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#1
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Well yes I can. ![]() ![]() ![]() If I cared less, the work would go much quicker. But when you must weld in the cage nuts, and you must chase every welded nut with a tap, and you must use the little dished hex "bolts, assembled washer", and you must apply antisieze to every one of the above, it takes a little longer. Hopefully some fellow 30 years down the road appreciates this. It's projects like these that makes one excited to go to work, and stay a little late each day. I have to fight the urge to go back in after supper, or on the weekend. |
#2
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Back in the late '50s, early '60s, our Signal Corps unit still had CMPs. (radio vans aka gin palaces). Because of the then somewhat fragile nature of their mechanicals, it was deemed to be mandatory that a local RCEME unit with their M62 had to accompany us on our convoy to and from whatever training area we went to.
We had a chance to "play" with the boom...the only lever I remember was marked "crowd". Yeah, memories.
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PRONTO SENDS |
#3
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![]() Your work on the cowl/firewall looks good. What's the scoop on that 3M structural epoxy? Is it something you have to mix up and apply, or is it delivered/mixed via tube? Have you used it before... results? It sounds like a useful product.
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1953 M37 CDN 1953 M38A1 CDN 1967 M38A1 CDN2 |
#4
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It is two tubes side by side. You need to buy the special caulking gun, which can be fairly expensive.....our price was $140 but the list price was about double that. Of course, you can buy them off ebay for about half that if you don't mind waiting a few weeks. The tubes come with a pair of mixing nozzles. You discard the nozzle after each use (although you leave it on just to seal the tube until you use it again, then you place on a new mixing nozzle. The nozzle swirls the two parts of the epoxy together. It comes out a grey colour, and as it sets, changes to a purplish Hugh. You have a few hours before it starts to set, so plenty of clamping time. I applied a bead to both surfaces. It is actually fairly thin, and will run a little. As it sets, I ran a paper towel to absorb up the excess, and also worked it in the seams as a seam sealer. You can weld an inch away form it, but if you get too close it will splatter.
The next day, when everything had hardened, I sanded some of the excess, then brushed POR-15 over the seams as there still would have been bare metal. While I had my edges reasonable flat, I was working with used panels, so there was bound to be a little distortion. Add to that the two panels were off vehicles that were made 30 years apart....fortunately there seemed to be very little revisions to this area. I can see me using this stuff again. Although my MiG welding didn't blow any holes thru the areas I did weld, it does not waterproof the seams...this stuff does. Yes, I have plenty of projects at home, but in the evening, by the time I have supper, and get the wood furnace running in the shop, I am just about out of time. My own shop time is mostly on the weekends. |
#5
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The another great advantage of the body panel adhesive is it seals up the joint between the two panels and stops rust from forming in the seam. Not an insignificant benefit.
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#6
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That, Gordon, is the biggest reason I used the stuff. I want these vehicles to last for the long term....despite my Manitoba upbringing, cheapest (in this case spotwelding) is not neccessarily the best. I welded (both spot and at the edges of the seams) at the door pillars, for strength as well as that area is fully covered by the dash.
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#7
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Rob
I've used several tubes on the seams in the HUP body re-build and as you say the value for the money is very well spent. I would tell you about using it on the Iltis but, that would be trowing good money after bad. |
#8
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Kind of the reverse about the silk purse/sows ear analogy.....good money after bad.
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