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  #1  
Old 06-06-18, 05:29
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Posts: 7,595
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In my limited experience, the F-head engine gave about 15000 to 20,000 good miles, followed by about 15,000 bad miles and then you replaced the engine. I was going to suggest a mechanical gauge, but I see you've already figured that out.

One of the weaknesses of the Jeep blocks is that there is only one replaceable bearing for the cam. The remainder of the cam supports are the block itself, which means any wear in that location will not be fixed by merely turning the crank, new bearings, and replacing the one cam bearing.

That said, oil pressure is highly overrated. I worked on one engine recently where the owner had the motor rebuilt, but could get no real oil pressure reading. They changed the sending unit, then changed the gauge, then changed the sending unit....

Anyway, going along on the highway, the engine suddenly seized up solid. When I tor it down, I found that the re-builder had neglected to put the front oil nozzle back in (sprays oil against the timing gears), thus leaving a 3/8 hole wide open on the main oil gallery. And yet, the engine had survived several years like that.

If it does come to a teardown, they are a great little engine to work on. I used to do them in my basement back in the old days. The problem was getting the finished product back up the stairs.

The fuel line does indeed run across the front of the engine, then up and across to the carb. My guess is it keeps the line away form the exhaust manifold. Personally, I have never had an issue with vapour lock on the Jeeps. Best place for the filter is down at the frame before the fuel pump.
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  #2  
Old 07-06-18, 02:26
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
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Default Good tip......

Thanks Rob.

We have a spare 24v sending unit as well as a mechanical oil guage to start with...... then we will tackle the pump replacement.

At 61K on the clock, assuming it is the original block, it may be tired.

Thanks for the tips.....will post results.

Bob C
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C15a Cab 11
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  #3  
Old 07-06-18, 06:00
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Posts: 7,595
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The serial number for the block should be on top of the water pump on a little flat surface there. If it is a military engine, it should start with MD
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  #4  
Old 08-06-18, 04:13
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
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Default No numbers.....

...area is smooth as a baby's bottom.... will try removing the grey paint but doubt there are any indentation/numbers...... which would mean?????

Will be tackling the pump, leaking oil line and a mechanical gauge next Wed.

The owner will prep. the patient by jacking up on stands, removing the fender and front tire..... then we get dirty!!!!

need to work on the photos we have taken today.

Cheers
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C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada
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  #5  
Old 08-06-18, 04:34
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Posts: 7,595
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No numbers means a replacement block, most likely post service.
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  #6  
Old 09-06-18, 05:20
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
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Default Here comes the pictures and questions.....

will need to do in two postings.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg dDSC07176edit.jpg (599.9 KB, 1 views)
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B
C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada
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  #7  
Old 09-06-18, 05:22
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hammond, Ontario
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Default Part two......

Would appreciate comments on the ID tag...

...........thanks for all your help guys.

Next Wednesday we operate!!!!!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg lastDSC07167edit.jpg (387.8 KB, 7 views)
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File Type: jpg eDSC07178edit.jpg (959.7 KB, 1 views)
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B
C15a Cab 11
Hammond, Ontario
Canada
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