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Righto Chaps,
Im sure this has been discussed before but want to reignite it as a topic. Side curtains on the 11/12 Cabs must have had support rods in them that go into the little die cast holders at each end of the top of the door. Does any one have pictures or know what they look like? My way of thinking is they must be similar to Model T or A curtain rods. Any ideas gentlemen??
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
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In all my years I have never seen a complete set of curtain rods.
I have seen pieces and know that they are partly round and flattened towards the end section............. would any one have a set to provide an actual tracing that we could scale up or down onthe computer...???? The door opening is laready ackward enough that many were dispensed with in field conditions ie North Africa.....in Canada in many historical parade square pictures they seem to prefver them tied back against the cargo box.......... and get in and out like a jeep........ I believe the same happened to the canvas side curtains.... the cargo box toe board and sometimes the bonnet or hood cover. Luck would have it, I got a set of originals NOS curtains from Dirk years ago and fully intend to reproduce a set for my vehicle and keep the original for reference as the plastic window section is all yellow and brittle. In reality they were not very useful and more cumbersome than we can imagine. In Canada they did use them but the Winter driving weather was a great motivation. Bob C
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#4
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Hi,
Here's a link to my C8 restoration thread that has a lot of submitted info on the cab 11/12 door curtains. Read post #346 on down.. http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...=11657&page=12 Hope this helps in some way. Thanks, David |
#5
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Thanks Hanno, David, Tony, Grant........ just spent the last hour reading the old postings....some of which I did not remember. Unfortunately some pictures have been lost for not using the MLU forum for posting....... something to be re-enforced with all the MLU members.
Rekindled a lot of old interest in the doors. That many years ago I rellied entirely on MLU for archives...... now I download all relevant text and pictures of interest directly into my CMP files....... so I went back and saved all the old postings into my archives. Some how there were a lot more "how to" postings years ago then today. We have no reasons with the facilities of the digital camera...... It seems that everything we did was documented and written about..... I know we did a lot of wrok in the Barn this Winter that barely got posted....shame on me. New committment ....I will!!!!! Finally got the truck back on the road today after sleeping in the sea can since New Years day. Started without a glinch and brake pedal still very good....... the old M37 needed a brake job every Spring. I drove it for about 40 miles in the last two days........ and the brakes are lower ad could use and adjustment and possibly bleeding, engine oil is still dripping and the paint on one gas tank has peeled from gasoline spillage. It is now resting on a cardboard coverd floor of the barn where I will stretch out and check every nuts and bolts..... look for new leaks, check all fluid levels, etc. Even got a new LED trouble light of the occasion. Engine oil leak is now causing the 3rd and 4th gear to slip when shifting. First step will be to remove the bottom sheet metal tray and spray as much "brake cleaner" cans as I can.... blow it dry and road test. Step two..... the more permanent fix.......... remove the short drive shaft suing a propane torch to heat up the U joint bolts that were Loctite....... ....remove the inside engine cover to access the tranny from above and use the opportunity that without a roof I can easily lower the tranny in a sling from the overhead crane. This will be an opportunity to install the ceramic felt insulation I recently purchased. ....disconnect all the linkages, Ebrake, 4x4 levers, etc. drain the tranny, and remove the tranny from the bellhousing. Remove the clutch pack and examine for oil contamination..... may need to replace the dis cif saturated with oil.... remove the bell housing and inspect the rear main seal. My seal came from a regular complete gasket set.....apparently there are some aftermarket neoprene that are higly recommended on Stovebolt...... That implies draining the engine oil. removing the oil pan...... raising the truck from the front with the overhead crane to allow the axle to droop to the lower point allowed by the springs....... block every thing in place with multi engine stand..... that should give me enough clearance to access the engines crank/bearings above the front axle....... or I remove the engine from the frame by fist removing the cab and all its wiring....... or remove the front axle as a total assembly by just disconnecting and rolling it out form under the truck. In any event the crank as to be loosened..... the rear main removed and the new seal installed. The reverse all of the above and the job is done. If it still leaks... I will by more oil!!!! ....and I will document every frustrating steps on camera. Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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