How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

New mounting hardware is on order with the fastener shop for the transmission case. I also rechecked the parts book and there was a spacer between the bottom of the frame and the mount. All is good.

Today I went and stopped by the Transaxle shop in Stoney Creek. I brought in some of the driveshaft parts and the original U joints. Before I could even begin to explain what I was looking for, he read out all of the part numbers I would need. I knew I was at the right place. I told him how many of each I needed and after a few minutes he came from the back with everything in stock. This was also the same shop that rebuilt my clutch and pressure plate.

I’ve included all of the boxes with the interesting bits layed out for future reference.

[David Herbert]

Don't you just love standardisation ! You couldn't do that with a British vehicle !

David

[Jordan Baker]

The transfer case is now all mounted. It proved to be quite the job in getting it all lined up and installed. Now that it’s out of the way I started taking the wheels off. All but one came off. The last one has proven to be incredibly stubborn.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

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Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

The transfer case is now all mounted. It proved to be quite the job in getting it all lined up and installed. Now that it’s out of the way I started taking the wheels off. All but one came off. The last one has proven to be incredibly stubborn.

Brake drum issue? See if there's any way to retract the (probably stuck) brake shoes. I've wrestled with your problem more than once. Oh, and don't drop the whole thing on your head seeing as three quarters of it is supported on axle stands (if it was me I'd put the other three wheels back on before going aggressive on the last one).

[Grant Bowker]

I'm not clear which removal is causing trouble.

Wheel from drum/ hub? Confirm someone in past hasn't switched a left side / left hand thread to the right side or vice versa so the threads operate in reverse - tighten when you would expect loosening?

Separating the wheel half sections to remove the tire? Does keeping the old tire matter to you (it looks well weathered...)? Lots of heat on the nuts and a serious impact wrench (but be aware that too much heat can cause pyrolysis - spontaneous, uncontrolled heat/explosion of the tire)? Chainsaw the tire off the rim and then fight the wire beads off the individual rim sections?

Drum/hub from axle? Maybe undo the lower adjusters and let them move into the drum and relax the shoes? BFH? Check for a seized parking brake cable?

[Jordan Baker]

Just trying to get the wheel rim off of the drum. Im not quite at the stage of taking the drums off.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

Chainsaw the tire off the rim

That's a thing???? I've considered a sawsall but a chainsaw? Would it cut through the rubber or just buck back into your face??? Tell me it works and I'll give it a go. My tire guy doesn't want to talk to me any more about CMP tires.

[Grant Bowker]

Some of the old/original tires are almost woodlike in texture....
Yes, I've honestly done it. Obviously, ensure the tire is fully deflated first. Then with some care (as for every use of chainsaw) with the saw bar at about 45 degree angle from the tire and rim lying on the ground gently work your way around the tire cutting just deeply enough to cut the carcass, no need to go through the tube unless you want to. I believe it is easier and safer to do a shallow cut for control and a second pass if needed rather than plunging deeply and risking binding. (It has never happened and I don't want to give it a chance to happen.) Leave enough clearance to the rim for your comfort, no need to ruin chains trying to cut the rim. Flip over and repeat to free the other side. Bob Carriere may have photos of the process under way. It's easier to separate the rim halves before cutting the bead of the tire off the rim but it can be done with the rim assembled (except for runflats where the bead lock gets in the way). I tend to use an angle grinder and cut-off wheel to cut the steel bead wires, Rob Clarke prefers to use a cold chisel - personal preference, they both work.
I haven't seen any tires with steel plies on CMP rims but I suppose it is possible and the chainsaw method is not suitable for these tires, check with care before starting work. I've found the process to work beautifully on the original multiple cotton/rayon/whatever ply tires (i.e. 10 ply rather than 10 ply rated), not sure if it is because of the plies or the aging of the rubber, but also used it on newer (ply rated) tires without issue.
I leave it to you to decide if I'm a fool who should have killed myself through bad technique or if this technique suits you.

[Matthew P]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

That's a thing???? I've considered a sawsall but a chainsaw? Would it cut through the rubber or just buck back into your face??? Tell me it works and I'll give it a go. My tire guy doesn't want to talk to me any more about CMP tires.

Can't say I've heard of chainsaw used for this before either. But it makes sense. The wider kerf created by the chain instead of using a narrow blade probably makes it easier. Just don't do it in of doors. Watched a guy do some cutting in his basement with one. Filled the house with blue smoke

Matt