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#1
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Rear brake drums/hubs and the rear brake backing plates came back from the sandblasters. I’m always impressed with the quality that is done by the guy I use.
I also got a nice care package from LWD Parts.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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The picture at the bottom of the care package , showing the Felt Ball Seals, to add to the CMP knowledge base could you take a photo of the end and take some measurement along with the length measurements? Enjoying watching your progess. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#3
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From the felts that Bob Carriere bought years ago from Dirk, there is a strip of rubber with felt laminated to each side. It is quite possible that plain felt strips could work but I have no experience with this. I suggest caution when Bob says to thin the oil you soak the felt in before installation with acetone - I don't know but can imagine the acetone attacking the rubber layer.
If anyone plans to make their own seals of pure felt, keep in mind that there are multiple grades of industrial felt (variable hardness and absorbency) some better than others for holding lubricant or resisting rubbing.... I also suggest using a factory (or cut to the same standard) edge against the ball and any rougher cut edge in the groove of the housing. Smoothest edge against the ball for a better seal. Alternately, if you can get the exact thickness needed and cut strips off a sheet, put the thickness perpendicular to the ball and neither cut face acting to seal on the ball. These are suggestions based on thought, not experience. |
#4
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I’ll get some measurements of the NOS seals tomorrow. I keep forgetting.
Anyway I went back and touched up all the paint on the springs and the front and rear axles. Everything had been sandblasted a few years ago when I started in on the truck. However I noticed while making up the brake lines that I had missed a lot of spots with my sprayer. I went back with a wire brush and cleaned off all the loose stuff then gave it a good coating of fresh POR15. Once dry I finished off with a coating of their tiecoat primer. Now I just need to finish off with the final colour coat. I also started taking apart the parking brake linkages. However I’ll have to replace the threaded section of the one as it had the threads chewed up screwing the one end off. My question with these rods is, should they be straight? I’m assuming the bends in them are just from life. Lastly my truck had what I believe to be one original parking brake cable. From what I can tell it matches other ones as seen on this site. If it’s deemed to be original I’ll start modifying the ones I bought from MAC’s. They are similar but different.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#5
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Not much today except for the fact I made up two new ends to go onto the cables from Mac’s. These thread onto the threaded section and then match up to the original fittings.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#6
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I did a bit of painting today to get the axles and suspension back to SCC2. Things are looking good.
Also a comparison of the original parking brake cable and the new one with the screw on end I made up.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#7
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Back at it after a week away. Today I replaced the threaded section of the parking brake adjusters due to the originals being bent up or rusted out in places. I picked up a 3’ long section of threaded rod and welded in the new pieces. All is now good and the ends thread on very well.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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