if red and black cloth looming might have been a common item on automotive battery cables at some point in the 1930’s and 40’s. If so, it might be replicated today by some of the antique auto electrical suppliers.

David

[David Dunlop]

Not much time for the 52-Set Project right now, with the Summer season here. The addition of outside chores to the routine, along with an endless stream of heat waves this year, has a significant limiting factor on what one can get motivated to accomplish indoors.

Related projects have been the norm recently. I was able to more closely evaluate the accuracy of my tube tester. It does need a new tube itself, but the type needed falls into todays ‘pricy tubes’ category. However, by letting it warm up and stabilize for 15 to 20 minutes before testing any tubes, and by going through a number of tubes with known values from another tester, I have been able to determine it currently runs about 16 points lower in readings than it should. So it can be worked with until a suitably priced NOS tube shows up for it.

The second outside project has been getting my oscilloscope up and running, as it will soon be needed for the 52-Set Project. More on the scope later on a separate thread.

I did recall the other day that the Microphone, Hand No. C3 for my 52-Set had some duct tape wrapped around the lower handle at some time in its history. The fabric of the tape had eventually fallen away, but the glue base had remained, firmly in place.

One of the advantages of working part time at an auto dealership detail shop is one has access to some marvellous solvents and cleaners. I decided to see what a spray bottle of our ‘Safe Solve’ could do with the glue residue. It is a very friendly solvent with paints and plastics and before long, the glue was starting to soften and come off with a solvent dampened cloth. After about 20 minutes of work, the glue residue was completely gone and the only thing still on the back of the microphone was the small yellow C-Broad Arrow stamp on the upper back.

So a little bit of progress.

David

[David Dunlop]

I found an interesting anomaly in the Wireless Sets, Canadian No, 52 Working Instructions Manual this morning.

While looking through the tables of parts at the back of the manual, I found that under the Kit No. 2, Operating Kit listings on Page 158, 2 Satchels, Signals No. 1 were noted under the ANCILLARIES Column.. That struck me as very odd since no other wireless set manual I have in my possession shows more than one Satchels, Signals listed. Never any spares. If what you had needed replacing, you simply requisitioned a new one from the Supply chain.

A quick look at the Master Parts List showed only one Satchel, Signals issued.

To double check, I went to the photo of the Major Items of Complete Station on Page 33 of the manual. Just one satchel noted in the photograph. That would be sufficient for the usual contents of 3 headsets, a Microphone, Hand No. C3 and a Morse Key for the main set.

To be certain, I took a look at the photograph of the items issued with the Case, Operating, Remote Receiver on Page 114. No second satchel there. The two headsets for the Remote Receiver have their own storage compartment at one end of the case so do not require a satchel.

I suspect therefore, that the listing in the 52-Set manual for 2 Satchels, Signals is a typographical error that was missed when the manual was rewritten from its original Wireless Set No. 9 Mk II Canadian Status to the unanticipated new Wireless Set No. 52 Canadian. This type of error is consistent with the large number of parts referenced in the Master List as having part numbers that are incorrect, which should be ignored.

David

[David Dunlop]

Here is another example of how the detail in the illustrations from the 52-Set Parts List provide valuable information to help correctly identify parts.

If one starts researching this torch with the Working Instructions Manual, the photograph on Page 124 shows the torch to be an angle head item, with a small diameter clear lens. The description on Page 160 simply is “Torches Hand 2 Cell” and notes that either it, or, “Torches Hand 2 Cell, Eveready No. 9250” can be issued with the set, but not both.

I tried searching for more information on the Eveready torch but have yet to find any images of one. I am assuming it might be a similar design to the other referenced item.

Then I took a closer look at the illustration and description of the torch in the Master Parts List. The text provided another clue; the torch had a plastic body, not painted brass. A closer look at the illustration finally revealed a possible model number cast inside the circle on the side of the torch by the neck: TL-122-B. A web search for that model number produced a flood of results. Too many really. It was quickly evident a number of manufacturers were involved in the production of these torches during the war.

I did notice, however, that a number of manufacturers placed their name in the circle on the left side of the torch and the model number was on the right side only. So I started by ruling them out. Then I noticed whenever a torch showed up with the model number cast on both sides of the neck, the manufacturers name was cast into the bottom cap of the torch. That helped narrow things down even more.

Another look at the illustration showed a very distinct shield shaped switch plate, with the slide switch below the button switch. Over four months, only two shield shaped switch plates ever showed up on line. Most were rectangular of some style. Of the two shield styles, one was a perfect match. Any torches with it also had the model number on both sides of the head. Turns out the maker of this torch is GITS (GITS BROTHERS MANUFACTURING COMPANY), and their logo is cast into the bottom cap.

Again, I could not have sorted this all out without the details in the Parts List illustrations.

David

[Bruce MacMillan]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

That struck me as very odd since no other wireless set manual I have in my possession shows more than one Satchels, Signals listed.
David

You must not have the WS11 manual then.

Depending on CES the set was issued with 7 or 8 satchels !!