Info needed: M38A1 Master Cylinder Replacement?

[Les Kovacs]

Wow....thanks Rob, Owen and Charlie....I will attempt it tonight.

With only a .001% chance of replacing the worn parts with a rebuild kit with the cylinder still in place I think I will put in new cylinder that I do have with the instructions as provided.

Best regards,

lesk

[rob love]

Originally Posted by Les Kovacs

Wow....thanks Rob, Owen and Charlie....I will attempt it tonight.

With only a .001% chance of replacing the worn parts with a rebuild kit with the cylinder still in place I think I will put in new cylinder that I do have with the instructions as provided.

Best regards,

lesk

That .001 % is actually a bit optimistic. I don't want you to think that there is a chance it could work.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks to all.....Rob.....I followed your directions to a "T" and it was easier than anticipated to take off master cylinder and associated parts....many thanks again.

I installed a new master cylinder that I had from while back. I do have a master cylinder rebuild kit....would you install it on the master cylinder I just took off as a spare?

Best regards,

les

[rob love]

Personally, I wouldn't bother. Your brand new one should last 7 to 15 years.....by then your rebuilt one sitting on the shelf and drying out will be garbage again. As well, if your old one is pitted, you have to hone it to get rid of the pitting....dimensionally it is going to be out.

Brand new master cylinders are $50 from Rock Auto....possibly even cheaper on ebay. When you look at the price of the rebuild kit ($42.18 at NAPA) why would you want the lack of reliability of a rebuild?

The only exception to the above is if you had a fairly new cylinder that got contaminated and swelled up the rubber. In that case, if the bore is good, a rekit will (almost) make sense.