How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks for the comment that they could be cork.

As for the spacers. There is 4 of the round ones in total. The two that are circled are how the transfer case came. I could not for the life of me get these two bolts to unscrew. Even with heat and a breaker bar they wouldn’t turn loose. So I just left them alone. Also on the chassis cross piece you can see that the spacer disks went between the case and the bracket. I think it’s just a matter of getting it nudged enough with some punches and it will suddenly line up. It’s very very close.

[Jordan Baker]

New mounting hardware is on order with the fastener shop for the transmission case. I also rechecked the parts book and there was a spacer between the bottom of the frame and the mount. All is good.

Today I went and stopped by the Transaxle shop in Stoney Creek. I brought in some of the driveshaft parts and the original U joints. Before I could even begin to explain what I was looking for, he read out all of the part numbers I would need. I knew I was at the right place. I told him how many of each I needed and after a few minutes he came from the back with everything in stock. This was also the same shop that rebuilt my clutch and pressure plate.

I’ve included all of the boxes with the interesting bits layed out for future reference.

[David Herbert]

Don't you just love standardisation ! You couldn't do that with a British vehicle !

David

[Jordan Baker]

The transfer case is now all mounted. It proved to be quite the job in getting it all lined up and installed. Now that it’s out of the way I started taking the wheels off. All but one came off. The last one has proven to be incredibly stubborn.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

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Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

The transfer case is now all mounted. It proved to be quite the job in getting it all lined up and installed. Now that it’s out of the way I started taking the wheels off. All but one came off. The last one has proven to be incredibly stubborn.

Brake drum issue? See if there's any way to retract the (probably stuck) brake shoes. I've wrestled with your problem more than once. Oh, and don't drop the whole thing on your head seeing as three quarters of it is supported on axle stands (if it was me I'd put the other three wheels back on before going aggressive on the last one).

[Grant Bowker]

I'm not clear which removal is causing trouble.

Wheel from drum/ hub? Confirm someone in past hasn't switched a left side / left hand thread to the right side or vice versa so the threads operate in reverse - tighten when you would expect loosening?

Separating the wheel half sections to remove the tire? Does keeping the old tire matter to you (it looks well weathered...)? Lots of heat on the nuts and a serious impact wrench (but be aware that too much heat can cause pyrolysis - spontaneous, uncontrolled heat/explosion of the tire)? Chainsaw the tire off the rim and then fight the wire beads off the individual rim sections?

Drum/hub from axle? Maybe undo the lower adjusters and let them move into the drum and relax the shoes? BFH? Check for a seized parking brake cable?

[Jordan Baker]

Just trying to get the wheel rim off of the drum. Im not quite at the stage of taking the drums off.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

Chainsaw the tire off the rim

That's a thing???? I've considered a sawsall but a chainsaw? Would it cut through the rubber or just buck back into your face??? Tell me it works and I'll give it a go. My tire guy doesn't want to talk to me any more about CMP tires.