How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

Someplace I have a pair of photos of the transmission and the forks in the neutral possition to make life easier when reassembling transmission keep a copy of it in my manual in the shop. Will try and find and post.

To install the detent balls I just took a short lenght of wooden dowel with a notch in the end to hold the ball in the fork while pushing the shaft in. The little dowel is tagged and lives in my odd tool drawer along with all those other tools you need for working on CMPs.

On my transmissions on the front flange there are little metal links, two bolts to link, with tabs to keep the cab bolts from working loose. Once found a box of them at a flea market, on the rear seal plate the edge of the is bent to lock the bolts. When using pressed in seals with out the plate I just used Locktight. Though I guess failing the seal and plate type, one could just cut a flat plate out of light steel and drill it for the holes so that you bend the endge up to capture the bolts.

Really enjoying your progess reports, keeps my mind fresh on working on CMPs during those times when none of my trucks need work.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

Took the past day to rebuild the distributor. I ended up taking it fully apart and cleaning up all the bits. I found a lot of very old dried up grease inside the housing that needed to be scrapped out. The body got a quick blast in the blasting cabinet removing all the old flaking paint and rust. I painted the body with some semi gloss black and then began reinstalling everything. I’m planning on using a spring pin to secure the drive gear to the shaft once I can get to the store.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

Had the pin that holds the cam shaft gear on started to loosen? Had the one on my Pat 13 C60S shear while diving, which lead to lots of popping and banging as I rolled to a stop on the verge of the road, repaired with a rolled pin from local hardware store.

The hole in the shaft was egged out. Had to find/make a tapered ream to use a tapered pin the gear and gear as permanent repair. Since then have checked every distributor I get for looseness, so far two more have turned up that were loose.

Nice job on cleaning and restoring the next part of your engine rebuild. Waiting for the first run video.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

The gear was very slightly loose on the shaft. The pin looked good from the outside. I filed off the stamped end of the pin. I then tried to press it out with no luck. So I set it up in the drill press and drilled it almost all the way using a slightly smaller diameter bit. Then I used a punch and knocked it out.

[Jordan Baker]

Picked up the rebuilt original heavy duty pressure plate, reground flywheel and new clutch plate today from the shop.

[Jordan Baker]

Has it really been since late April that I’ve worked on the truck? I guess so. It’s been a rather busy spring here doing all new gardens at the house. I’ve also been busy making a mini fire truck bed frame racer for a charity event coming up this weekend. Thankfully the build is finished and that project is out of the shop. Now back to CMP’ing.

Today I’ve been working on taking apart my transfer case. So far everything has come apart easily and the insides are very clean. I think I’ll just have to replace some of he bearing cones as a few rollers have some pitting. The bearing cups look good. One question is can I press them out to sandblast the case then press hem back in again? Or would I be better leaving them in and just taping them off?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

Whenever you replace a bearing, be wise, and get a new matching bearing race.

You really do not need to sandblast the inside but if you do you must make sure that all the grits gets washed out which means removing all the cones, identify where they go and it's matching bearing....... same applies to all the shims...keep them sorted by location in a zip lock bag.

When I did mine I replaced all bearings and race and used Speedy Sleeves on the worn yokes with new seals. Once the bare inside was sandblasted I degreaser, acid washed and sealed the castings inside and out with POR 15. Did the same for the tranny and the bell housing. Overkill I know!!!!

GBS should be able to find you all the bearings, race and Speedy Sleeves if not by part number by size....ID...OD.... height.

The joke around the barn is that I took my t case apart and reassembled it seven times before I was happy with all the preload on the bearings....... the seventh time I had taken apart a separate t case just to make sure I had everything in the right order......... runs fine now....... hey what else can you do during the cold Winter months.

Enjoy

GBS

[Bob Carriere]

Consider using your engine stand when working on the tcase...... being able to turn it around and over makes it easier.