Info needed: for a 13-3-53 CDN Jeep

[Bob Carriere]

will need to do in two postings.

[Bob Carriere]

Would appreciate comments on the ID tag...

...........thanks for all your help guys.

Next Wednesday we operate!!!!!

[Owen Evans]

The carb is a Carter YS950S; standard fitting for the M38A1.

Owen.

[rob love]

In your photo "input line to fuel pump", the line you show is actually part of the vacuum system. The bottom half of the pump is for vacuum. The fuel pump is the upper half of the pump. It looks like yours has a heavy rubber line feeding the fuel in. That is a good candidate for a fuel filter as it will catch the crud before it goes into the little check valves of the pump, causing it to just idle rather than pump. The crud is usually minute rust particles from the tank.

The ring on the spring was added as part of a kit for air transport. It provided about a dozen rings on the frame, springs and bumpers to allow tie down on the aircraft pallets.

Re the 2 screws on the distributor, there was usually more than two and less than six. Personally, I prefer the higher end of that range, but when you are trying to diagnose an ignition problem at the side of the road, and the sharp little fording cable (among other things, including frayed ignition wires) have repeatedly poked through your skin, drawing blood, one can lower one's standards a little. You will find those screws need a couple different screwdrivers to install due to the awkward angles. And if you think working on a 53 is tough, wait until you work on the later ones with the big honking heater and tray blocking your access.

The grey paint on the engine, right over the grease and dirct accumulations, is the sign of a poor man's overhaul. We used to have another name for that kind of rebuild, but it is no longer politically correct. In fact, I doubt it ever was.

[Wayne Hingley]

Hi Bob. I agree with your note on the photo of the oil pump. Taking a couple of minutes to drop that section of exhaust pipe from the manifold to the first bolted flange by the master cylinder, will give you some much needed space for your hands and tools when removing and installing the pump.

If you don't already have it, below is a clip from the manual. Paragraph E-92 may be of interest. You can install the oil pump without removing the distributor, but getting the pump gear to slide up and mesh on the camshaft in the right position can sometimes take a couple of tries and a bit of patience (and holding your tongue in the right position ). If you are able to reference the position of the slot when you remove the pump, it will help to index it to the right position when re-installing.

[Bob Carriere]

Jeep is running on 5 pounds oil pressure once warmed up and idling, goes up to 20 pounds once you blip the throttle.

Here is what Grant and I did.....

We replaced the old cracked flex line with a steel line custom shaped between the block and the oil filter....

Managed to puncture the radiator tank with the fan blade( not much support on the rillonce the fenders are removed..... got it soldered and reinstalled with new coolant and a new bottom rad hose.

Removed the oil pressure sender and replaced with a mechanical gauge which is much more accurate ........ now showing 5 pounds idling when hot 20+ when throttle if blipped.

Owner wants to drive it for a while and monitor the oil pressure gauge. To facilitate that we will permanently install a mechanical oil pressure gauge which seems more sensitive and accurate,

Based on the light Blue smoke and low pressure the engine is probably due for a rebuild as a Winter project...... meanwhile he can enjoy it giving rides to the grandson or go to town for an ice cream cone.

We still have to replaced the short flex fuel line to the pump which has become very spongy.

As a Winter project in a small heated garage the wiring harness may also be tackled.

So we had fun......and possibly more fun to come.

Thanks for all you help guys

[rob love]

Five and twenty hot is still serviceable.

Ideally, compression should be around 120. It will still give OK service to around 110. By 90 it will be impossible to start in the fall without ether and will use plenty of oil. The pistons have a lot of travel, and scored up bores is the norm on those engines.