How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

Had the pin that holds the cam shaft gear on started to loosen? Had the one on my Pat 13 C60S shear while diving, which lead to lots of popping and banging as I rolled to a stop on the verge of the road, repaired with a rolled pin from local hardware store.

The hole in the shaft was egged out. Had to find/make a tapered ream to use a tapered pin the gear and gear as permanent repair. Since then have checked every distributor I get for looseness, so far two more have turned up that were loose.

Nice job on cleaning and restoring the next part of your engine rebuild. Waiting for the first run video.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

The gear was very slightly loose on the shaft. The pin looked good from the outside. I filed off the stamped end of the pin. I then tried to press it out with no luck. So I set it up in the drill press and drilled it almost all the way using a slightly smaller diameter bit. Then I used a punch and knocked it out.

[Jordan Baker]

Picked up the rebuilt original heavy duty pressure plate, reground flywheel and new clutch plate today from the shop.

[Jordan Baker]

Has it really been since late April that I’ve worked on the truck? I guess so. It’s been a rather busy spring here doing all new gardens at the house. I’ve also been busy making a mini fire truck bed frame racer for a charity event coming up this weekend. Thankfully the build is finished and that project is out of the shop. Now back to CMP’ing.

Today I’ve been working on taking apart my transfer case. So far everything has come apart easily and the insides are very clean. I think I’ll just have to replace some of he bearing cones as a few rollers have some pitting. The bearing cups look good. One question is can I press them out to sandblast the case then press hem back in again? Or would I be better leaving them in and just taping them off?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

Whenever you replace a bearing, be wise, and get a new matching bearing race.

You really do not need to sandblast the inside but if you do you must make sure that all the grits gets washed out which means removing all the cones, identify where they go and it's matching bearing....... same applies to all the shims...keep them sorted by location in a zip lock bag.

When I did mine I replaced all bearings and race and used Speedy Sleeves on the worn yokes with new seals. Once the bare inside was sandblasted I degreaser, acid washed and sealed the castings inside and out with POR 15. Did the same for the tranny and the bell housing. Overkill I know!!!!

GBS should be able to find you all the bearings, race and Speedy Sleeves if not by part number by size....ID...OD.... height.

The joke around the barn is that I took my t case apart and reassembled it seven times before I was happy with all the preload on the bearings....... the seventh time I had taken apart a separate t case just to make sure I had everything in the right order......... runs fine now....... hey what else can you do during the cold Winter months.

Enjoy

GBS

[Bob Carriere]

Consider using your engine stand when working on the tcase...... being able to turn it around and over makes it easier.

[Jordan Baker]

Just ordered all new bearing cups and cones. I should have them sometime next week.

Bob, when you say you used Speedy Sleeves, did they replace the original leather seals? Do you have part numbers? I was checking the shafts and they have a visible worn spot where they would seal on the leather. I presume this is what the speedy sleeves would fix?

As for using the engine stand....I thought about that but my engine is still mounted to it. With the transfer case in my bench I find it handy enough, especially when I drop something it only falls a few inches to the table top.

[Bob Carriere]

The Speedy sleeve is a very thin piece of sheet metal that will slide over the scored area of your yokes and insure that the new neoprene sealing surface is not worn down in the first 5 miles. They include instructions for installation ...usually using red locktite.

You need to measure the exact diam. of the yoke for GBS...... I usually run the yoke on a lathe and with a very fine file polish any raised burrs that may be present.... it leaves you with a clean surface and leaves the missing metal rut exposed. The sleeve is pushed on ONCE with locktite and it will fill the rutted gap....sleeves are only a few thousand thick and provide a slick surface for the seal to rub against. They are expensive but cheaper than having a machinist weld and resurface the yoke to spec.

Good luck!!!!

Do a quick search on SKF speedy sleeves for pictures of the cup used for installing and how the extra is peeled off.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

Bob, when you say you used Speedy Sleeves, did they replace the original leather seals? Do you have part numbers? I was checking the shafts and they have a visible worn spot where they would seal on the leather. I presume this is what the speedy sleeves would fix?

Hello Jordan,

If you go to http://www.skf.com/group/products/se...eve/index.html, one can read everything there is to know about Speedi-Sleeves, Choosing the right size and Installing and Removing SKF Speedi-Sleeve.

HTH,
Hanno

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Consider using your engine stand when working on the tcase...... being able to turn it around and over makes it easier.

Hi Jordan


As Bob suggest makes life lot easier.


Transfer on stand.jpg


Really take your time on shimming the gears and follow the manual, if not you may be pulling it because it whines. The problem I had was that my replacement gaskets were not the same thickness as the original gasket.


Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

I just spent sometime power washing most of the transfer case housing parts. They spent a night in some parts cleaner to try and loosen up the gunk. Next up is taking part the de clutch housing. I’m thinking a new seal is in order by the amount of grease and gunk visible on the outside.